Hotchkis is probably cheaper & lighter than the Stillen set. But IMO, I'd wait a little while longer, like someone said someone else will make an improved set eventually.
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05-12-2009, 07:20 AM | #31 (permalink) |
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Hotchkis is probably cheaper & lighter than the Stillen set. But IMO, I'd wait a little while longer, like someone said someone else will make an improved set eventually.
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05-16-2009, 02:14 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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Just to update if you're still looking. The hotchkis sway bars make a noticeable difference in the handling. A good cheap mod that will give you a little more confidence in the car.
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05-18-2009, 03:30 AM | #34 (permalink) |
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Ok... so many things in this thread. The Stillen front bar is 29% stiffer than stock. The rear is 3 way adjustable from 37-70% stiffer than stock.
The stock front sway bar in the 370z is pretty close to optimal for agressive street use, but the rear sway bar is just too soft for aggressive street driving or track use. The soft rear bar keeps the car understeering though and going to a stiffer rear bar will start getting you oversteer, which is bad for novice racers. I have the Stillen bars with coil overs that are set up way stiffer than stock, but a little too soft for racing. I have the rear stillen on the stiffest setting and the mix is outstanding for agressive street driving. With readjustment of the shocks, it would be good for track days, but I would lose a couple of seconds per lap if it were a gutted track car because the Stillen's are still a little too soft for hard core racing..... except that a track car will be lighter and make the current design closer to ideal in a lighter car. With -2.5 camber rear, -2.0 camber front with stock Re050A's and the rear Stillen bar at it's stiffest setting, the oversteer in low gear at full throttle is still liveable. Try full throttle in low gear in a Mustang, Camaro, Corvette or Viper and you'll be doing doughnuts. My last car was C6 Corvette with Z51 suspension and you could powerslide it through every corner (with -1.6 camber). I had traction control shut me down right after apex at 50 mph in 3rd gear on 305 width RE050A's. The rear end on the 370z really hooks up, partly due to it's -2.2 degree camber in the stock setting. Anyways, the reason I posted at this particular time is that the Stillen bars are on sale in May for $285 and they work well for agressive street/occasional track use. Cheers! -Phim |
05-22-2009, 04:45 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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Driving hard enough to bring your tires up to temperature and then driving fast enough to make the car oversteer or understeer using good form, IE smooth inputs, single apexing corners, etc. Similar to what you would do on a track, but for a short burst at a particular section of road when you have reasonable control, like no traffic around, no watching eyes and clean road surface.
Cheers! -Phim |
05-22-2009, 05:33 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Yes, I always observe those disclaimed conditions on the street as well
I'm not really all that well versed on suspension-y stuff. One thing I've observed on the stock (sport) setup lately though is that it seems that I've rolled the front tires over a little bit lately. I can see some (very light) scuffing on the passenger side front tire going over the corner of the tread onto the sidewall. Treadwear looks otherwise normal, I think the sidewall just didn't hold up on a recent corner. Do any of the suspension/camber changes help prevent this, or do you simply need lower-profile tires? |
05-22-2009, 05:49 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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The rear Stillen sway bar is only two way adjustable.
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05-22-2009, 05:52 PM | #40 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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05-22-2009, 05:58 PM | #41 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Increasing the sway bar stiffness reduces the lateral weight transfer which will help. Increased spring will reduce the weight transfer in all directions (lateral and longitudinal). The goal with camber is to dial it in to match the other suspension components and driving style so that the tire contact patch is as flat as possible during high load cornering. |
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05-22-2009, 06:32 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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Didn't check, sorry . I check my cold pressures about once a week when the car is morning-cold while daily driving, and shoot for about 35 up front and 34 rear.
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05-22-2009, 09:12 PM | #43 (permalink) |
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Hopefully Robert (redline) continues to weigh in, he's definitely THE EXPERT in this area... his shop has 2-3 porsche cup cars in it on any given day and he spent years as a mech with PMNA
My thought is that it sounds like you need to work the suspension, this likely isn't a problem with tire pressure based on your cold psi... more negative camber plus stiffen it up... spc/spl control arms plus hotchkis/stillen bars should do the trick... if you decide you want more, then stiffer springs or coilovers... or just keep burning through tires ! |
05-24-2009, 04:43 PM | #44 (permalink) |
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From Stillen's website:
Application Notes Description Part # Mfg # Price 2009 - 2009 370Z Front & Rear Kit Non-Adjustable Front (29% Stiffer) 3-Way Adjustable Rear (37-70% Stiffer) 304375 304375 $285.19 Again, it is 3 way adjustable. This is simply lever arms making torque ratios. There are one short lever arm position and one long lever arm position on each side. I'll make up some numbers for illustrative purposs below: Setting 1) left side long/ right side long: 5 degrees body roll gives 5 degrees of twisting of sway bar at 100kg per degree of rotation for total of 500kg extra spring rate on outside tire. Setting 2) left side short/ right side long: 5 degrees body roll gives 7 degrees of twisting of sway bar at 100kg per degree of rotation for total of 700kg extra spring rate on outside tire. Setting 3) left side long/ right side short: 5 degrees body roll gives 7 degrees of twisting of sway bar at 100kg per degree of rotation for total of 700kg extra spring rate on outside tire. Setting 4) left side short/ right side short: 5 degrees body roll gives 9 degrees of twisting of sway bar at 100kg per degree of rotation for total of 900kg extra spring rate on outside tire. Again, I made these numbers up, but it illustrates the point. Setting #2 and #3 are equivalent since the lever arm lengths are equal on both sides, therefore making the sway bar have 3 different settings. |
05-24-2009, 06:42 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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Phim, your logic is sound... I've made that same argument on this board... It's called an asymmetric setup, and it is used on occassion... whiteline has collected data on it here http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles...metric_adj.pdf ... they concluded that using an asymmetric setting will result in asymmetric anti-sway forces (go figure!)... it's a nuance
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