Fix brake vibration by braking really hard to remove pad deposits?

cossie1600

Buy better pads and bed them in properly

Rusty

Measure to see how thick your rotors are. Chances are that you got one that is thin. Close to or under the limit.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

370z_2910

my z is about 20k plus, so my rotor is not really that thin.

i'll try to resurfaced it again.

someone have given me an advice that i need to replace my pad with high temperature ones.

do i need to replace my project mu with higher temperature rating?

whoLEEoh

i have the same problem so i ordered stoptech drilled and slotted rotors/hawk hps pads today...tomrrow is the last day to get free shipping so hit up Jomer and FBNISSAN hes a hell of a guy

__________________
2013 Boss 302

370z_2910

please update on this after few thousand km.

would be interested if it solve the brake problem.

Kyle@STILLEN

Chances are it's not related to the temperature threshold of your current pads. Brake pads do come in many "flavors." All are optimized for a particular purpose and environment. Low temperature pads are always used in street vehicles as they offer good braking performance when they are cold. High temperature pads are generally not recommended for street use as you will not have any bite until you get them up to temperature. Meaning on the street, you drive straight through the first stop sign before you actually have any braking capability.

Many people load their street vehicle with high temperature or race pads thinking they are pushing the car hard enough to take advantage of them....I find this highly unlikely. We have done extensive testing over the years and find that most street pads start to show fade or excessive wear in the 600-700 degree (fahrenheit) range. Just to put that into perspective, we took a Nissan GT R out for brake testing last month and performed the following tests: 10 stops from 60-0, 10 stops from 70-0, 10 stops from 80-0, 10 stops from 90-0, 10 stops from 100-0, 10 stops from 110-0. We were testing out some new braking components to see how they performed under these extreme conditions. On the mid-way 70-0 stop, we finally saw a little over 700 F. That means 15 HARD PANIC stops in a row is what it finally took to see that temperature...that is not exactly "real world." In this particular test our goal was to completely fade the braking system during testing of new friction materials which we're looking to bring out later this year. To achieve this goal we were able to cause complete fade after the first 110-0 stop on our "old" brakes test. On the "new" brakes test we actually surpassed the 10 110-0 stops and got through 10 120-0 stops before calling the test complete without actually being able to get the brakes any hotter.

As some members have pointed out you probably don't have warped rotors, you probably have an uneven pad transfer. The most common cause of this is when the driver gets the brakes nice and hot and comes to a stop light and just sits there with their foot on the brakes. Think of what happens when you put a fresh piece of chicken on the grill. If you let it sit there for more than a few seconds, the meat of the chicken gets stuck to the grill. Well, that's essentially the same thing. The surface of the pad literally cooks into the rotor. I may have pictures of this as I have seen rotors come back from customers with the imprint of the pad on the friction surface of the rotor. This transfer of material creates a rise in that area of the rotor. Once you've done this, you will experience a pulsation from here on out...you need to cut the rotor and get back to fresh material. With that being said, just because you can't see the pad outline in the rotor doesn't mean you haven't created an uneven pad transfer area in the rotor friction surface. This can be created in the same manner, spirited canyon run leading to a traffic light etc. And not actually leave any mark. If you ever watch or participate in a rally race you watch the drivers come smoking out of the stage and the good drivers don't come to a complete stop...they roll back and forth at the timing station so they don't have this problem.

Another problem may be your the material of your Project Mu pads. Sometimes using two unlike pad compounds can create a mis-match on the friction surface. If you did not clean up or re-surface the rotor before installing your new pads, the different compounds from the old to the new pad may not be playing nicely together and are not allowing a fresh transfer layer to be applied. The only way to resolve this issue is by cleaning the pad surface either on a brake lathe, or with some cleaner pads...Someone mentioned earlier using a special type of sand paper, this is basically an abbrasion material designed to scuff up the surface of the rotor to remove the old pad material from your friction surface.

We carry some street pads that are capable of going up to 1,300 degrees (F) although for guys going even hard than that we have different compounds all the way up to full endurance pads, depending on what the customer is looking for.

Sorry for the long explanation...I hope the information was helpful.

6MT

Finally a common sense explanation. I couldn't have said that better. Rep points to you! There seems to be a lack of understanding about just how important rotor surface finish is to proper performance of a braking system. I've read a lot of brake problem posts and have recommended refinishing rotors with lots of people commenting that I'm out of my mind. Being in the business of repairing cars and selling parts for over 25 years, I've seen my fair share of brake "issues".

A properly completed brake job with quality parts (and as mentioned above... the correct pads for the driving conditions) will almost always result in a properly performing brake system.

It's not rocket science ... but many people think it is.

__________________
Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

Rusty

Kyle, Thank you. That filled in a few blank areas of my knowledge.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Alstann

I'd also like to add that hot spotting is also usually a "domino effect" type of problem. When a hot spot is formed, that part of the rotor is now thicker. As the rotor rotates, the brake pad will ever so lightly skim the thicker section, thus unevenly heating the rotor with a bias at the hot spot. Of course, you can see why this will lead to very uneven rotor surface after a while of driving.

Also, some awesome info on brakes and related components can be found here on Stoptech's website: Technical White Papers

6MT

bump (to rid us of spammers)

__________________
Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

370z_2910

i try to resurface it again and do something with my project mu pad.

hopefully the 2nd time might help to resolve the problem.

whoLEEoh

i dont like resurfacing just because your making the rotor skinnier and skinnier...i feel its not safe after a while

__________________
2013 Boss 302

6MT

__________________
Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D

whoLEEoh

super helpful post...extremely necessary...how about u explain why im wrong so i could know and not be a **** about it?

__________________
2013 Boss 302

6MT

Come on "dude". If you would only read the whole thread.

forget it..

__________________
Andrew

2009 370Z Sport/Touring 6MT sold
2013 Honda Civic Si coupe D/D