Come to Texas. We have lots of open roads :-P

and speed limits that change with the time of day and cops that pull you over for 3 over =P

I kindof am. I earn about what someone who does what I do earns in Palo Alto,CA. That is literally the only thing keeping me here.

Currently saving for a move in 2013, though. I got into NFA weapons and have some stuff "Pending" and am going to wait until I get it, then move. SO MUCH EASIER! than sending in an address change before it clears.

The plan is Fayetteville, AR. I like small towns, just not crappy inbred towns like Shreveport, and before anyone who knows nothing of AR but the common incest jokes, check out what I mean about how awesome Fayetteville is, as compared to the dump I live in now:

http://www.city-data.com/city/Fayett...-Arkansas.html
vs.
http://www.city-data.com/city/Shreveport-Louisiana.html



PS. I hope you didn't drink the water or touch the women, when you visited. Both are disgusting and can cause health problems.

I've lived there, true story!

TX is a grab-bag of good/bad. Theft was too high for me. Property taxes can get ugly, too.

2 weeks ago the front rotors were turned. The driver's side required 2 passes, I was told. WTF?

The tech then bedded them in for me with the aid of a laser temp. gun.

When I got back in my car, braking was positive with very good pedal feel and none of the previous shaking. +1 to my local Nissan dealership, Orr Nissan of Bossier City, LA!

I was handed a zeroed ticket and offered coffee and entertained by the receptionist and television during my wait.

The car is doing as well today as it was that day. G2G.

Great opportunity to upgrade your rotors brake fluid and pads I figure.

I like it when stuff breaks so I can take it off and shop this forum for upgrades!!!!

Nismo pads are supposed to be good. I hear Oem rotors and pads are a problem to remove if you run your brakes hard (I don't often but will upgrade nonetheless for peace of mind).

The calipers are reported to be solid even by the track gurus.

Brake cooling also seems to be a common issue. I'm thinking of putting in a brake duct mod (just because it seems fun)

My advice. Let your mechanical failures bring you joy by using them as an opportunity to upgrade your ride!. These cars are awesome with a few little weak spots. When something breaks (or fails to "break" lol) you just found a weak spot! TIME FOR UPGRADES!!!! Woo hoo.

http://www.bonedaddy.net/Fishey/IMG_0027%20(Medium).JPG
http://www.bonedaddy.net/Fishey/IMG_0027%20(Medium).JPG

Warped Rotor.. I have seen it many times.

Sometimes its pad transfer sometimes it is not. Usually if the rotor looks "blue" its pad transfer. If the rotor looks normal silver usually a physically warped rotor. It is extremely extremely rare that a warped rotor would happen on a car that didn't have a caliper issue. I would say 99% of real warped rotors there is a problem in the caliper or brake system that causes the condition. Hope that helps.

-Your Pal
Fishey

This will mark the 3rd time I will need to turn my front rotors (back once) within 10k miles and I drive the car hard but only 1 autocross.

Sport Touring

This is not acceptable. I need to solve this crap. :shakes head: I'm guessing its a rotor temp and pad material issue. I'm using RBF600 with steel lines and hawk HPS pads but rotors are stock. I might get the stillen hook slot rotors with the cooling duct but would hate to spend that money and the issue persists. :mad:

an older article not related to OP's topic but interesting

Z Meets Wall: We Investigate Why the NISMO Z's Brakes Failed at Lightning Lap - Feature - Car and Driver

I have been having similar issues with warped brakes, I am a normal driver no track time and been getting warped rotors since 4K miles on a Nismo Edition 2011 370Z. Nissan resurfaced them twice and replaced the rotors at 15K without charging me. Up to this point I am still having the same issue and I am not even driving the car that much any more. I get vibration while driving down at 65 70 MPH and hitting the brakes worsens that vibration. I called Nissan corporate to discuss as I had the 2008 Nismo Brembo brakes with no issues but hit the 370 now and end up with lost time and warped rotors. Has anybody tried doing something different to get that issue resolved. I was told the quality of the brake components are not that great and are known to warp. I really don't want to spend 2 to 3 k on big brake as I don't do track.

Thank you for posting this link,very detailed information about what the stock sport brakes limits are.

I'm actually at the dealership now cause my steering wheel and pedals would shake when breaking.. They are changing both front rotors and pads under warranty and also an alignment and balance

Do you hold the pedal down at stop lights? Do you ride the brakes fairly often?

If you hadn't had the rotors replaced already, I'd say with near absolute certainty that it was just transfer turning into cementite (real word).

That said, your driving style could easily have compromised that new set immediately after installation.

I usually recommend for folks like us (I have done this to nearly every car I've ever owned, with the exception of the Z for reasons I'll explain in a sec) use a sintered, all metal pad and just deal with the extra dust and noise (shims really take care of most of that).

I've had sintered pads since almost day one (hard core race pads made by CL Brakes, RC6) and Carbotech has a couple of formulas that are suitable for daily driving as well as autocross or spirited driving.

Again, they're dusty, they make a little noise, but they feel AMAZING and aren't capable of forming cementite as they are not a material transfer pad like ceramics (stock pads) are.

My 2 cents.

So it seems that I'm having the same issue here. I have about 19k miles on my 2012. Never been tracked, but this is my daily driver and I do spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic...:mad: Every now and then, I do a little spirited street driving. I'm starting to get the shimmer in the steering wheel when I brake. I've done a few 60-0 hard stops to clear off any transfered metals, but it only seems ot clear it up for a few days... then it starts getting worse. I also just had new tires put on the car with an alignment. It seems odd that this happens after I get this done...anyones thoughts?

Yeah, if it's cementite formation, it actually alters the metal of the rotor... simply turning them down a few thousandths to re-surface them won't really suffice. You have to take off a LOT of material to get rid of it, usually resulting in the rotor being out of spec.

I would just get the cheapest rotors you can find and pair them with the most aggressive Carbotech or CL pad you can stomach and call it a day.