Kinetix Front Upper Arm

roy'sz · 10-21-2012, 08:29 PM

So yesterday I installed the upper control arm myself, with the help of my wife, and got the car alligned. Front camber is at -.7 and toe at .08. on both sides. Everything seemed fine yesterday until today I left the driveway of my apartment and noticed a "popping" sound coming from the front of my car. I noticed it again when i was at the community plaza in riverside getting me some dinner. I went over the speed bumps and it became prominent that there is indeed something WRONG with the front end.

In conclusion I had to loosen the nuts from the coils in the front and actually pull them out about 5 or 6 in so that i could get the upper control arm bolts out. I put them back in and tightened them up as tight as i could get them and retightened the three nuts after I lowered the car back down. If anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated. Plus a rock hit my windshield and cracked it so i am just stellar !!!

ChrisSlicks · 10-21-2012, 08:39 PM

Check that there is no play in the control arm ball-joint. The ones in my SPC arms gave up in about 18 months, but with track driving that isn't entirely unexpected.

roy'sz · 10-21-2012, 09:05 PM

if there's play then it is bad? They are brand new....I'll check it out and we'll see

roy'sz · 10-22-2012, 01:07 AM

hey chris im goin to give you a +1 my man. I just went out there and lifted the car up and was able to wobble the upper control arm around. There is a JAM NUT on the bolt that goes into the upper control arm on this setup. Well when they did the alignment they didn't jam it. So when I went over speedbumps or rain gutters and dips I felt it. I think i'll write up a diy for the arms. That or people can find this thread.

ChrisSlicks · 10-22-2012, 12:16 PM

roy'sz · 10-23-2012, 03:24 AM

well I was changing freeways tonight on my way home from work and noticed that my car was extremely steady at high speed cornering. The greasable fittings on this arm sure does help compared to the stock arms that I had. Also can you believe that after 2 years that those bushings were already shot?

roy'sz · 10-28-2012, 07:06 PM

Ok chris, week later and still poping. I tightened down the jam nuts on my upper arms with a hammer and wrench. I checked the spindle to upperballjoint bolt as well and hammered down the upper control arm bolts. Afterwards I lowered car off of jackstands and retightened the finger bolts for struts. My car has slight popping under braki g and swirving together. Any more idead would be appreciated.

ChrisSlicks · 10-28-2012, 08:19 PM

I would say jack it up and see if you can detect any play in the ball joints by hand. You never know the quality of the ball joints used by these after market parts suppliers, could be crap from fresh out of the box.

roy'sz · 10-28-2012, 08:25 PM

I checked after tightening and no play. Possibly the bore for the bushing is too big causing slop?

Japanjay · 10-29-2012, 01:18 AM

How big are the bolt holes in the Kinetix's vs the bolt itself? If the bolt hole has too much gap, diameter vs bolt diameter, when the chassie flexs, especially going over severe inclines or speed bumps, what might be happening is it could be sliding. The pop is how hard and fast it goes from being tightened down and then very quickly sliding and slamming. When the chassie unbinds it slides back but not as forceful. If you take everything back apart inspect for a very very small shiney part, metal rubbed smooth from sliding in the smallest amount specifically right around the bolt holes. And the scuffing will be not circular from tightening down, but in a straight line.

Just an idea. Happend on my integra. Took a while for me to figure it out. Drove me bat **** crazy.

roy'sz · 10-30-2012, 03:33 AM

ALRIGHT PROBLEM SOLVED! I SOLD THE CAR...lol just kidding. NO really its solved. I called jason at Kinetix and explained to him the install I did and the whole step by step procedure on how I spent 2 weekends troubleshooting the car. It came down to possible dry upper balljoints or possibly a longer pipe that fits in the bushings. The technician that worked on my car at the dealership was awesome. I was able to go back in the garage and talk him through my installation and troubleshooting methods. He too had no idea after we elimated tie rod links, sway bar links and loose bolts. So he applied some teflon grease to the upper ball joints and I drove it in and out of work today. I loaded up the suspension when I got home cutting corners around the parking complex (1.am. no one is around) and I have absolutely no problems whatsoever. Thank you all for your help. That is what this site is exactly for.

10-21-2012, 08:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	Kinetix Front Upper Arm So yesterday I installed the upper control arm myself, with the help of my wife, and got the car alligned. Front camber is at -.7 and toe at .08. on both sides. Everything seemed fine yesterday until today I left the driveway of my apartment and noticed a "popping" sound coming from the front of my car. I noticed it again when i was at the community plaza in riverside getting me some dinner. I went over the speed bumps and it became prominent that there is indeed something WRONG with the front end. In conclusion I had to loosen the nuts from the coils in the front and actually pull them out about 5 or 6 in so that i could get the upper control arm bolts out. I put them back in and tightened them up as tight as i could get them and retightened the three nuts after I lowered the car back down. If anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated. Plus a rock hit my windshield and cracked it so i am just stellar !!!

10-21-2012, 08:39 PM	#2 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	Check that there is no play in the control arm ball-joint. The ones in my SPC arms gave up in about 18 months, but with track driving that isn't entirely unexpected. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

10-22-2012, 12:16 PM	#5 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	__________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

10-28-2012, 08:19 PM	#8 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	I would say jack it up and see if you can detect any play in the ball joints by hand. You never know the quality of the ball joints used by these after market parts suppliers, could be crap from fresh out of the box. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

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10-21-2012, 09:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	if there's play then it is bad? They are brand new....I'll check it out and we'll see

10-22-2012, 01:07 AM	#4 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	hey chris im goin to give you a +1 my man. I just went out there and lifted the car up and was able to wobble the upper control arm around. There is a JAM NUT on the bolt that goes into the upper control arm on this setup. Well when they did the alignment they didn't jam it. So when I went over speedbumps or rain gutters and dips I felt it. I think i'll write up a diy for the arms. That or people can find this thread.

10-23-2012, 03:24 AM	#6 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	well I was changing freeways tonight on my way home from work and noticed that my car was extremely steady at high speed cornering. The greasable fittings on this arm sure does help compared to the stock arms that I had. Also can you believe that after 2 years that those bushings were already shot?

10-28-2012, 07:06 PM	#7 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	Ok chris, week later and still poping. I tightened down the jam nuts on my upper arms with a hammer and wrench. I checked the spindle to upperballjoint bolt as well and hammered down the upper control arm bolts. Afterwards I lowered car off of jackstands and retightened the finger bolts for struts. My car has slight popping under braki g and swirving together. Any more idead would be appreciated.

10-28-2012, 08:25 PM	#9 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	I checked after tightening and no play. Possibly the bore for the bushing is too big causing slop?

10-29-2012, 01:18 AM	#10 (permalink)
Japanjay Track Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Puyallup Posts: 856 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z MB M6 Rep Power: 14	How big are the bolt holes in the Kinetix's vs the bolt itself? If the bolt hole has too much gap, diameter vs bolt diameter, when the chassie flexs, especially going over severe inclines or speed bumps, what might be happening is it could be sliding. The pop is how hard and fast it goes from being tightened down and then very quickly sliding and slamming. When the chassie unbinds it slides back but not as forceful. If you take everything back apart inspect for a very very small shiney part, metal rubbed smooth from sliding in the smallest amount specifically right around the bolt holes. And the scuffing will be not circular from tightening down, but in a straight line. Just an idea. Happend on my integra. Took a while for me to figure it out. Drove me bat **** crazy.

10-30-2012, 03:33 AM	#11 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	ALRIGHT PROBLEM SOLVED! I SOLD THE CAR...lol just kidding. NO really its solved. I called jason at Kinetix and explained to him the install I did and the whole step by step procedure on how I spent 2 weekends troubleshooting the car. It came down to possible dry upper balljoints or possibly a longer pipe that fits in the bushings. The technician that worked on my car at the dealership was awesome. I was able to go back in the garage and talk him through my installation and troubleshooting methods. He too had no idea after we elimated tie rod links, sway bar links and loose bolts. So he applied some teflon grease to the upper ball joints and I drove it in and out of work today. I loaded up the suspension when I got home cutting corners around the parking complex (1.am. no one is around) and I have absolutely no problems whatsoever. Thank you all for your help. That is what this site is exactly for.