yea, glad your back on the road. and for free!

This happened to my2011sportZ also. it had 300~ miles on it.Nissan cut them and it was all gone. I am gonna replace rotors, these should have been Cross drilled/ slotted stock ><

reading all the members comment, most of them prefer resurfacing the rotors for the wrap problem.

are they any other solution in solving the wrap issue, other than resurfacing?

please comment on this.

Resurfacing will solve the problem 99% of the time. The vibration is typically caused by pads leaving deposits on the rotors making them uneven. The only real way to warp these rotors besides them being defective from the start is to hose them down immediately after some spirited driving.

This is correct. It seems everyone here is arguing over warped v pad deposits. I have never seen a warped rotor. Does it matter? Not really, you treat them both the same way by having them turned or resurfaced or buying new ones.

If you want to have your rotor crack, and one of your wheels completely stop spinning when you're at highway speed, which makes the steering wheel jump out of your hand and possibly break your thumb. Then yes, cross drilled rotors are what you need stock.

I am not an engineer, but have 2 friends who are brake engineers and I understand some things. This is a quote taken from me from another thread that no one has read haha.

if we replace the wrap rotors with other rotors, what will be good choice of rotors (brand) to replace with?

I agree, though slots and holes are more for removing gas buildup between pad and rotor rather than reducing mass, which is more of a side effect. Gas buildup was a problem with pads a decade ago, not so much now days.

Z1 2 piece rotors

You don't really need 2 piece rotors, they are for if you track your car often. OEM disk or similar will work fine. Best upgrade you can do it the pads/fluid.

how about the stillen brake cooling?

does it help to prevent the rotor wrap?

how about the stillen brake cooling?

does it help to prevent the rotor wrap?

Could you confirm if your tyres are starting to get close to needing replaced as the vibration through the steering is a common problem when the tyre get low.

geez, how low are you running your tires? :ugh: until air leaks out?

yah, when my tires blow up due to no more rubber left, it automatically notifies me through the steering wheel per vibrations. so then i know its time to change tires.

I ran my '83 200sx brakes till my rear rotors were like two Pink Floyd albums. They were groovy baby. I wasn't able to resurface them though, wasn't enough material left :(

Rotors shouldn't be warping, even under race conditions. They can get build up unevenly on them. Either way, for day to day driving you shouldn't need brake ducting. If so, I'd say this would be a huge liability and nissan would have put out a recall for safety long ago. Maybe try getting different pads.

i've already replaced the oem rotors with the stoptech cross and ventalited discs.
also, i've installed the oem brake pads with project mu b-pads.

with the upgraded rotors and pads, my z still getting the same wraped problem as the previous oem parts.

just wondering, if either the brake duct or bbk might help with wraped issues.

comments...

Warping rotors has to do with your driving style. Some folks are bad about it and others are not. If the brakes are the least bit weak, I will warp them every time. Best thing to do is upgrade if this fits your wonderful abilities. Nissan has always been known for warping rotors.

As noted above he has replaced those parts.

Just a thought, but who's installing the pads/rotors. Improperly installed pads could create uneven wear on the rotors and get them out of balance. I still find it VERY hard to believe you are getting enough heat in your rotors during daily driving to actually warp them. I can't even do that on the track or autocross when my brakes are being used HEAVILY. Do you live in mountains or drag the brakes a bunch?

Most people can't even tell the difference between a warped disc and pad deposit....

True, and the fix for both is the same (resurface or replace rotors). It's just semantics really. But again, probably not warping those rotors.

may i know what type of rotor and brake brands are you using?

For Daily Driving: OEM rotors and PFC OEM replacement Pads, PFC 665 Fluid, Ventus V12
On the Track: Z1 slotted rotors (BPI) and PFC 08 or 01 Race Pads, PFC 665 Fluid, Kuhmho XS 275 all around

I was a little weary of Z1s rotors at first, hopeing I wouldn't pull a Lewis Hamilton, but they have done great at the track.

brake jubber!!
 

I am experiencing the same problem also. I replace the rotors and pads but still getting "brake jubber". Ill try bleeding the brake to see if that resolves the problem

any update on solving your brake issues...