They do improve pedal feel. But I guess you really wouldnt consider that performance. But knowing there better than the OEM soft rubber lines that are prone to flex under hard braking. Plus with all the heat it would be a matter of time. Plus there only a hundred dollar upgrade from Z1. SS lines have brass fittings and one less connection point reducing possiable leaks.

i lost a rubber line on my 350 after about 18 track days, still havent recover...

Stainless lines are rubber on the inside just like an OEM, but they are stiffer and stronger. Stainless is definitely preferred as they are more durable, but don't use cheap lines or you could be in a worse place than you started - they are only as good as the crimp.

At an event this year a car had "custom" SS lines installed, however (unbeknownst to him) the lines were just slightly too short causing them to rub against the edge of the wheel in certain turns. Ever lap the wheel weights were gradually nicking through the line, and then finally cut through. Finally the driver goes for the brakes at 90 mph and the pedal goes to the floor without warning, heading straight for a tire wall. The driver did a good job of threading the needle through a not quite wide enough escape opening, but took some significant body damage in the process.

All the SS brake lines I've ran had nylon or something like that underneath the SS braids? I've had SS braided oil lines with rubber underneath, but not for brakes?

Good suggestion on checking the rubbing of the brake lines if he decides to change to SS lines later on.

I've seen SS brake lines fail at tracks/time attacks too (either Russel or Earl's)...I use to always bring an extra set of SS brake lines with me to the track just to be cautious, but never had issues thankfully.

SS brake lines are more about feel as rubber lines can flex...but since this is his first track day and his car is fairly new, I wouldn't say it is necessary now, but definitely something to consider if he likes hpde's and is going to get more into it. Regardless, a thorough inspection of the car should be done in between sessions regardless what parts/brands are used.

-Ray

Okay, officially registered for the performance driving clinic at Buttonwillow for the 17th.

Awesome. Give us some feedback after its over. I'm trying to load a vid tonight of my last track day.

Wonder if I can remove and reinsert my oil cooler blocker through the gaps in front for track day or if I will nee dot bring my ratchet set for bumper removal... guess I'll find out then

You can remove the grill slats as I did or look at my DIY thread where I cut out a hole in the bottom panel. This is what I did first so I could adjust on the fly. But now with the grill section removed it's much easier. But do at your own risk.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...nta2011168.jpg

Option 2 http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...off-plate.html

SS brake lines are almost always teflon brake lines with a SS braided covering to protect them. The purpose is that they are more resistant to expansion under pressure and therefore provide a better pedal feel and maintain better pressure. For street use, it is better if the SS braiding has a rubberized coating. Sand and dirt can get under the SS braid and wear away at the teflon tubing.

So I just thought of this, but if I remove my oil cooler block off plate for the track, how will I get my temps up to 180 for track use? If i keep it on for the 13 mile drive from the hotel tot he track to get the temps up, will it be too hot to remove when I get to the track barehanded or will I need gloves?

You will need gloves. 180F will be too hot to touch barehanded unless you let it sit for 30 minutes to cool down.

You'll have no problem reaching 180F on track. Just let the car idle for 10 minutes to warm up before heading out.

I'm not worried about hitting 180 on the track, more worried about pushing it while it's under on the track before it hits 180. I guess if it's not there, I can tool around the parking lot a bit like I'm driving in traffic to get the temps up before getting onto the track.

Idling is actually the quickest and safest way, there will be no airflow over the cooler so it wont be doing much. Should have no problem hitting 180F just sitting still.

so messed up and just bled and changed the brake fluid instead of a full flush, will this help at all or did i basically get no improvement from this?

don't mix different types of fluid, ie dot 3 oem with dot 4 rbf 600. Do it again, it's a safety issue.