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SPL Traction Arms, any experience or knowledge

Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1 Galeforce, Great meeting you and your family this past weekend! I hate that your son didnt like sitting in the car. That would have been an

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Old 06-26-2012, 02:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Galeforce,
Great meeting you and your family this past weekend! I hate that your son didnt like sitting in the car. That would have been an awesome pic.

You are correct, SFR Enterprises is sponsored by SPL Parts Pro (Sean Farrah).

Also to be clear, we are a SPL Dealer as well. I do not think we have the SPL 370Z components listed on our site YET...I will need to double check. Otherwise we can also obtain any of their parts as well.
Hi Dustin It was great meeting you. It's a shame my little guy was afraid of sitting in the race car, thanks to you and the team for the offers.

I'm still working on the photos from the weekend. I'll send you a PM with a link to the photos for you and the team to look through when I'm done.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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bump, does spl or whiteline have any pushings out yet for our car? except spl's front inner control arm, knuckle ball, and subframe ones.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'd like to see spl front control arms!
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:10 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I'd like to see spl front control arms!
Here's a pic of the one's that were being tested on the #51 World Challenge Z.
IMG_4826.JPG
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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what about them bushings, i believe mine are wearing out :|
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:53 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I'd like to see spl front control arms!
That would probably be around $700 if there was one available. There is one for the 350Z for that exact price.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:42 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gomer_110 View Post
Here's a pic of the one's that were being tested on the #51 World Challenge Z.
Attachment 54887
interesting! i thought they would have a design similar to the 350z front arm using the shim system
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:00 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I have a set but haven't installed yet. I do have other SPL pieces installed. Very nice stuff. Allows for easy alignment. I personally believe other two arms are more critical. Especially for us guys running true coil overs in the rear. Nice clean way to delete that ugly stock arm with spring holder.

Benefits of adjustable traction bar? I'm still figuring that out. Trying to think what it will do? Guess it would impact toe and maybe caster? Not sure. I went more for the solid bushings and high quality design. Won't know how it impacts alignment until I have it on the car and start dinking
Ok I'm confused. Spoon asked about traction links (arm that runs from the front of the car to the rear per say). You seem to be talking about toe links which replace the aluminium arm that holds the rear spring. Or am I missing something? Before I found this in a search I thought toe was adjusted by the eccentric bolt in the mid link arm or the traction arm if you bought an adjustable one. I guess I'm wrong. Unless I spend $728 on the spl mid link or buy true coils and then buy the spl toe arms, at the moment I have zero way to adjust rear toe because I installed a lockout bolt.
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:05 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Bump.

Mine are installed. I've adjusted some for toe. Till I get on an alignment machine, I don't think I'm adjusting toe correctly. But I'm not worried about toe. I want to know what I spent $300 for? Anyone learn something about these?
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:43 AM   #27 (permalink)
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You will not need to adjust toe with these. Keep them as close to stock length as possiable and equal on both sides. These traction arms just help maintain stability under load of the suspension to aid in keeping the toe at postion. Then the fact of you removed another OEM rubber bushing. They also can help with bump steer.

A suspension is like aero dynamics. It works better when all parts come together.
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:09 PM   #28 (permalink)
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You will not need to adjust toe with these. Keep them as close to stock length as possiable and equal on both sides. These traction arms just help maintain stability under load of the suspension to aid in keeping the toe at postion. Then the fact of you removed another OEM rubber bushing. They also can help with bump steer.

A suspension is like aero dynamics. It works better when all parts come together.
I adjusted one side and it did have crazy bump steer. Now they're both OEM length and equal. But the issue I have now is the drivers tire is like 2.5" away from the rear bumper while the passengers is like 3".
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:54 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I wouldn't use the rear bumper for measurement. As long as there equal length from side to side and the alignment is good. Your good.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:24 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I would use the rear bumper for measurement. As long as there equal length from side to side and the alignment is good. Your good.
You mean wouldn't use it?

I just spent an hour redoing everything. Made sure each traction arm is 10 5/8 like OEM center hole to center hole, flipped my lockout plates and ground down one side since the top to bottoms where longer than the side to sides, so now the plates are 0.13" shorter on one side than the other, and had to redo camber because of the plates changing toe.

Now I'm -1.7 degrees each side and 0.25" toe in. Toe is still out of spec but its better than 0.69" toe in then when I started. I think I need to make new plates. I can't grind down the one side anymore because then it will be to short and will flop in between the slots in the subframe. If you look at this pic of where a guy made new plates, my holes are in between the centered holes and where his are. So with new plates and moving the hole more to one side like his, I'm sure I can get another 0.125" each side.

However tires to bumper I'm still 2.5" drivers side and 3" passenger.

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