Look at post #11 in this thread . . .

Someone else revived this old thread, so I’ll add on.

I’ve had my Z lowered on Swift spec R springs for about a year. I knew I had some camber with my rear tires, but within spec of alignment. I hardly ever drive it in the rain, but did so today and felt like I was riding on ice. Checking the tread, my inner tread is almost gone.

I guess I need to invest in some new rear camber arms.

I’m running Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ tires. Anything I can do aside from removing wheels and flipping tires to help extend life? Would running lower air pressure help?

Thanks for any positive feedback. Be kind! Lol

AS3 has “inside” and “outside” markings, don’t think you are supposed to flip them.

I looked them up and it says that they’re non-directional. I know rotating them won’t do any good, and my wheels are staggered, so just trying to see what can be done to get as much life out of these as possible before replacing.

Directional and inside/outside markings aren’t one in the same.

Can you? Yes. Should you? No.

Gotcha, thanks. Going to order and install camber kit. Just hoping news tires aren’t needed right away.

Well, what’s the difference in thread depth from outside to inside? If you are already down to 4/32 at the middle, then you should replace. If you are flat on inside, but 6/32 middle, then it’s more than camber.

More often than not, it’s both toe and camber being off that chew up tires. Seen someone did lowering, arms, and tires at the same time (but didn’t do alignment lol), and new tires were shredded to almost flat within 14 days of normal driving. Toe was way off. No exaggeration.

I’ll have to check the depth. I’m 99% positive it’s just the camber. When they did the alignment they said it wasn’t perfect, but within specs. I’ve got about 20k miles on the tires.

I ordered new camber arms and toe bolts.

20k miles on as3? Either you drive hard often enough, or the alignment was no good really. AS3 is supposed to last a whole lot longer than that.

Also, individually, camber and toe may be within spec. But combined, it’s a different story. Toe-in (in this case) always exaggerate the wear on the inner thread from increased negative camber.

And on stock arms with rubber bushings, alignment can change as the bushings deteriorate (age, hard cornering/braking/acceleration, hitting a curb, or potholes one too many times...)

Thats a prob with these springs

Folks wanna buy these for a drop thinking they are saving money over coilovers and arms


But if they drop so low u need alignment adjustment then u still need the arms

In which case just get ******* coilovers for full adjustments

I don’t drive hard. I actually take it very easy. There is enough camber that I can see it.

I’m thinking the springs settled in some, and it’s way out of alignment now.

You remember what your camber settings are?

I took the gamble which seems like I lost. I’ve read some haven’t had to do anything other than the springs. I’ll get coil overs next year or so when budget allows.

I don’t. I thought I had the results in my glove box. But it wasn’t there.

If I have to buy new tires, lesson learned.

The first photo is my left rear tire. Second photo is of my front right.

My front is fine, my rears are where the camber is off. I went the cheap route now with new camber arms and eccentric bolts. Will go to coilovers next year after taxes.