First Problem With my 370Z
 

Brakes have an issue. The steering-wheel shakes pretty bad when I press 'em.

I am going to drive it a bit and see if something just got on the rotor/pad or what. They are re-finishing the roads here and maybe some gunk needs to be burned off?

If it's not better in 100 miles or so, my 10,000 mile old '12 370Z looks like it will get a Brake Job, probably courtesy of Nissan.

Just my guess for now.

75mph accelerating: smooth. Coasting: smooth. Applies brakes: shakes.

Sounds like the rotors are warp. Any track days?

Base or sport?

rotors are warped most likely. nissan won't do anything about it. just have em turned (resurfaced)

Highly unlikely you've warped those fat chunks of metal this fast.

Far more likely that you are feeling pad transfer (possibly from improper bedding)

It's pretty common with the stock pads. You can try going though the bedding procedure to try and clear them, or scuff up the rotor surface a bit.

Sport, 10K miles, never got the oil temp above 225, no track days.


It is my opinion that it is possible that somehow pad material transferred improperly, hence I will drive it for 100 miles and see if anything changes, maybe go through a bedding procedure late at night.

It's a myth that rotors warp.

What is the best proceedure for OEM Sport pads?

It feels like a bedding issue to me because the harder I apply the brakes, the "calmer" it feels. If something were not "true", that would only make it worse.

lol... you must have never seen one on a brake lathe :icon17:

Yea that was a joke right?

has to be... i mean the guy can access a forum and type a post, he can't be full-retard :icon14:

Re-bed them. A couple of high speed stops should do ya



"warped rotors" is more a misnomer than a myth, since the uneven deposits represent a "warped" braking surface.

Exactly. A rotor doesn't warp. It can wear un-evenly, or it can get uneven deposits on it, but warp? Show me...

while that's probably true in most cases^ i've seen plenty that were almost un-turnable. usually on big, heavy SUV's like escalades. but that's not to say it couldn't happen on smaller cars too

This is because the deposits heated un-equally over time, to much higher temperatures than the surrounding rotor, leading to the conversion of that part/spot on the rotor surface to cementite, a harder material, which will require physical removal or the problem will simply re-present soon as it will not wear with the rest of the rotor face.

Ok, misnomer or not, that is what's commonly referred to as "warped rotors". Looks like folks have been helpful with their suggestions. Possibly your pads aren't properly bedded in, or perhaps you have "deposits on your rotor, heated unequally over time to much higher temperatures, leading to the conversion of that part to cementite."

Either way, I really hope this gets sorted quickly and painlessly for you.

I have the exact same issue but it has been diagnosed as a warped rotor.
We tried sanding off all the deposits but found out that the front driver's side rotor is warped.

I had this same problem with my Z last year. While I didn't try the re-bedding procedure, I did get the rotors resurfaced and it was running perfectly after that.

Hold the wheel straight.

Most "warped rotors" can be attributed to friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. In any case, you should check the disc for any cracks or debris and make sure the hub is set properly. I would also check and make sure the lugs are evenly and properly torqued.

After turning the rotors twice, since they were warped 3 times, I replaced them with OEM rotors and no more issues now with one track day under them.

NEVER go full-retard

:tup:

nice.

Re-bedded. Feels good on stops below 75mph, vibes a bit above. I think it's a slight amount of improperly transferred material, likely due to my driving style (twisties, then red-lights sitting there with my foot crammed on the brake so I don't roll into someone). I will live with it until I do tires, then I will probably have the rotors cleaned up, put on a different pad than stock (Stock seems to be known for easy material transfer? What does everyone recommend for a street pad with low dust that will do better? I'm not building a race-car, just looking for a slight upgrade that is more friendly to me in this manner. Is the NISMO pad a good alternative? Like I said, this is just a little daily, not a track monster.) and have the alignment re-done (street alignment specs would be nice if anyone has some, I want a bit more traction up front, the back-end seems to be set up very well.).

One time I did tires on my WS6, paid about $300/tire, and went on a road-trip. You guessed it. I ate a tire due to an alignment that was off. Stupid. I was in college and broke as hell, the tires were a gift, and I didn't pay for an alignment because it didn't pull L/R and I figured it was "good enough". WRONG. That is why I do an alignment every time I replace tires, now. Regardless.

when i was a service writer i always sold alignments with tires. my pitch (that worked) was "you wouldn't get new glasses without getting your eyes checked first, right? same thing..."

Yeah, it's one of the few things that I now honestly believe is a real "Value added" and not an up-charge. All it took was one 275/40/17 F1GSD3 chewed to **** to convince me :shakes head:

My brakes were doing the same thing and I drove very conservatively. I took it to Nissan and they replaced all my rotors/pads under warranty, but be warned - your "brake" warranty ends after 1 year or 12,000 miles, so if you're still within that I would def just go in.

My rotors were also diagnosed as warped. I heard a LOT of G37's had this issue as well

For street pads I really like the Carbotech 1521/Bobcats. Little/no dust, no squeal, good feel, and seem to last forever.

Went straight to the XP8s, little bit of squeel after 3k miles, little worse after 5k. Combined with Motul RBF600, don't have to worry about them overheating. Mine's a daily driver.

Better to change your stop light habits after heating up your brakes. Let the pad sit on a fresh spot on the rotor every 20-30 seconds. Just give yourself a couple of extra feet at the light then move forward about a 2 feet every 30 seconds. That'll allow your rotors to cool a little more evenly.

Unless you change the tire specs or hit a huge pothole, an alignment isn't usually necessary. You can usually tell improper wear pattern from the old tires. It would have to be really way off to chew up a tire on single trip. Doesn't hurt to align every time you replace tires if you don't mind paying.

I don't. I would rather that than chew up another $300 tire. I learned my lesson. I live in the second to worst state in the nation, and our roads are no exception. I could literally total my 370Z on public roads by ripping the oil-pan off the engine and destroying the K-member if I did not dodge some of the up-heavals in our roads. No exaggeration. Never even bother visiting LA is my advice. It's a crap state in EVERY WAY POSSIBLE.

That out of the way...

The dealership turned my front rotors and re-bedded my brakes for me. They said the driver's side rotor had to be turned twice and was the issue. Crazy. Pads wore equally on both sides, they said. I don't know why the driver's side rotor would have shat the bed so badly.

lmao. The way you bad mouth Lousiana makes me laugh because you do so in SO many of your posts. It's great. I visited LA once when my Step dad's sister still lived there. Could have done without it.

Why do you live there, if I might ask? You seem to utterly hate it. I hope you're getting paid a ton of money so at least the misery is justified.

Come to Texas. We have lots of open roads :-P

and speed limits that change with the time of day and cops that pull you over for 3 over =P

I kindof am. I earn about what someone who does what I do earns in Palo Alto,CA. That is literally the only thing keeping me here.

Currently saving for a move in 2013, though. I got into NFA weapons and have some stuff "Pending" and am going to wait until I get it, then move. SO MUCH EASIER! than sending in an address change before it clears.

The plan is Fayetteville, AR. I like small towns, just not crappy inbred towns like Shreveport, and before anyone who knows nothing of AR but the common incest jokes, check out what I mean about how awesome Fayetteville is, as compared to the dump I live in now:

http://www.city-data.com/city/Fayett...-Arkansas.html
vs.
http://www.city-data.com/city/Shreveport-Louisiana.html



PS. I hope you didn't drink the water or touch the women, when you visited. Both are disgusting and can cause health problems.

I've lived there, true story!

TX is a grab-bag of good/bad. Theft was too high for me. Property taxes can get ugly, too.

2 weeks ago the front rotors were turned. The driver's side required 2 passes, I was told. WTF?

The tech then bedded them in for me with the aid of a laser temp. gun.

When I got back in my car, braking was positive with very good pedal feel and none of the previous shaking. +1 to my local Nissan dealership, Orr Nissan of Bossier City, LA!

I was handed a zeroed ticket and offered coffee and entertained by the receptionist and television during my wait.

The car is doing as well today as it was that day. G2G.

Great opportunity to upgrade your rotors brake fluid and pads I figure.

I like it when stuff breaks so I can take it off and shop this forum for upgrades!!!!

Nismo pads are supposed to be good. I hear Oem rotors and pads are a problem to remove if you run your brakes hard (I don't often but will upgrade nonetheless for peace of mind).

The calipers are reported to be solid even by the track gurus.

Brake cooling also seems to be a common issue. I'm thinking of putting in a brake duct mod (just because it seems fun)

My advice. Let your mechanical failures bring you joy by using them as an opportunity to upgrade your ride!. These cars are awesome with a few little weak spots. When something breaks (or fails to "break" lol) you just found a weak spot! TIME FOR UPGRADES!!!! Woo hoo.

http://www.bonedaddy.net/Fishey/IMG_0027%20(Medium).JPG
http://www.bonedaddy.net/Fishey/IMG_0027%20(Medium).JPG

Warped Rotor.. I have seen it many times.

Sometimes its pad transfer sometimes it is not. Usually if the rotor looks "blue" its pad transfer. If the rotor looks normal silver usually a physically warped rotor. It is extremely extremely rare that a warped rotor would happen on a car that didn't have a caliper issue. I would say 99% of real warped rotors there is a problem in the caliper or brake system that causes the condition. Hope that helps.

-Your Pal
Fishey

This will mark the 3rd time I will need to turn my front rotors (back once) within 10k miles and I drive the car hard but only 1 autocross.

Sport Touring

This is not acceptable. I need to solve this crap. :shakes head: I'm guessing its a rotor temp and pad material issue. I'm using RBF600 with steel lines and hawk HPS pads but rotors are stock. I might get the stillen hook slot rotors with the cooling duct but would hate to spend that money and the issue persists. :mad:

an older article not related to OP's topic but interesting

Z Meets Wall: We Investigate Why the NISMO Z's Brakes Failed at Lightning Lap - Feature - Car and Driver

I have been having similar issues with warped brakes, I am a normal driver no track time and been getting warped rotors since 4K miles on a Nismo Edition 2011 370Z. Nissan resurfaced them twice and replaced the rotors at 15K without charging me. Up to this point I am still having the same issue and I am not even driving the car that much any more. I get vibration while driving down at 65 70 MPH and hitting the brakes worsens that vibration. I called Nissan corporate to discuss as I had the 2008 Nismo Brembo brakes with no issues but hit the 370 now and end up with lost time and warped rotors. Has anybody tried doing something different to get that issue resolved. I was told the quality of the brake components are not that great and are known to warp. I really don't want to spend 2 to 3 k on big brake as I don't do track.