Steering Wheel Vibration while braking

NewYorkJon34 · 09-19-2011, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

No, the pads suck and you didn't bed them in properly

Ok guy, ya I did bed them in properly, I had both the local Nissan techs & a trusted shop where I get my stuff done say that the front rotors were in fact warped.

ResIpsa · 09-20-2011, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewYorkJon34

Ok guy, ya I did bed them in properly, I had both the local Nissan techs & a trusted shop where I get my stuff done say that the front rotors were in fact warped.

I think the problem is that shops throw around the term “warped” as a catchall for any time a car judders under braking(that is the actual term, not “shudders, vibrates, pulses, etc…”).

I have heard well respected auto mechanics use the term “warped” when diagnosing brake judder. The upside to all of this is that, regardless of what you call it, the solution is basically the same. The rotor needs to be resurfaced.

However, if you, with your infinite knowledge gleamed from this site, understands that judder is caused by uneven pad deposits, you can save some money (gasp! That was a long sentence).

How you ask? Most rotor resurfacing will cost you from $25 to $50 per rotor. New rotors will cost you $150. 50 sheets of Garnet sandpaper will cost you $25 and allow you to resurface you and your entire families rotors (and look like a hero) for years to come.

Caveat. You cannot buy Garnet sandpaper at Lowes or Home Depot. Here is the link. 3M? Paper 110N Sheets

Store bought sand paper is aluminum oxide and could make the problem worse.

I understand that this goes against a very common belief on this forum. Trust the guys who track our cars. We go through rotors exponentially faster than anyone who drives on the street. And we don’t lathe or trash our rotors every time we get brake judder.

And we do get brake judder. I have a poorly fitting set of Porterfield R-4 full race pads if your are interested.

TreeSemdyZee · 09-20-2011, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ResIpsa

I think the problem is that shops throw around the term “warped” as a catchall for any time a car judders under braking(that is the actual term, not “shudders, vibrates, pulses, etc…”).

I have heard well respected auto mechanics use the term “warped” when diagnosing brake judder. The upside to all of this is that, regardless of what you call it, the solution is basically the same. The rotor needs to be resurfaced.

However, if you, with your infinite knowledge gleamed from this site, understands that judder is caused by uneven pad deposits, you can save some money (gasp! That was a long sentence).

How you ask? Most rotor resurfacing will cost you from $25 to $50 per rotor. New rotors will cost you $150. 50 sheets of Garnet sandpaper will cost you $25 and allow you to resurface you and your entire families rotors (and look like a hero) for years to come.

Caveat. You cannot buy Garnet sandpaper at Lowes or Home Depot. Here is the link. 3M? Paper 110N Sheets

Store bought sand paper is aluminum oxide and could make the problem worse.

I understand that this goes against a very common belief on this forum. Trust the guys who track our cars. We go through rotors exponentially faster than anyone who drives on the street. And we don’t lathe or trash our rotors every time we get brake judder.

And we do get brake judder. I have a poorly fitting set of Porterfield R-4 full race pads if your are interested.

Huh. Never heard of the garnet paper. Looks pretty intense.

I believe you 100% in the OP's situation, but just as a footnote, "warping" can happen to cheaper rotors. I had rotors on a car years ago that were badly warped. I think mine may have been caused by a rough curbing incident, so they weren't "warped" per se, but bent. Pretty rare I guess, but possible.

Thanks for the link to the paper. I'm gonna pick some up. With all the hot weather this summer, I've got a slight judder myself.

cossie1600 · 09-20-2011, 12:52 PM

What grit do you use? 80 or 180?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ResIpsa

I think the problem is that shops throw around the term “warped” as a catchall for any time a car judders under braking(that is the actual term, not “shudders, vibrates, pulses, etc…”).

I have heard well respected auto mechanics use the term “warped” when diagnosing brake judder. The upside to all of this is that, regardless of what you call it, the solution is basically the same. The rotor needs to be resurfaced.

However, if you, with your infinite knowledge gleamed from this site, understands that judder is caused by uneven pad deposits, you can save some money (gasp! That was a long sentence).

How you ask? Most rotor resurfacing will cost you from $25 to $50 per rotor. New rotors will cost you $150. 50 sheets of Garnet sandpaper will cost you $25 and allow you to resurface you and your entire families rotors (and look like a hero) for years to come.

Caveat. You cannot buy Garnet sandpaper at Lowes or Home Depot. Here is the link. 3M? Paper 110N Sheets

Store bought sand paper is aluminum oxide and could make the problem worse.

I understand that this goes against a very common belief on this forum. Trust the guys who track our cars. We go through rotors exponentially faster than anyone who drives on the street. And we don’t lathe or trash our rotors every time we get brake judder.

And we do get brake judder. I have a poorly fitting set of Porterfield R-4 full race pads if your are interested.

ResIpsa · 09-21-2011, 07:29 AM

I use 80 grit. I also suggest getting a palm sander or drill adapter.

I use repositionable spray adhesive to attach the sandpaper to the sander.

TWYNBYZ · 09-21-2011, 04:53 PM

Hey guys,

I appreciate all of the dialogue. I'm going to take my car to Fontana Nissan's race shop. The guy who runs the show there (Scott) is a very good friend of mine. Plus, they installed my KW's.

Either way, once I know what the issue is (warped rotors or brakes the need to be bled) I'll report back. However. I must say this is frustrating on a fairly new car. If upgraded rotors will prevent this from happening, I think I'll go that route in addition to some upgraded pads.....

cossie1600 · 09-20-2011, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewYorkJon34

Ok guy, ya I did bed them in properly, I had both the local Nissan techs & a trusted shop where I get my stuff done say that the front rotors were in fact warped.

yup, just like how they tell me i need to top off my brake fluid as pads wear. inflate tires to the sidewall pressure, run 100 octane to get more hp from a stock car.

09-21-2011, 07:29 AM	#5 (permalink)
ResIpsa Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 564 Drives: 09 RACING HEN Rep Power: 339	I use 80 grit. I also suggest getting a palm sander or drill adapter. I use repositionable spray adhesive to attach the sandpaper to the sander. __________________ The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

09-21-2011, 04:53 PM	#6 (permalink)
TWYNBYZ Base Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: S. Cali Posts: 229 Drives: 2013 Pearl White GTR Rep Power: 15	Hey guys, I appreciate all of the dialogue. I'm going to take my car to Fontana Nissan's race shop. The guy who runs the show there (Scott) is a very good friend of mine. Plus, they installed my KW's. Either way, once I know what the issue is (warped rotors or brakes the need to be bled) I'll report back. However. I must say this is frustrating on a fairly new car. If upgraded rotors will prevent this from happening, I think I'll go that route in addition to some upgraded pads..... __________________ 2013 Pearl White GTR

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