I just use a regular smallish C-clamp from the hardware store, and you can prevent the damage with some cardboard or whatever between the clamp and the painted part of
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10-19-2011, 03:47 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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I just use a regular smallish C-clamp from the hardware store, and you can prevent the damage with some cardboard or whatever between the clamp and the painted part of the caliper.
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11-04-2011, 02:54 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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Probably. Check to see how much pad you have left.
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03-13-2012, 09:11 AM | #35 (permalink) |
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FWIW - from Hawk Performance webpage
1.Install brake pads properly. Be sure pads are securely positioned in the caliper. 2. Flush system with fresh brake fluid. 3. Check all hydraulic parts for excess wear and tear. 4. Check disc for proper thickness, parallelism, and lateral runout. 5. Check disc for scoring or grooves over .012”depth. If either applies, resurfacing is required. 6. If discs do not need resurfacing, then contamination from the previous brake pads must be removed. Sand discs with 130 grit sandpaper using moderate pressure. Use soap and water to clean discs’ surface after sanding and machining. Discs should be free and clear of oil, grease, and brake fluid. 7. Inspect calipers for freedom of movement. Lubricate where necessary. |
08-14-2012, 06:34 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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JCWhitney has some relatively cheap in price rotors and pads on their website for the base non-sport 370Z. I'm skeptical, but I went ahead and purchased a pair of Centric OEM F rotors and F/R pads for $120 shipped. Reading around, Centric is apparently affiliated with Powerslot and Stoptech, so I'm hoping they aren't too terrible. I have 53k miles now on my original setup, so I figured to change them about now. Obviously can tell I'm mostly a street cruiser.
Thoughts? WCS... i'll just return the products. Crossing fingers! |
08-14-2012, 10:13 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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I'm pretty sure Centric is the maker of the generic blanks that a *lot* of aftermarket and OEM rotors come from. They're pretty good The other guys that use them just relabel and/or add some kind of finish, or coating, or maybe cut slots, etc.
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08-15-2012, 11:09 AM | #40 (permalink) |
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nice, bumped brake thread. I'll give an update on the Carbotech XP8s
Let me start by saying thier awesome! Unbelievable stopping power, no heat up required. Cold, stopping pressure is equivalent to stock. Warm, it gets a little lighter. (less foot pressure more stopping) 1st 3k miles no noise. I'm at 5k on them now. They squeek at slow speeds, coming up to traffic lights with light pressure on brakes. Not loud enough for people to turn their heads and look. Noise seems to go away for a while after getting them really hot on a back road. I've heard this experience repeated with other that installed the XP8s so I think it's pretty typical.
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08-15-2012, 01:14 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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For me, just normal street driving, I won't resurface the rotor more than once. I'll replace it after the second set of pads or if the rotor gets warped. I'm actually nearing the point of upgrading to the Akebono's from Z1. There's still some life in my current set, but I might have to bite the bullet and decide soon. Friggin thing is so damn expensive though. If I were going from the Akebono's to a BBK, at least I could offset some of the cost by selling them. No one will pay much for the base brakes.
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08-15-2012, 04:18 PM | #44 (permalink) | |
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