My Alignment specs - Please Help
 

The guys at a local alignment shop put my car on the alignment rack and the tech printed the sheet took it to the owner and they started convincing me I need control arms, he said "damn man since your lowered you have almost 3 degrees camber!!!" I can fix your toe but its going to be useless. I told him that i thought the rear had factory adjustment's to take out a bit of camber and he totally ignored my response and said trust me man we know what we are doing ill call you on Wednesday you need those parts...

My camber is a bit more that what i should have I think 2 degrees would be perfect...and my toe i want 0 front and as little as possible in the rear... Opinions?

ALSO, I plan on getting thicker tires for my next set, I wont screw up my alignment specs if i get a different size tire right?

I'm sub'd... I'm sure you'll get the help you need on this thread.

My rear camber was -2.8 until I got rear camber arms and toe bolts installed. Now I am at -1.2 and 0 toe. The tire wear will be excessive at -2.8 and you should get the rear camber and toe parts sooner rather than later.... :twocents:

The front should be adjustable to about -1.6 each with factory components

EDIT: My apologies. What I meant to say is that the front should be about -1.6 with the drop with the factory settings. You do indeed need front camber arms to adjust. Your alignment specs indicate a serious issue with the front drivers side camber...

So the front is adjustable factory? I think not, maybe im wrong but everyone has told me front isnt and the rear is,,,

Now I'm sub'd

Front is not camber adjustable without camber kit.

The rear is camber adjustable but if you lower it more than about an inch you will not be able to get back to max spec of -2 without camber kit.

First and foremost, the camber on the front is NOT adjustable.

To the OP, yes you need to get some after market adjustable suspension. Your front camber is way off from side to side. Not sure why so much. The toe on the front is adjustable all the way and the guy at the shop should of at least got that corrected for you. It wouldn't of been useless while you were there until you get some control arms.

The rear camber and toe can be adjusted a little but probably not to spec. You really never know. That's why it just best to get a hole kit anytime you lower a car. If you get tires it's always best to get another alignment to make sure everything is correct.

I just noticed you posted your specs... I bet your front struts are bent


I had almost the same issue on my Maxima and they replaced the front struts under warranty and the alignment was perfect

You'll need a camber kit for both front and back Vick. Otherwise you'll keep on balding your tires out. Also, Spohn is right, your toe should have been fixed by your guy.

You won't need a camber kit for the rear, just get a set of adjustable upper control arms for the front. I had even tire wear on my sport. I am a little heavy in the throttle and got 21 out of my rears but my fronts are good for atleast 30k. My front is at what your front left is. -.7 with almost NO TOE. Remember, toe scrubs the tires as you are going down the road. Unless you are tracking your car DAILY you want to minimilize the amount of toe you have. As for the rear, a little toe out is ok due to the amount of acceleration that your car has it will flex your drivetrain in causing the tires to naturally toe in, so a little out is ok. the camber i have at -1.8 and had fairly even tire wear. I have kinetix front arms on my car.

OP, I started a thread regarding my recent drop on Tein in the Nismo section and have received some good feedback as well. http://www.the370z.com/nismo-370z/64...m-spacers.html

hmmmm. I am exactly of the opposite opinion.... You don't need front camber arms, but you will need rear arms to correct abnormal wear and tear on your lowered car's tires. The fronts will sit nice and pretty at -1.6 with a drop which will help with handling immensely. Turn in is much more precise now. The rears will wear excessively with -2.8 camber and i know, mine only lasted 17,000 km's. I went to 305's and the camber was even more pronounced... I had to get rear camber arms and toe bolts immediately. if you get the camber arms, get the toe bolts. They are required to adjust the toe past the stock camber limits.

Some of you have no clue to what your talking about. Look at the OP's specs and he already is lowered on springs.

Front: He needs adjustable upper control arms for the front is not adjustable from the OEM equipment. His camber is at -.07 FL and -2.0 FR. So why would anyone think he doesn't need his camber adjusted up front? Hmmmm! I'm not even sure why is off so bad from side to side but he needs it corrected so it can be the same and the OP can set the proper camber for tire life or handling, which ever he prefers. The toe CAN be adjust as much as needed via inner tie rods which needs to be 0 in the front.


Rear: Once again pending what the OP's wants such as tire life or handling the rear MAY be adjusted back using the OEM adjustments. Toe is not that far off but camber is (unless you want to run that much). The OEM only allows SO MUCH but considering the cost of a after market rear kit you might as well buy one. It will save you in the long run.

I skimmed over the part where it said he was lowered.....lol my bad.

He didn't really say. I just looked in his sig. Plus I figured that's why he was getting an alignment.