My Alignment specs - Please Help

wheee! · 12-31-2012, 05:12 PM

Whatever he decides on the rear is his choice. He NEEDS to fix the front camber because that is NOT normal. With the lowering springs on he should be around -1.6 or so with no adjustment.
Why his camber is so far out, I don't know. It shouldn't NEED front camber arms after a drop unless he wants a custom setup or minimal front camber. Maybe a bad tech setup on the alignment rig. Once the issue there is sorted out, he can decide on whether or not he wants to go with a set of front and rear camber arms or not.

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee!

hmmmm. I am exactly of the opposite opinion.... You don't need front camber arms, but you will need rear arms to correct abnormal wear and tear on your lowered car's tires. The fronts will sit nice and pretty at -1.6 with a drop which will help with handling immensely. Turn in is much more precise now. The rears will wear excessively with -2.8 camber and i know, mine only lasted 17,000 km's. I went to 305's and the camber was even more pronounced... I had to get rear camber arms and toe bolts immediately. if you get the camber arms, get the toe bolts. They are required to adjust the toe past the stock camber limits.

Fact:front camber is non adjustable. That is why just about everyone tuat owns a Z has adjustable FRONT upper control arms. Spc, kinetix, spl.

Glokwork · 12-31-2012, 05:58 PM

After I added the swifts I had an alignment and maxed the factory rear camber out at -2.8. I later added rear camber arms and got it back to within spec at -1.6

wheee! · 12-31-2012, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

Fact:front camber is non adjustable. That is why just about everyone tuat owns a Z has adjustable FRONT upper control arms. Spc, kinetix, spl.

We have already determined that it is non-adjustable with stock components... what is your point?

My comment is that with normal stock components, a car with drop sits about -1.6 which IMHO is perfect for street use. No need for adjustable fronts unless you want a specific front camber.

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee!

My rear camber was -2.8 until I got rear camber arms and toe bolts installed. Now I am at -1.2 and 0 toe. The tire wear will be excessive at -2.8 and you should get the rear camber and toe parts sooner rather than later....

The front should be adjustable to about -1.6 each with factory components

EDIT: My apologies. What I meant to say is that the front should be about -1.6 with the drop with the factory settings. You do indeed need front camber arms to adjust. Your alignment specs indicate a serious issue with the front drivers side camber...

Read your post is my point. I was addressing his front tires mainly.

wheee! · 12-31-2012, 07:59 PM

Hence the EDIT:....

I think we are both trying to say basically the same thing. Let's not get all

SPOHN · 12-31-2012, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee!

Why his camber is so far out, I don't know. It shouldn't NEED front camber arms after a drop unless he wants a custom setup or minimal front camber. Maybe a bad tech setup on the alignment rig.

Or bad install. Maybe the spring isn't in the right position.

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 10:15 PM

I chased camber gain for 2yrs when I lowered my stang. Apples and oranges but same concept. Thays why I prefer coilovers..

Wonka2581 · 12-31-2012, 10:41 PM

If I were him I would take the Z and get a second opinion from another shop

wheee! · 01-01-2013, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

I chased camber gain for 2yrs when I lowered my stang. Apples and oranges but same concept. Thays why I prefer coilovers..

Coilovers are definitely preferred. I went with the Swifts as an interim measure and found they did all I needed for now. I love the Swifts!

axmea? · 01-02-2013, 02:54 AM

Go to Valley Suspension for a 2nd opinion. Also, you still need a front camber kit. It will be good when you go through the canyons

FlawlessZ · 01-02-2013, 01:45 PM

Happy New Year guys and gals, I appreciate all your helpful responses. My apologies I haven't responded to this thread since Ive been so busy. Some of us have more experience than others and I completely understand that.

So, I haven't had time to go to a shop to get aligned until today. I am going to go to a better*shop later today at lunch time that should be able to help me get to specs I want. Talk to the guy over the phone and he said I can try my best to get everything close to factory spec and I stated that I don't mind having a little more camber at this point since I need tires in about 6 months anyhow (not happy with the tire sizes).

What I plan on telling him:

FRONT
0 Toe
As little camber as possible.

I know the camber is not* adjustable factory but if the machine didn't screw up (probably did) he will need to work on the front to get them properly aligned.

REAR
0 toe (maybe a little toe in)
-2 camber rear
(from what I have read the camber in the rear should adjust about another half degree)

Honestly is -2 degrees really that bad?
(I can just have my tires flip in 4 or 5 k miles during balance)

roy'sz · 01-02-2013, 01:52 PM

2 degrees will shred the inside of the tire. You want to shoot for -.7 or so if you can so that you have somewhat even tire wear. If you mic your tires you can actually track your tire wear and will find out if your driving characteristics calls for more (some people dive into corners harder or others drive slower which equals to different tire settings). IN THE REAR YOU SHOULD TRY TO SHOOT FOR A LITTLE BIT OF TOE OUT, so that when you accellerate it flexes in. You only need a little bit, and i mean a little bit!!! I don't remember you saying you have a adjustable front camber kit, if so which do you have?

FlawlessZ · 01-03-2013, 02:30 AM

OKAYYYYYYY!

Got it done today, don't have a sheet because they did it "the old school way". This is unfortunate because what they told me is pretty shocking. They got my front to about 1.5 camber which is "within factory specs". The rear went down to "about 2 degrees" , toe got "fully aligned to 0, not issue doing that".

TOMORROW, my buddy is gonna help me calculate my camber so I can actually have real numbers.

roy'sz · 01-03-2013, 03:37 AM

I wouldn't trust anybody that doesnt have a print out...IMHO. That way you can track your allignments for future concerns with tire wear.

12-31-2012, 05:12 PM	#16 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 57 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40182	Whatever he decides on the rear is his choice. He NEEDS to fix the front camber because that is NOT normal. With the lowering springs on he should be around -1.6 or so with no adjustment. Why his camber is so far out, I don't know. It shouldn't NEED front camber arms after a drop unless he wants a custom setup or minimal front camber. Maybe a bad tech setup on the alignment rig. Once the issue there is sorted out, he can decide on whether or not he wants to go with a set of front and rear camber arms or not. DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal

12-31-2012, 05:58 PM	#18 (permalink)
Glokwork A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 2,657 Drives: 11 370Z MB 6MT Rep Power: 22	After I added the swifts I had an alignment and maxed the factory rear camber out at -2.8. I later added rear camber arms and got it back to within spec at -1.6 __________________ Precision Turbo Tial Turbosmart Fast Intentions Seibon Prosport Advan AD08R HKS Hipermax IV Nismo Evo-R PW:JDM UpRev Pioneer Escort Volk CE28N Top Mount Single Turbo 551whp/482wtq@10psi

12-31-2012, 07:59 PM	#21 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 57 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40182	Hence the EDIT:.... I think we are both trying to say basically the same thing. Let's not get all __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal

12-31-2012, 10:41 PM	#24 (permalink)
Wonka2581 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 3,083 Drives: MY WIFE CRAZY.... Rep Power: 2611	If I were him I would take the Z and get a second opinion from another shop wheee! and DEpointfive0 like this.

01-02-2013, 02:54 AM	#26 (permalink)
axmea? A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,235 Drives: WELL ZED PW 6MT Rep Power: 53241	Go to Valley Suspension for a 2nd opinion. Also, you still need a front camber kit. It will be good when you go through the canyons __________________ >MyZ's Album< NISMO Convert/ECUTEK/Takeda CAI/F.I. HFC NR CB Carbon/F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler/4.08 Final Drive /Powertrix+Swifts/Hotchkis/SPL/Whiteline/TWM/Zoom Engineering/EVO-R/AeroJacket Vented CF Fenders + CF Spoiler/Avant Garde-WORK/NST/Morimoto Halo/STi Clear Lenses/Carbon Signal Automotive/RJM Performance/ZSpeed Clutch Flywheel CSC delete

12-31-2012, 10:15 PM	#23 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	I chased camber gain for 2yrs when I lowered my stang. Apples and oranges but same concept. Thays why I prefer coilovers..

01-02-2013, 01:45 PM	#27 (permalink)
FlawlessZ Track Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: SoCal 818 Posts: 595 Drives: 12 PW 6MT Rep Power: 14	Update Happy New Year guys and gals, I appreciate all your helpful responses. My apologies I haven't responded to this thread since Ive been so busy. Some of us have more experience than others and I completely understand that. So, I haven't had time to go to a shop to get aligned until today. I am going to go to a bettershop later today at lunch time that should be able to help me get to specs I want. Talk to the guy over the phone and he said I can try my best to get everything close to factory spec and I stated that I don't mind having a little more camber at this point since I need tires in about 6 months anyhow (not happy with the tire sizes). What I plan on telling him: FRONT 0 Toe As little camber as possible. I know the camber is not adjustable factory but if the machine didn't screw up (probably did) he will need to work on the front to get them properly aligned. REAR 0 toe (maybe a little toe in) -2 camber rear (from what I have read the camber in the rear should adjust about another half degree) Honestly is -2 degrees really that bad? (I can just have my tires flip in 4 or 5 k miles during balance) __________________ 2012 PW - 6MT \| Meisterschaft CBE w/ ECV \| EVO-R Front Lip \| Enkei SP3-RS JDM Wheels \| Sticky Hankook RS-3's \| Megan Racing Springs \| Hot Shift Knob \| JDM Brake/Fog Light

01-02-2013, 01:52 PM	#28 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	2 degrees will shred the inside of the tire. You want to shoot for -.7 or so if you can so that you have somewhat even tire wear. If you mic your tires you can actually track your tire wear and will find out if your driving characteristics calls for more (some people dive into corners harder or others drive slower which equals to different tire settings). IN THE REAR YOU SHOULD TRY TO SHOOT FOR A LITTLE BIT OF TOE OUT, so that when you accellerate it flexes in. You only need a little bit, and i mean a little bit!!! I don't remember you saying you have a adjustable front camber kit, if so which do you have?

01-03-2013, 02:30 AM	#29 (permalink)
FlawlessZ Track Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: SoCal 818 Posts: 595 Drives: 12 PW 6MT Rep Power: 14	OKAYYYYYYY! Got it done today, don't have a sheet because they did it "the old school way". This is unfortunate because what they told me is pretty shocking. They got my front to about 1.5 camber which is "within factory specs". The rear went down to "about 2 degrees" , toe got "fully aligned to 0, not issue doing that". TOMORROW, my buddy is gonna help me calculate my camber so I can actually have real numbers. __________________ 2012 PW - 6MT \| Meisterschaft CBE w/ ECV \| EVO-R Front Lip \| Enkei SP3-RS JDM Wheels \| Sticky Hankook RS-3's \| Megan Racing Springs \| Hot Shift Knob \| JDM Brake/Fog Light

01-03-2013, 03:37 AM	#30 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	I wouldn't trust anybody that doesnt have a print out...IMHO. That way you can track your allignments for future concerns with tire wear.

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