Help me pick my Rotors and pad (Akebono stock replacement) + Motive Bleeder & fluid

Dzel · 04-22-2013, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert

Good thread. I only street drive my car. Pads are fine, Rotors warped for the third time in less that 20k miles. Nissan uses some **** Rotors, just sayin. Going with z1 slotted only.

You must be heating them up then running the car through a pond or something. I just did the brakes on my sister in laws Scion and she had about 50k miles on that set.

Joe@ZSpeed · 04-22-2013, 04:49 PM

Rotors hardly ever actually "warp"
If you are having repeated issues with the brakes shaking you need to make sure they are installed correctly, A rotor installed with just a few thousandths of run-out will quickly wear flat spots on the surface causing it to start shaking again in short time.

Basically if run-out is not checked and corrected when the rotor is installed it's not being done correctly and ANY rotor will do the same thing eventually.

Nissan rotors are actually pretty good and few aftermarkets compare to the quality.

Nut_N_Much · 04-22-2013, 09:09 PM

Probably already decided but this is what I was leaning towards.. High Carbon Blades from EBC..

EBC High Carbon Blade Brake Rotors | EBC Blade Rotors

Zoren 370 · 04-22-2013, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed

Rotors hardly ever actually "warp"
If you are having repeated issues with the brakes shaking you need to make sure they are installed correctly, A rotor installed with just a few thousandths of run-out will quickly wear flat spots on the surface causing it to start shaking again in short time.

Basically if run-out is not checked and corrected when the rotor is installed it's not being done correctly and ANY rotor will do the same thing eventually.

Nissan rotors are actually pretty good and few aftermarkets compare to the quality.

Sorry for not knowing...What's a run-out and when does it happens? Tnx

roy'sz · 04-22-2013, 11:40 PM

Run out is a measurement that is taken with a perfectly level table and a depth guage to determine the eveness that a rotor is machined to. In lamens terms to see if your rotor is true or is slightly wabbled. They are checked prior to shipping to parts stores.

ImportConvert · 05-09-2013, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dzel

You must be heating them up then running the car through a pond or something. I just did the brakes on my sister in laws Scion and she had about 50k miles on that set.

Nope. This car has been a PITA from day 1. Well, actually 10K miles. Next week it's going back to the dealership again. I just got the slotted Z1 rotors on it last week, and they shaved the brake pads because it was still shaking very noticeably. I'm replacing the pads now, 300 miles later, because I can feel, very slightly, that it's starting it up again and it can only get worse from here.

Stopping smoothly. My 1988 mustang 5.0 did it better.

ImportConvert · 05-09-2013, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed

Rotors hardly ever actually "warp"
If you are having repeated issues with the brakes shaking you need to make sure they are installed correctly, A rotor installed with just a few thousandths of run-out will quickly wear flat spots on the surface causing it to start shaking again in short time.

Basically if run-out is not checked and corrected when the rotor is installed it's not being done correctly and ANY rotor will do the same thing eventually.

Nissan rotors are actually pretty good and few aftermarkets compare to the quality.

They turned them twice. The third time I replaced them with the Z1 slotted per my above post. They wore in evenly as best I can see. Shaking again, ever so-slightly a few hundred miles later, now. I think it's the crappy pads and am replacing them, per my above post, again. They said they were glazed and shaved them and it made a huge difference, when they did the Z1 rotor install.

roy'sz · 05-09-2013, 12:18 PM

If yiur wheel is shaking the rotors are warped again

Joe@ZSpeed · 05-09-2013, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert

They turned them twice. The third time I replaced them with the Z1 slotted per my above post. They wore in evenly as best I can see. Shaking again, ever so-slightly a few hundred miles later, now. I think it's the crappy pads and am replacing them, per my above post, again. They said they were glazed and shaved them and it made a huge difference, when they did the Z1 rotor install.

Are they turning them with a "On-Car lathe" or off the car? They need to be turned with a ON-Car lathe to be perfectly true to the hub. Unless they are 0 run out when installed this is the only way to make the perfect and prevent future issues.

ImportConvert · 05-10-2013, 02:42 AM

None of my other cars ever needed any special nonsense. Just carry the rotors down town and have em turned. Worked fine every time. If this car needs supercar maintenance, it needs a lot more incentive for me to own it. I think its just pads, this time. Nissan apparently uses bad ones. Again, I'm used to American cars, so maybe this is an import thing. If this doesn't fix it, ill just deal with it, shaking wheel and all, but ill never buy another Nissan, that's for sure. This is the shittiest car I have ever owned that was less than a decade old, much less, new.

roy'sz · 05-10-2013, 09:15 AM

how can it be your pads if pads aren't a moving piece of machinery? pads are stationary and are going to wear at any angle because it is a softer material than rotors, thus re-proving my point that your rotors are slightly warped. If I were you, buy a new set of oem rotors and pads and install them yourself. Follow the torqueing procedures and try it out that way. If you shaved the pad it won't be a even seat on the rotor causing the brake pad to get hot, once it gets hot it could deposit more material onto the rotor causing a hard/hot spot causing it to warp. I have heard of this happening before, which is why I always buy new pads with new or turned rotors.

BigT · 05-10-2013, 02:02 PM

I would check all of the bushings in the suspension. The nosedive during braking might be pushing something out of wack. Also, have you checked your wheel balance?

Joe@ZSpeed · 05-10-2013, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert

None of my other cars ever needed any special nonsense. Just carry the rotors down town and have em turned. Worked fine every time. If this car needs supercar maintenance, it needs a lot more incentive for me to own it. I think its just pads, this time. Nissan apparently uses bad ones. Again, I'm used to American cars, so maybe this is an import thing. If this doesn't fix it, ill just deal with it, shaking wheel and all, but ill never buy another Nissan, that's for sure. This is the shittiest car I have ever owned that was less than a decade old, much less, new.

What other car have your had with 14" brakes? Bigger rotors amplify the amount of run-out they can have without shaking. Also our cars have stationary mounted calipers which makes it even worse.

Simply throwing a set of rotors on these cars doesn't work, It must be done correctly and should be done on any car. Hack shops that don't care is your issue, not the car. Find a good shop to do it right.

ImportConvert · 05-12-2013, 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed

What other car have your had with 14" brakes? Bigger rotors amplify the amount of run-out they can have without shaking. Also our cars have stationary mounted calipers which makes it even worse.

Simply throwing a set of rotors on these cars doesn't work, It must be done correctly and should be done on any car. Hack shops that don't care is your issue, not the car. Find a good shop to do it right.

My c6 z06.
I use gtr certified Nissan dealers and techs.
Shaving the pads made it much better. I'm still replacing them. The shake is coming back. Rotors are 500 miles old or less. Shook bad at mile zero, then shave pads and fixed, now starting to shake again. Pads definitely affect things.

ImportConvert · 05-12-2013, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigT

I would check all of the bushings in the suspension. The nosedive during braking might be pushing something out of wack. Also, have you checked your wheel balance?

It doesn't just happen under hard braking. Barely touching the pedal illicits the same shake as harder braking sometimes in my case. I seriously doubt its bushings.

04-22-2013, 04:49 PM	#32 (permalink)
Joe@ZSpeed A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,304 Drives: Nissan Rep Power: 342999	Rotors hardly ever actually "warp" If you are having repeated issues with the brakes shaking you need to make sure they are installed correctly, A rotor installed with just a few thousandths of run-out will quickly wear flat spots on the surface causing it to start shaking again in short time. Basically if run-out is not checked and corrected when the rotor is installed it's not being done correctly and ANY rotor will do the same thing eventually. Nissan rotors are actually pretty good and few aftermarkets compare to the quality. Dzel likes this. __________________ http://photos.zspeedperformance.com/...ardsize=468x60 Phone *937-506-7224* E-Mail Sales@Zspeed.com www.ZSPEED.com

04-22-2013, 09:09 PM	#33 (permalink)
Nut_N_Much A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Pensacola Florida Posts: 1,696 Drives: Awesome Car Rep Power: 26	Probably already decided but this is what I was leaning towards.. High Carbon Blades from EBC.. EBC High Carbon Blade Brake Rotors \| EBC Blade Rotors ETnismo likes this. __________________ Did new cool science stuff to the car !!! http://www.the370z.com/mazoc/99606-z...y-14-17-a.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...-w-videos.html

04-22-2013, 11:40 PM	#35 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	Run out is a measurement that is taken with a perfectly level table and a depth guage to determine the eveness that a rotor is machined to. In lamens terms to see if your rotor is true or is slightly wabbled. They are checked prior to shipping to parts stores. Zoren 370 likes this. __________________ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtvG...data_playerARK HFC'S-ARK Grip-Stillen G3-M370-UPREV-Kinetix upper control arm-WC Latheworks-Stage2 Bad@$$ Driver(318whp/268tq)-

05-09-2013, 12:18 PM	#38 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	If yiur wheel is shaking the rotors are warped again __________________ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtvG...data_playerARK HFC'S-ARK Grip-Stillen G3-M370-UPREV-Kinetix upper control arm-WC Latheworks-Stage2 Bad@$$ Driver(318whp/268tq)-

05-10-2013, 02:42 AM	#40 (permalink)
ImportConvert A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: SWMO Posts: 4,454 Drives: 2019 CX5 GT Reserve Rep Power: 7627	None of my other cars ever needed any special nonsense. Just carry the rotors down town and have em turned. Worked fine every time. If this car needs supercar maintenance, it needs a lot more incentive for me to own it. I think its just pads, this time. Nissan apparently uses bad ones. Again, I'm used to American cars, so maybe this is an import thing. If this doesn't fix it, ill just deal with it, shaking wheel and all, but ill never buy another Nissan, that's for sure. This is the shittiest car I have ever owned that was less than a decade old, much less, new. Last edited by ImportConvert; 05-10-2013 at 02:45 AM.

05-10-2013, 09:15 AM	#41 (permalink)
roy'sz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: palmdale, ca Posts: 1,299 Drives: 2010 nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	how can it be your pads if pads aren't a moving piece of machinery? pads are stationary and are going to wear at any angle because it is a softer material than rotors, thus re-proving my point that your rotors are slightly warped. If I were you, buy a new set of oem rotors and pads and install them yourself. Follow the torqueing procedures and try it out that way. If you shaved the pad it won't be a even seat on the rotor causing the brake pad to get hot, once it gets hot it could deposit more material onto the rotor causing a hard/hot spot causing it to warp. I have heard of this happening before, which is why I always buy new pads with new or turned rotors. __________________ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtvG...data_playerARK HFC'S-ARK Grip-Stillen G3-M370-UPREV-Kinetix upper control arm-WC Latheworks-Stage2 Bad@$$ Driver(318whp/268tq)-

05-10-2013, 02:02 PM	#42 (permalink)
BigT Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 469 Drives: 98 2g DSM Rep Power: 13	I would check all of the bushings in the suspension. The nosedive during braking might be pushing something out of wack. Also, have you checked your wheel balance? __________________ 2014 Jeep GC 1998 Talon TSI awd 2011 Z Sport - SOLD

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