I have an 09 Z with 39k mi on it and the brake pads are wearing thin. Unfortunately I don't have a ton of money for a full rotor/caliper upgrade
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10-15-2011, 11:33 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Brake Change Time
I have an 09 Z with 39k mi on it and the brake pads are wearing thin. Unfortunately I don't have a ton of money for a full rotor/caliper upgrade so I'm wondering if anyone can suggest some affordable yet good performing brake pads and fluid so I can change the pads out with one of the mechanics at work.
My Z is a daily driver, I don't track it or race but I do drive fast and sometimes have stop and go traffic. The rotors look decent no grooves or warp that I can see so worst case I may need resurfacing which we can do at our shop. Any thoughts?
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10-15-2011, 12:09 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Just buy some Castrol DOT4 fluid, $9 or something if you don't track the car. You just want fluid to not boil, they don't really increase performance once you get rid of the air bubbles.
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10-16-2011, 10:49 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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im in a similar situation...dont have the money for the upgrade i really want right now but need pads...there has to be some options besides stock...any info would help us guys...the search wasnt the greatest help btw
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10-16-2011, 12:22 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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yah, most places will bring the rotor to the customer during the service and show them the natural wear grooves on the disc surface...and try to scare the customer into buying the resurfacing service. it's unnecessary unless your rotor bit a rock or something and put huge grooves making it impossible for the pads to have full contact even after breakin. the rotor's toast in that regard.
ive had more issues with resurfaced rotors vs just replacing pads and replacing the rotors all together every other pad change. |
10-16-2011, 12:52 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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It reminds me of the people who do clutch jobs and don't resurface the flywheel (or replace it). This thread is turning funny. Last edited by 6MT; 10-16-2011 at 01:11 PM. |
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10-16-2011, 03:05 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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You are still shaving metal away, not exactly a smart thing to do given you are taken away what it is suppose to do! If they have heavy deposits/grooves/lips on them, simply throw them away and get new ones. A simple rub on the rotor will take all the old deposits away, that's what you want primarily, it's especially true if you are staying with the same compound.
I just changed my pads again last night and the car is still stopping like it should. I must have missed the note about how resurfacing is a must every time you put on new pads. Oh, and I have changed my pads about 10 times in just the 370 alone..... I am sure all the track nuts aren't stupid enough to buy new rotors each time they swap pads for the track. Last edited by cossie1600; 10-16-2011 at 03:08 PM. |
10-16-2011, 09:59 PM | #11 (permalink) | |
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10-16-2011, 10:24 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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I swap it back and forth for each track days. I have done about 10 days, 10 changes is probably too little as I have to go back and forth each time. Heck, I am putting in random pads right now so I can find the proper brake balance on the car. I have 4 sets of pads in my garage right now.....
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10-17-2011, 10:18 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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I've gone through 10 sets easily. I went through the stock pads in one 20 minute session when my car was brand new. I've also gone through 5 sets of rotors before switching to stoptechs.
I do agree though, no need to resurface rotors when changing pads. Just bed the pads in properly and they will conform to the rotor surface. The stock brakes overheat bad enough as it is without taking any mass off the rotors by shaving them down. My recommendations: For pure street use: Hawk Ceramics or Akebono ceramcis For street/performance: Carbotech Bobcats.
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10-17-2011, 10:51 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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In my youth... I was a cheep SOB on rotors. Would'nt resurface unless it had grooves you could file your nails on. Never ever replaced rotors till I bought a new car and actually took care of it properly. If you're really hurting for cash, just run some 280 wet/dry sandpaper over it at about 60 degrees from the groove dirction. It'll take any old pad material off the rotor and give the new pads something to bite into for initial bedding. Do it dry and just rub back and forth with your thumb as you rotate the rotor. Total hillbilly job but it's worked for me on numerous vehicles. Do it at your own risk but my opinion on changing rotors every break job is that it's bull$#it.
Try downshifting when your stopping too, might make those pads last longer. |
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