Toe bolts with Swift springs?
 

I am not really liking the idea of grinding out the toe adjustments to get the bolts from the SPC kit to fit. Would the drop that the Swift spring offers NEED those toe bolts? I don't want to be replacing my tires all the time, so if I need them, I guess I need them.

I have no idea what you are talking about but I would like to lower my Z. Do I need to them as well?

If you want to get back to factory specs, then most likely yes

Yea, your gonna wanna go with the camber correction. I have yet to lower my G but I have other cars in the past. I tried to get away with no camber correction, just front, & just rear. Now I am at the point to where I know for a fact it isn't worth it. Especially if you run expensive tires/sticky tires. They will be gone in no time. To be honest the reason I haven't dropped is the camber correction kit is like 700.00 for both front and back. That's not including the springs; so its a bit out of budget for me atm.

Each situation is different with the Swifts. There are a lot of people who were able get back into stock specs without camber arms or toe bolts. This is discussed numerous times throughout the Swift review thread.;)

YMMV

I am on Swift springs and did not have to use toe bolts. I am using the factory toe adjustments. I do, however, have camber arms.

Yeah I am already doing the camber kit, I am ONLY asking about the toe bolts. Did you guys also modify (trim) the aluminum where the toe bolts go?

oh sorry, I guess I didnt read it entirely. Yea, no idea :tup:

I have coilovers, so I obviously had to use the toe bolts. I can say this though, I wouldn't be worried about elongating the aluminum. Its really not that big of a deal and it only took my mechanic like 10 minutes. In the long run it will be much better for your car and save you more money with geting the toe back in spec.

The rear sub frame where the toe bolts go is steel.:hello:

Is this easily dremeled out or what did you guys use?

After you put template up and scribe the line what no one has told you is you only have to enlongate the hole one way not both ways meaning you only have to get the bolt to get the car to toe in enlongate the hole to make it toe out is useless , I use a carbide grinding bit to remove the metal and you only have to remove a small amount.

I did not need the bolts but the toe was way out (lowered on swifts) when I got the Blue Z on an alignment rack. They were able to get back to spec with factory adjustments.

Correct. In my situation we only had to dremel out the right rear side. Furthermore, we only had to dremel it out toward the center of the car. Easy peasy.