Help Needed w/ Leaking Brake Line Fittings from SS Line Install

scruffydog

So I got a set of used Z1 Premium SS Brake Lines from a user and ready for the install.

As I was removing the old SS Tubes from the stock Line block, the hex fitting ceased up and the Box wrench slipped and rounded the hex leaving me unable to loosen up the fitting.
[IMG]hthttp://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo30/scruffykev/370Z/370z%20SS%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_2514.jpg[/IMG]


So I ended up using Vice grips (which was a stupid idea even though it got the job done of loosing up the hex fitting), I completely destroyed/mangled the fitting and now the hex fitting is leaking - I think I might have deformed the fitting. And it left a fat leak as I tried bleeding the brake using a power bleeder at 15 psi.



To temporary fix that particular fitting using some PTFE pipe tape wrap, but I'm still getting small leaks in the front Driver side:


I know I'm not supposed to fasten the crap out of these fittings as they are meant push up against the flared flange of the tube. I have ordered some new brake tube (where there fittings are destroyed):
46245-JK60B
46246-JK60B
46315-JL00A
46316-JA00A

In the meantime, I don't see any leak at 15 psi except small drips from Front Driver side. By the time I got done with bleeding the brake system, putting it down back on the ground, I depressed the brake many times and it's totally soft and went straight to the ground. I started the car, did the same thing, but still not really any leak I can find.

Any advise what's going on? Possibly a lot of air in the line? Should I be using these tools? What's the torque value? How do I torque these fittings? I'm scared as heck now to work on brake lines. I used to do all my brakes but this is the first time I had this much issues.

These are the tools I used:

Mike

those are the correct type of wrench, however, I like the ones I bought at NAPA which are thicker and not rounded on the edges, so they get a solid hold of the entire nut.

Tightness, I don't know a torque value, as you couldn't get a torque wrench on there anyways, but about a half a turn past full contact. Basically, when your hand at the base of the wrench can't turn it farther.

You may have mangled the brass junction box and might have to order new lines.

Once you do get it all butoned up and a firm pedal, Have someone check the lines with the brakes applied and engine running before you put the wheels back on. Under pressure will show any leaks much easier.

__________________
NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

scruffydog

Thanks Mike for the help.

I just did a quick Youtube search and found this:

HQ Holden Rebuild 5: Tip for brake line fittings - YouTube

I did exactly what this guy did with a Vice Grip to loosen it, but I should use CNC next time.

Thanks for the tip. I guess my car's brake lines are old enough where it's impossible to use a wrench to loosen.

I bought new Brake line Tubes with fittings, hopefully i won't have to buy new SS lines (Hose) due to a ruined thread in the junction box. The lines are coming in Thursday, I also bought 2 more bottles of brake fluid.

By looking at it, the thread seem to be fine. I think the fittings are really soft which is why they strip easily. I just hope they're softer than the Junction box material. (I dunno if that's the case b/c usually it's the other way around with screws).

scruffydog

These are the hard lines I got that should come with the pipe fittings:

Front:

Rear:

grant

According to the Service Manual, it is 12 Ft-Lbs (144 In-lbs)

Attached Files

BrakeLine-Torque.pdf (384.4 KB, 6 views)

Baer383

I always use a vise grip,properly installed then give it a quick smack with your hand is usually enough to get them loose ,plus there is no need to power bleed your brakes,fill the M/C loosen all 8 bleeders let it flow keep topping off the M/C so it doesn't run dry run about 1 quart thru it tighten all bleeders your done.
everybody always looks to machines to do it ,I have been bleeding my brakes this way for 20 years it works!!!

__________________
2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

scruffydog

thank you guys for the help. I will try to find a crowfoot to torque it down at 12 ft-lb. Hopefully this allow me to feel confident again doing brakes. I hate doing things by feel. I'm not sure if I may have over tighten the fittings which caused the leak or if it's because i used the vice grip too hard or if it got cross threaded. Either way, I have to wait till the new line comes in to see if that fixed the issue and the Z1 SS line junction box isn't crossthreaded as well.

I currently don't use a machine, I just have a motive power bleeder (straight pump instead of a vacuum gun).

I think there's still a leak in the system aside from the fact the pedals have no firmness. At this point I don't even think it's worth it for me to keep bleeding the system to "temporarily" fix it.

Unfortunately it's gonna rain tomorrow and I can't drive my car in as my usual backup I have to motorcycle to work.

Fishey

Torch

scruffydog

I'll give this a try tomorrow with the Crowfoot and my torque wrench and see if the theoretical 12 ft-lbf is sufficient.



I have a 10mm crowfoot adapters like this already:


Too bad I couldn't find any of the flared ones in Metric size:

scruffydog

I did this the other night and I accidentally hit forehead on the upper control arm when the fitting broke loose...now I have a small cut and a bruise on my forehead , clumsy me under frustration

Mike

I think the problem is dissimilar metals and corrosion. I had to use a small torch to heat one of my front calipers up to loosen the bleed screw the other day when flushing the fluid. I was so scared it was going to strip.

__________________
NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

scruffydog

Thanks for the tip. I totally forgot in order to replace the Brake line Tube, I now have to touch the Caliper fitting (another potential screw up). Hopefully with the new line it'll go in smoothly.

I should have totally taken this opportunity to Powdercoat my calipers, grrr.

scruffydog

I just want to say thanks for all the help everybody. I was able to replace the lines in the rear left and right. The fitting was completely mangled. I didn't use a torque wrench w/ crowfoot. It was just too much work.

Soft Pedal issue fixed:
Prior to replacing the brake tubes, I bled the system and was able to get the bubbles out from the Front Driver side. This was with PTFE tape sealing the fitting. - Long story short, it was just me not bleeding the brake system enough, didn't realized all the air bubbles got pushed to the front driver side.

Leaking Brake fittings:
I actually had 2 locations that was leaking. Rear Passenger side where the junction box connects to the metal hose. I temporarily used PTFE tape and did the trick but i didn't want to track with that as I'm afraid it'll leak. Plus the fitting was completely f-ed up. -- I replaced the line and it threaded on smoothly. Turns out the junction box was not cross threaded.

Then I also had a minor leak in the front passenger where the metal clip was at. For that issue, the fitting was simply not tight enough. I don't know if it's the stupid wrench I had, but it's sooo easy to strip the fitting. I ended up using vice grip to do 4 of the fittings. - it did the trick.

Baer383

I'm sure I read this some where.

Glad you got it fixed

__________________
2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

scruffydog

Thanks, yea...the new fittings from the new lines really made a difference. There weren't any corrosions which allowed it thread in easier.