I have no idea how someone messes up a pad/rotor change, but dumber things have been done at dealers. Maybe you've got a bad set of pads. Are you still on the original set of pads? If this was a systemic Nissan issue there would be far more reports of warped/uneven rotors, and there's just a few. Are the pads being bedded in correctly after turning or replacing the rotors? I'm grasping at straws to find a reason why this keeps happening to you.

I always thought it was generally accepted that Nissan rotors are garbage. I have heard of a few local guys that have had to have theirs turned a few times. Not that big of a deal for me though since I don't run stock pads, and as soon as I kill these rotors I'll be switching to something better.

The first time, the GTR tech bedded the pads in for me just like they do the GT-R's, using a heat-gun to verify temp, etc. It lasted 7,000 miles, roughly.

As to bedding, well, I've changed pads on some of my other cars without even bothering to turn the rotors and just drove it like normal and it did fine. Stopped a bit poorer until the pads conformed to the grooves worn in the 100K+ mile old rotors, but eventually it did fine. Tens of thousands of miles and many aggressive turns later, no shaking.

It's a big deal to me because I drive this car the same as any other car, and it is the only car that's ever had this issue, from my 1988 5.0, to my 2002 G20, to the Kia rental car I put over 1,000 miles on (still smooth as glass on the brake pedal), to my much maligned WS.6, and especially my Z06.

This car.
Sucks.
In the braking department.

All on the original pads? I don't know what else could be causing it at this point.

Yes, I just ordered new pads and will have them installed Monday morning. I went with these: 370Z StopTech Brake Pads (Sport Model)

Can't ever go wrong with Stoptech. Hope that clears up the issue.

Had this issue as well. Just replaced my rotors and brake pads and the issue is gone.

Now my issue is I have a rasping sound coming from the rear driver side tire that I thought was the brakes but apparently not as its still there. Some kind of rubbing that I couldn't find when I did the change out today. It's a mystery scooby!

Oh yes the rasping sound was there before and after I switched out rotors and brakes.

I had mine resuffaced then about 10k miles later it happened again. I really think it is just the stock pads suck. I have a sport and Nissan wouldn't even cut me a price break the first time for turning the rotors. They wanted $125.00 per wheel, I went and did the labor and took them in for $40.00 for all 4.

I have a 2012 Base Model, no sport, with 22k on the clock with VERY aggressive driving...3rd set of tires already for the rears lol. Have had 6 Autocross events, the stupid highway pulls, a lot of canyon carving, and my pads are still fine and brake soft smooth and feel perfectly fine. As stated earlier, the sport pads are garbage unless you get the new upgraded pads offered for the 2013. Other then that, change your pads ASAP.

What did the 2013's get?

Well, fried either/both my Stoptech pads and/or Z1 slotted rotors. Horrible shake from any stops above 70, and noticeable at any stop from above 40. **** this, I'm selling the **** when I break even in it. Going back with what works and getting a nice American made (well, somewhat, nothing is 100% American anymore) vehicle. Above and beyond, this is the shittiest car I have owned. It's built like a Faberge egg. Gorgeous but tissue-paper soft. Yes, I have owned cars with more issues, but none below 100K miles. This thing was falling apart from the get-go. Nissan. Stick to shitty throw-away cars. It's what you do best, no-matter what you market it as.

If you like your vag-wagon, great. Maybe you only drive it to church and back each weekend, or maybe Nissan's quality is so variable that yours doesn't have issues. Lucky you. Some of us do drive spiritedly, and some of us apparently do have a ton of QC issues. Given all the rotors and pads I have been through, it's something to do with the geometry of the suspension up front (yes, it's been realigned already), or the lack of airflow, or something (Isn't that what totaled a NISMO at VIR?). Either way, this **** is for looking at, not driving. I drive.

And to think, if you would have just bought the new pads instead of having some dumb @$$ putting a heat gun to your pad trying to to bed them in then you wouldn't have had an uneven brake pad getting hot in one spot and depositing material onto your rotor causing it to warp. I wouldn't have skimped out on the pads when you bought new rotors

1: I bought new pads. They are made by StopTech.
2: WTF are you talking about with this heat-gun nonsense? An IR temp-gun was used to measure rotor-temp during initial bed-in, the first time they did this. It actually produced the best results, with the car going 7,000 miles before the brakes sucked again.
3: I cannot help what the GT-R techs do with my car. It's all free, and it's all by a Nissan dealership. WTF do you want me to do, go spent MY money on fixing **** that shouldn't be broken? HELL. NO. That's why I bought a NEW car. So I wouldn't have headaches like this. Problem was, it was a NISSAN. FAIL. I should have researched more and taken a hint from all the 5.0 ship-jumpers.

based off of post #63 first sentence. that is what its based off of. for a fyi brakes are not considered a warranty product, just like tires and oil and washer fluid. I have 53k on my Z with stock pads and rotors and not a single problem with my brakes. I've done a couple of canyon runs and a lot of spirited driving but no problems. Maybe its your driving technique. I am not in any way shape or form slamming your or trying to put you down, just helping you out because in the future if you do purchase a 5.0 and get the brembo brake kit you will still be at the same point you are with this car. Also for a FYI on those, the rotors are softer material than the 370's. Think about it before you jump ship.