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"SPC camber arm fix"

Originally Posted by Baer383 Go to the link in the post up top and it will bring you to the page with plenty of pics that will answer your questions.

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Old 01-02-2013, 02:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Baer383 View Post
Go to the link in the post up top and it will bring you to the page with plenty of pics that will answer your questions.
Good deal. Lots of room.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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looks great, after hearing people having problems, I don't even know what mine are torqued at but took 2 of us and a big *** wrench to tighten them as hard as we could and so far 20 track days+ haven't slipped yet!!! If it slips, I'll do something similar to this thanks!
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Nice work.

Just a thought though coming from superbike racing and having to safety wire everything!!...couldn't you tap two holes in the plate where the tubes are welded, insert two bolts, drill the main nut of the ball joint and the two new bolts and safety wire it twice? Plus at 150ft lbs, should be good to go and a lot easier for guys without welders and your skill.

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Old 06-27-2013, 07:29 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Nice work.

Just a thought though coming from superbike racing and having to safety wire everything!!...couldn't you tap two holes in the plate where the tubes are welded, insert two bolts, drill the main nut of the ball joint and the two new bolts and safety wire it twice? Plus at 150ft lbs, should be good to go and a lot easier for guys without welders and your skill.
It is really not necessary to do that SPC recommends the nut be tightened to 120 ft lb by tighten it to 150 lb pretty much gets rid of the problem but by adding the extra metal to stiffen it up plus welding a collar and threading a bolt (with lock nuts) in there to put some extra pressure up against the back of the ball joint is plenty of security to keep it from moving.

Mine haven't moved so far.
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