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-   -   Any Experience with these.... (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/55227-any-experience-these.html)

ddvette9 05-24-2012 03:21 PM

Any Experience with these....
 
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K11...ar=1&carId=001

Looks good. Price seems right. Cant go wrong for a non-sport, non tracked daily driver, just not sure whether to pull the trigger. The Z1 is 200$ more plus shipping. for 341 this seems like a great deal.

Anyone like these or have a recommendation for 500$ or under pad and rotor replacement other than factory

Also looked into r1 concepts

vjarnot 05-24-2012 05:56 PM

For a daily-driver, I'd just buy the cheapest rotors you can find, once you've worn out the oem rotors. Of course, given that it's 350 for four rotors and pads; these may be the cheapest rotors out there...

kellyefields 05-24-2012 06:36 PM

I personally would not go with a drilled and slotted rotor. I have heard to many stories about them failing, granted you are not tracking the car so you have less worry but for a piece of mind I would stick to just the slotted rotor. Stillen's J hooks work great and you will be able to tell a difference in breaking the first time you step on the break.

KaienZ34 05-24-2012 08:27 PM

Track or not all drilled rotor crack after not to long, go slotted or J hook.

vjarnot 05-24-2012 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kellyefields (Post 1735515)
Stillen's J hooks work great and you will be able to tell a difference in breaking the first time you step on the break.

Rotors are heatsinks. Pads generate friction, which serves to convert kinetic energy into heat, which the rotors must absorb and dispose of. 'Good' rotors can operate at higher temperatures than 'bad' rotors without failing. Such temperatures are unattainable with street pads (maybe if you intentionally ride the brakes, but you'll definitely cook the pads). Yes, the rotors do serve as friction surface as well, but they're all made of essentially the same material. So the differentiating factor between friction surfaces comes down to how much of the pad contacts the rotor, where the undrilled and unslotted rotor is 'best'. Certainly, if you believe you may be suffering from pad out-gassing, you would benefit from slots or holes. I don't think you need be concerned with pad out-gassing at street-driving brake temperatures.

Saying that, I think any perceived difference in braking is placebo effect... unless there was something wrong/defective/broken with your previous rotors.


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