My Alignment specs - Please Help

FlawlessZ · 12-30-2012, 08:20 PM

The guys at a local alignment shop put my car on the alignment rack and the tech printed the sheet took it to the owner and they started convincing me I need control arms, he said "damn man since your lowered you have almost 3 degrees camber!!!" I can fix your toe but its going to be useless. I told him that i thought the rear had factory adjustment's to take out a bit of camber and he totally ignored my response and said trust me man we know what we are doing ill call you on Wednesday you need those parts...

My camber is a bit more that what i should have I think 2 degrees would be perfect...and my toe i want 0 front and as little as possible in the rear... Opinions?

ALSO, I plan on getting thicker tires for my next set, I wont screw up my alignment specs if i get a different size tire right?

Z-Girl 12 · 12-30-2012, 08:36 PM

I'm sub'd... I'm sure you'll get the help you need on this thread.

wheee! · 12-30-2012, 08:38 PM

My rear camber was -2.8 until I got rear camber arms and toe bolts installed. Now I am at -1.2 and 0 toe. The tire wear will be excessive at -2.8 and you should get the rear camber and toe parts sooner rather than later....

The front should be adjustable to about -1.6 each with factory components

EDIT: My apologies. What I meant to say is that the front should be about -1.6 with the drop with the factory settings. You do indeed need front camber arms to adjust. Your alignment specs indicate a serious issue with the front drivers side camber...

FlawlessZ · 12-30-2012, 09:14 PM

So the front is adjustable factory? I think not, maybe im wrong but everyone has told me front isnt and the rear is,,,

DEpointfive0 · 12-30-2012, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlawlessZ

So the front is adjustable factory? I think not, maybe im wrong but everyone has told me front isnt and the rear is,,,

Now I'm sub'd

DR_ · 12-30-2012, 09:55 PM

Front is not camber adjustable without camber kit.

The rear is camber adjustable but if you lower it more than about an inch you will not be able to get back to max spec of -2 without camber kit.

SPOHN · 12-30-2012, 10:07 PM

First and foremost, the camber on the front is NOT adjustable.

To the OP, yes you need to get some after market adjustable suspension. Your front camber is way off from side to side. Not sure why so much. The toe on the front is adjustable all the way and the guy at the shop should of at least got that corrected for you. It wouldn't of been useless while you were there until you get some control arms.

The rear camber and toe can be adjusted a little but probably not to spec. You really never know. That's why it just best to get a hole kit anytime you lower a car. If you get tires it's always best to get another alignment to make sure everything is correct.

DEpointfive0 · 12-30-2012, 10:11 PM

I just noticed you posted your specs... I bet your front struts are bent

I had almost the same issue on my Maxima and they replaced the front struts under warranty and the alignment was perfect

axmea? · 12-31-2012, 12:09 AM

You'll need a camber kit for both front and back Vick. Otherwise you'll keep on balding your tires out. Also, Spohn is right, your toe should have been fixed by your guy.

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 01:28 AM

You won't need a camber kit for the rear, just get a set of adjustable upper control arms for the front. I had even tire wear on my sport. I am a little heavy in the throttle and got 21 out of my rears but my fronts are good for atleast 30k. My front is at what your front left is. -.7 with almost NO TOE. Remember, toe scrubs the tires as you are going down the road. Unless you are tracking your car DAILY you want to minimilize the amount of toe you have. As for the rear, a little toe out is ok due to the amount of acceleration that your car has it will flex your drivetrain in causing the tires to naturally toe in, so a little out is ok. the camber i have at -1.8 and had fairly even tire wear. I have kinetix front arms on my car.

Hotrodz · 12-31-2012, 09:40 AM

OP, I started a thread regarding my recent drop on Tein in the Nismo section and have received some good feedback as well. Tien S Tech Lowering Springs & H&R 15mm Spacers

wheee! · 12-31-2012, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

You won't need a camber kit for the rear, just get a set of adjustable upper control arms for the front. I had even tire wear on my sport. I am a little heavy in the throttle and got 21 out of my rears but my fronts are good for atleast 30k. My front is at what your front left is. -.7 with almost NO TOE. Remember, toe scrubs the tires as you are going down the road. Unless you are tracking your car DAILY you want to minimilize the amount of toe you have. As for the rear, a little toe out is ok due to the amount of acceleration that your car has it will flex your drivetrain in causing the tires to naturally toe in, so a little out is ok. the camber i have at -1.8 and had fairly even tire wear. I have kinetix front arms on my car.

hmmmm. I am exactly of the opposite opinion.... You don't need front camber arms, but you will need rear arms to correct abnormal wear and tear on your lowered car's tires. The fronts will sit nice and pretty at -1.6 with a drop which will help with handling immensely. Turn in is much more precise now. The rears will wear excessively with -2.8 camber and i know, mine only lasted 17,000 km's. I went to 305's and the camber was even more pronounced... I had to get rear camber arms and toe bolts immediately. if you get the camber arms, get the toe bolts. They are required to adjust the toe past the stock camber limits.

SPOHN · 12-31-2012, 04:33 PM

Some of you have no clue to what your talking about. Look at the OP's specs and he already is lowered on springs.

Front: He needs adjustable upper control arms for the front is not adjustable from the OEM equipment. His camber is at -.07 FL and -2.0 FR. So why would anyone think he doesn't need his camber adjusted up front? Hmmmm! I'm not even sure why is off so bad from side to side but he needs it corrected so it can be the same and the OP can set the proper camber for tire life or handling, which ever he prefers. The toe CAN be adjust as much as needed via inner tie rods which needs to be 0 in the front.

Rear: Once again pending what the OP's wants such as tire life or handling the rear MAY be adjusted back using the OEM adjustments. Toe is not that far off but camber is (unless you want to run that much). The OEM only allows SO MUCH but considering the cost of a after market rear kit you might as well buy one. It will save you in the long run.

roy'sz · 12-31-2012, 04:52 PM

I skimmed over the part where it said he was lowered.....lol my bad.

SPOHN · 12-31-2012, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

I skimmed over the part where it said he was lowered.....lol my bad.

He didn't really say. I just looked in his sig. Plus I figured that's why he was getting an alignment.

12-30-2012, 08:36 PM	#2 (permalink)
Z-Girl 12 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Florida Posts: 4,105 Drives: Spirited Rep Power: 11716	I'm sub'd... I'm sure you'll get the help you need on this thread. FlawlessZ likes this. __________________ 2012 Z-SOLD 2014 Nismo #565 Fast Intentions CBE/HFC/Swift/SPC/RJM/H&R-15/20mm/Z1 CAI/Headers/Intake Manifold w/Uprev Tune 328.31whp/263.64tq

12-30-2012, 08:38 PM	#3 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 57 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40182	My rear camber was -2.8 until I got rear camber arms and toe bolts installed. Now I am at -1.2 and 0 toe. The tire wear will be excessive at -2.8 and you should get the rear camber and toe parts sooner rather than later.... The front should be adjustable to about -1.6 each with factory components EDIT: My apologies. What I meant to say is that the front should be about -1.6 with the drop with the factory settings. You do indeed need front camber arms to adjust. Your alignment specs indicate a serious issue with the front drivers side camber... __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal Last edited by wheee!; 12-31-2012 at 12:35 AM.

12-30-2012, 09:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
FlawlessZ Track Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: SoCal 818 Posts: 595 Drives: 12 PW 6MT Rep Power: 14	So the front is adjustable factory? I think not, maybe im wrong but everyone has told me front isnt and the rear is,,, __________________ 2012 PW - 6MT \| Meisterschaft CBE w/ ECV \| EVO-R Front Lip \| Enkei SP3-RS JDM Wheels \| Sticky Hankook RS-3's \| Megan Racing Springs \| Hot Shift Knob \| JDM Brake/Fog Light

12-30-2012, 10:07 PM	#7 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	First and foremost, the camber on the front is NOT adjustable. To the OP, yes you need to get some after market adjustable suspension. Your front camber is way off from side to side. Not sure why so much. The toe on the front is adjustable all the way and the guy at the shop should of at least got that corrected for you. It wouldn't of been useless while you were there until you get some control arms. The rear camber and toe can be adjusted a little but probably not to spec. You really never know. That's why it just best to get a hole kit anytime you lower a car. If you get tires it's always best to get another alignment to make sure everything is correct. Trips and Baer383 like this. __________________

12-30-2012, 10:11 PM	#8 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 Premium Member Bitches Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17151	I just noticed you posted your specs... I bet your front struts are bent I had almost the same issue on my Maxima and they replaced the front struts under warranty and the alignment was perfect Benadrylz likes this. Last edited by DEpointfive0; 12-30-2012 at 10:16 PM.

12-30-2012, 09:55 PM	#6 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	Front is not camber adjustable without camber kit. The rear is camber adjustable but if you lower it more than about an inch you will not be able to get back to max spec of -2 without camber kit.

12-31-2012, 12:09 AM	#9 (permalink)
axmea? A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,235 Drives: WELL ZED PW 6MT Rep Power: 53241	You'll need a camber kit for both front and back Vick. Otherwise you'll keep on balding your tires out. Also, Spohn is right, your toe should have been fixed by your guy. DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ >MyZ's Album< NISMO Convert/ECUTEK/Takeda CAI/F.I. HFC NR CB Carbon/F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler/4.08 Final Drive /Powertrix+Swifts/Hotchkis/SPL/Whiteline/TWM/Zoom Engineering/EVO-R/AeroJacket Vented CF Fenders + CF Spoiler/Avant Garde-WORK/NST/Morimoto Halo/STi Clear Lenses/Carbon Signal Automotive/RJM Performance/ZSpeed Clutch Flywheel CSC delete

12-31-2012, 01:28 AM	#10 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	You won't need a camber kit for the rear, just get a set of adjustable upper control arms for the front. I had even tire wear on my sport. I am a little heavy in the throttle and got 21 out of my rears but my fronts are good for atleast 30k. My front is at what your front left is. -.7 with almost NO TOE. Remember, toe scrubs the tires as you are going down the road. Unless you are tracking your car DAILY you want to minimilize the amount of toe you have. As for the rear, a little toe out is ok due to the amount of acceleration that your car has it will flex your drivetrain in causing the tires to naturally toe in, so a little out is ok. the camber i have at -1.8 and had fairly even tire wear. I have kinetix front arms on my car.

12-31-2012, 09:40 AM	#11 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	OP, I started a thread regarding my recent drop on Tein in the Nismo section and have received some good feedback as well. Tien S Tech Lowering Springs & H&R 15mm Spacers __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

12-31-2012, 04:33 PM	#13 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Some of you have no clue to what your talking about. Look at the OP's specs and he already is lowered on springs. Front: He needs adjustable upper control arms for the front is not adjustable from the OEM equipment. His camber is at -.07 FL and -2.0 FR. So why would anyone think he doesn't need his camber adjusted up front? Hmmmm! I'm not even sure why is off so bad from side to side but he needs it corrected so it can be the same and the OP can set the proper camber for tire life or handling, which ever he prefers. The toe CAN be adjust as much as needed via inner tie rods which needs to be 0 in the front. Rear: Once again pending what the OP's wants such as tire life or handling the rear MAY be adjusted back using the OEM adjustments. Toe is not that far off but camber is (unless you want to run that much). The OEM only allows SO MUCH but considering the cost of a after market rear kit you might as well buy one. It will save you in the long run. gomer_110 likes this. __________________ Last edited by SPOHN; 12-31-2012 at 04:37 PM.

12-31-2012, 04:52 PM	#14 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	I skimmed over the part where it said he was lowered.....lol my bad.

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