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Whatever he decides on the rear is his choice. He NEEDS to fix the front camber because that is NOT normal. With the lowering springs on he should be around -1.6 or so with no adjustment.
Why his camber is so far out, I don't know. It shouldn't NEED front camber arms after a drop unless he wants a custom setup or minimal front camber. Maybe a bad tech setup on the alignment rig. Once the issue there is sorted out, he can decide on whether or not he wants to go with a set of front and rear camber arms or not. |
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After I added the swifts I had an alignment and maxed the factory rear camber out at -2.8. I later added rear camber arms and got it back to within spec at -1.6
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My comment is that with normal stock components, a car with drop sits about -1.6 which IMHO is perfect for street use. No need for adjustable fronts unless you want a specific front camber. |
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Hence the EDIT:....
I think we are both trying to say basically the same thing. Let's not get all :drama: :tup: |
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I chased camber gain for 2yrs when I lowered my stang. Apples and oranges but same concept. Thays why I prefer coilovers..
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If I were him I would take the Z and get a second opinion from another shop:tup:
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Go to Valley Suspension for a 2nd opinion. Also, you still need a front camber kit. It will be good when you go through the canyons :)
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Update
Happy New Year guys and gals, I appreciate all your helpful responses. My apologies I haven't responded to this thread since Ive been so busy. Some of us have more experience than others and I completely understand that.
So, I haven't had time to go to a shop to get aligned until today. I am going to go to a better*shop later today at lunch time that should be able to help me get to specs I want. Talk to the guy over the phone and he said I can try my best to get everything close to factory spec and I stated that I don't mind having a little more camber at this point since I need tires in about 6 months anyhow (not happy with the tire sizes). What I plan on telling him: FRONT 0 Toe As little camber as possible. I know the camber is not* adjustable factory but if the machine didn't screw up (probably did) he will need to work on the front to get them properly aligned. REAR 0 toe (maybe a little toe in) -2 camber rear (from what I have read the camber in the rear should adjust about another half degree) Honestly is -2 degrees really that bad? (I can just have my tires flip in 4 or 5 k miles during balance) |
2 degrees will shred the inside of the tire. You want to shoot for -.7 or so if you can so that you have somewhat even tire wear. If you mic your tires you can actually track your tire wear and will find out if your driving characteristics calls for more (some people dive into corners harder or others drive slower which equals to different tire settings). IN THE REAR YOU SHOULD TRY TO SHOOT FOR A LITTLE BIT OF TOE OUT, so that when you accellerate it flexes in. You only need a little bit, and i mean a little bit!!! I don't remember you saying you have a adjustable front camber kit, if so which do you have?
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OKAYYYYYYY!
Got it done today, don't have a sheet because they did it "the old school way". This is unfortunate because what they told me is pretty shocking. They got my front to about 1.5 camber which is "within factory specs". The rear went down to "about 2 degrees" , toe got "fully aligned to 0, not issue doing that". TOMORROW, my buddy is gonna help me calculate my camber so I can actually have real numbers. |
I wouldn't trust anybody that doesnt have a print out...IMHO. That way you can track your allignments for future concerns with tire wear.
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