I looked at them, but don't recall detailed instructions on removing the bumper ... but then I am a skimmer.

Bumper removal is in the OEM manual, but here is a DIY: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-removal.html

you don't remove the bumper. just the undertray. You can remove it to mount the duct mounting flanges, but you connect the hose to those while they are on the car.

There really wasn't much to take a picture of. Just the ducts on the stillen fascia. They had removed the hoses unfortunately, and Kyle wasn't aware of that before I went. However, he did show me where to route them and some other stuff they have going on, so it was still a productive visit.

Thanks for the link. Pics are very helpful. That does look reasonably easy. For whatever reason, I have never liked removing body panels.

Mike- Thanks again for stopping by today. I found out the test parts were taken off the car to build the manufacturing fixtures. I'm having the kit put back on next week.

The installation isn't actually difficult, it's just time consuming. $400.00 for the install is basically 4 hours of work. If we were to perform the installation, we would pull the fascia because it gives you more room to work. Plus, my guys can have these fascias off in about 15 minutes, so it only makes sense for us to do it this way. The time consuming part is the disassembly of the brakes/hubs and verifying alignment of the backing plate and wheel speed sensors. Running and trimming hoses etc. It's something that just about anyone can do in their driveway, but be prepared to spend a bit of time making sure everything is routed properly and fastened securely.

Anyone with updates on how their cooling is performing? I ordered yesterday and will be installing whenever she arrives. Like every task I undertake with this car, I'm sure it'll be a chore.

I don't have a track day until the end of the month. I'll be going by feel though. I don't have a pyrometer. Someone might have one I could borrow though. But I've never did a avg. measurment of before either. So mostly going on fate. I nned to get my new pads bedded in this weekend also.

Yeah, not an exact science for me either. My ultimate hope is that my dust boots survive the season without requiring a caliper rebuild. I may see the temp change with an infrared temp gun just for $hits and giggles.

I didn't have much luck using a temp gun for accurate readings as things cooled down a lot on the way into the pits thanks to the cool down lap.

What did work was the rotor temp paint and the caliper temp stickers. They are a bit on the pricey side but it was good data. There is a track day in 2 weeks but I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it with my current work schedule, still have to rebuild the calipers, change the rotors, install the ducts.

Also have to replace the ball joints in the SPC camber arms, mine have a bit of play in them now.

I'll be taking an infra gun with me to the track next weekend (Apr 21-22), but I don't have a solid set of comparison numbers anyways, what with the various brake problems and hardware changes that have plagued my last couple of trips. Hoping all of that's sorted out now, and the ducting should only help :)

you could always duct tape the vent openings... not a pure test but will give an indication of temp difference across two sessions

Hmm good idea. Maybe I'll order some temp strips/paint before then too.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with a pyrometer. Once you start getting above 300 degrees or so the increases and losses are instantaneous. I don't see how you will be able to even get an idea of how the cooling kit is working with a pyrometer. However, paint stripes on the rotor and caliper temperature stickers can give you an indication. My only concern would be if you ran it closed first, then open second. If you seal off the air flow prior to the cooling test, it won't really give you an accurate reading because the higher temperature reading would have already been taken meaning the paint and stickers have already "cooked."

To perform this test, you would have to run the cooling kit first, then record your results, then run again with the cooling kit blocked off.

If you're pointing a temp gun anywhere in your wheel wells, direct it at your tires.

Yeah, that's mostly why I bring one with me, to check tires. I have strips+paint ordered, but it's up in the air whether they'll arrive before that weekend. I'm going to ignore the A/B testing and just run with ducts open and focus on my driving most of the weekend, and I'll get a good feel for the temps I'm running, some fresh strips/paint occasionally, etc. On one of the later runs on the last day I'll try the duct tape with another fresh set of indicators and see how it goes.

Kyle, what's the timing on getting these kits shipped out? I ordered on Tuesday and haven't heard a peep about them shipping yet.