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Does the Z have a rear toe-steer problem?

Originally Posted by Red__Zed Most of the dynamic comes from the high wheel rate out back, as well as the dynamic change in rear toe mid-corner (both of which have

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Old 01-25-2012, 08:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
Most of the dynamic comes from the high wheel rate out back, as well as the dynamic change in rear toe mid-corner (both of which have been jacked up vs the 350)

Nissan basically improved full-on-throttle corner dynamics at the expense of off- and partial-throttle dynamic. The 350 had a tendency to step out under throttle due to insufficient toe in the rear. For the 370z, Nissan dialed in a suspension setup that would increase rear toe more significantly during cornering, and you wind up with a bit of a "floaty" or unstable feel from the excessive toe-in. You couple this with the high wheel rate, and you get exactly what you are talking about.
What you are describing is toe-in when the rear suspension is in a compressed condition and a toe-out in a rebound condition, am I correct?
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
I have adjustable traction arms, I don't think they really help in this situation (you already have them they just aren't adjustable).

Adjustable shocks tuned for stock spring rates are probably the best option, soften the settings for daily driving and then turn them up for weekend canyon carving.
In your case did you change the torque arm length or did you set it at the stock length? The implication of the Megan product description is that by adjusting the torque arm length the toe characteristics can be altered-your experience suggests otherwise. Comments?
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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In your case did you change the torque arm length or did you set it at the stock length? The implication of the Megan product description is that by adjusting the torque arm length the toe characteristics can be altered-your experience suggests otherwise. Comments?
It is more track oriented than street (mine is from SPL). First they eliminate the rubber bushing to get rid of random flex, and second you can use it to alter the bump steer slightly. But like I said before I'm not sure that the suspension is compressing enough to actually induce bump steer in your case, but rather the back end is bouncing off the bumps as a result of the spring rate, or to be more accurate wheel rate as Red pointed out.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
He said he wanted good feedback

Just kidding!

I don't think it is bump steer (although you can get some), I think it is mostly the rear bouncing over harsh bumps as the suspension isn't as compliant as average car due to it's sporty setup.

Not sure of an ideal solution, you can make the suspension softer but then you ruin the sportiness for the smoother corners. Stiff rear sway bar can also make it worse.
ha!

softening the rear damp rate will not help, actually will make it worse.
swaybars will not help in this case either.

it's completely related to the amount of stroke, toe-in angle on the rear, and damp rate. ive already experimented with this on my G35C and it's got a similar suspension geometry. it's a programmed design of this kind of suspension. i already mentioned on my earlier post on how to reduce this feel. this is another reason why im not running lowering springs on stock dampers.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
It is more track oriented than street (mine is from SPL). First they eliminate the rubber bushing to get rid of random flex, and second you can use it to alter the bump steer slightly. But like I said before I'm not sure that the suspension is compressing enough to actually induce bump steer in your case, but rather the back end is bouncing off the bumps as a result of the spring rate, or to be more accurate wheel rate as Red pointed out.
So your thinking shocks are the first option?

Somewhat off topic (maybe) but I notice that those forum members that install coil overs always seem to comment that the ride has improved. This seems counter intuitive considering that most of these applications involve a 1.5" to 2" drop which, in my experience, usually makes the ride choppy and harsh. Now back on topic. Are our shocks known to be a problem? Is improved ride with coil overs the result of better shocks (I'm not interested in a sloppy ride) or is something else going on here and can any of this in any way be used address my concerns about bump steer?
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
ha!

softening the rear damp rate will not help, actually will make it worse.
swaybars will not help in this case either.

it's completely related to the amount of stroke, toe-in angle on the rear, and damp rate. ive already experimented with this on my G35C and it's got a similar suspension geometry. it's a programmed design of this kind of suspension. i already mentioned on my earlier post on how to reduce this feel. this is another reason why im not running lowering springs on stock dampers.

the shortened torque arm and adjusted angle on the 370z changes things a bit vs the g35. The change results in the car generating additional toe-in under corner load, and if you take dynamic toe measurements, you will generally notice that the 370z is prone to over-toe, whereas the g35/350 struggle with stability due to no toe gain. It is a big part of the reason the 350 was unpredictable on corner exit.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:41 PM   #22 (permalink)
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if that was true, dont you think i would've jumped on c/o's 2 yrs ago?

the reason why my car has stock springs and dampers is to maintain balance and stoke for street. the car can use stiffer dampers so this is why ive been thinking about running koni's and using stock springs. lower ride does not = better handling. actually it worsens it on street as it's not a controlled surface like on the track.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:42 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
the shortened torque arm and adjusted angle on the 370z changes things a bit vs the g35. The change results in the car generating additional toe-in under corner load, and if you take dynamic toe measurements, you will generally notice that the 370z is prone to over-toe, whereas the g35/350 struggle with stability due to no toe gain. It is a big part of the reason the 350 was unpredictable on corner exit.
the principle is the same. the rear toes-out as the suspension compresses. that's why the wiggling butt. the 370Z is much improved vs the G35C, but as i mentioned, the design shares the same principle.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
ha!

softening the rear damp rate will not help, actually will make it worse.
swaybars will not help in this case either.

it's completely related to the amount of stroke, toe-in angle on the rear, and damp rate. ive already experimented with this on my G35C and it's got a similar suspension geometry. it's a programmed design of this kind of suspension. i already mentioned on my earlier post on how to reduce this feel. this is another reason why im not running lowering springs on stock dampers.
Is more toe going to eat the rear tires, or do you just bias it to the factory maximum spec for toe in? Whose dampers do you like?
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:01 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Is more toe going to eat the rear tires, or do you just bias it to the factory maximum spec for toe in? Whose dampers do you like?
more toe-in condition (0.40 total) will eat at your tires, but it will improve straight line stability for sure. but stiffer dampers will net your a lot more on this type of suspension.

on stock springs i think im going to be okay with koni yellows which are only re-bound adjustable (yellows are usually only re-bound adjustable and i am assuming the same for the 370Z's set). unfortunately this is the only damper set currently available for the 370Z that i know of. my only other alternative would be to get coilovers with near stock spring rate, linear rate springs, and keep stock ride height, use the adjustable damp settings to tighten up a little bit.

if im running progressive rate lowering springs i would prefer to have simultaneous adjustment dampers for street (bound and rebound stiffens together like my tokico D-Specs on the G...but not available for the 370Z). my goal would be to minimize suspension movement since it's already sitting near the outer stroke range of the stock suspension from the lowering springs... sacrifice would be some ride comfort. tires are eating pretty quick but i was able to get ~10K with sprited driving on RE050A PolePositions so that's not bad at all (currently running the new S04 PolePositions ).
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:13 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Kenchan, Red_Zed, I'm learning a lot here but if I'm reading your posts correctly kenchan says it toes out under compression and Red_Zed says it toes in under compression. Pick one.

My butt-o-meter suggests that the rear suspension gains significant toe in as it compresses because the car smartly (more like abruptly) steps back in line as the suspension compresses as it lands on the far side off the bump. If the toe change is radical enough that it goes to a near zero toe or (worse) a toe out condition at full droop when it launches off the bump and then gains a lot of toe in on compression we might be onto something as such a behavior would cause the condition I seem to be concerned about.

Comments?
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:16 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
the principle is the same. the rear toes-out as the suspension compresses. that's why the wiggling butt. the 370Z is much improved vs the G35C, but as i mentioned, the design shares the same principle.

except the shortened torque arm creates toe-in on compression. the funky wandering feeling described here (and in many other threads) comes from excessive toe-in.


I can't speak for the G35 for sure, but when I did bump steer measurements on my 370, I started at ~1/16*, and went to ~3/32* at full compression on the rear.


You can hook your Z up to a bump steer gauge if you don't believe me.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:20 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
more toe-in condition (0.40 total) will eat at your tires, but it will improve straight line stability for sure. but stiffer dampers will net your a lot more on this type of suspension.

on stock springs i think im going to be okay with koni yellows which are only re-bound adjustable (yellows are usually only re-bound adjustable and i am assuming the same for the 370Z's set). unfortunately this is the only damper set currently available for the 370Z that i know of. my only other alternative would be to get coilovers with near stock spring rate, linear rate springs, and keep stock ride height, use the adjustable damp settings to tighten up a little bit.

if im running progressive rate lowering springs i would prefer to have simultaneous adjustment dampers for street (bound and rebound stiffens together like my tokico D-Specs on the G...but not available for the 370Z). my goal would be to minimize suspension movement since it's already sitting near the outer stroke range of the stock suspension from the lowering springs... sacrifice would be some ride comfort. tires are eating pretty quick but i was able to get ~10K with sprited driving on RE050A PolePositions so that's not bad at all (currently running the new S04 PolePositions ).
Regardless of toe in or toe out, firmer shocks would reduce suspension travel and minimize undesirable toe changes,
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:47 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
except the shortened torque arm creates toe-in on compression. the funky wandering feeling described here (and in many other threads) comes from excessive toe-in.


I can't speak for the G35 for sure, but when I did bump steer measurements on my 370, I started at ~1/16*, and went to ~3/32* at full compression on the rear.


You can hook your Z up to a bump steer gauge if you don't believe me.
Would an adjustable torque arm allow you to tune out some of that toe change?
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:58 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Red_Zed, am I reading that right a total increase of 1/16" additional toe in? Is that from full droop to full compression?
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