Anyone have luck with slotted rotors?

m4a1mustang · 09-15-2011, 02:05 PM

Everyone seems to be running J-hooks now. Just look NASCAR, ALMS, Grand-Am, etc... everyone's running the J-hook.

ResIpsa · 09-15-2011, 03:57 PM

The slots on the rotor are not there to lower rotor temps.

This may seem counterintuitive but any type of slot or drilled hole in a rotor will increase temperatures. Remember, the rotor is a heat sink. The more metal available to collect and dissipate heat, the lower the rotor temperature will be.

ChrisSlicks · 09-15-2011, 04:21 PM

Yep, slots won't help cool the rotor at all. They will act like a cheese grater on crappy pads however. Run good pads and good fluid at the track and the fade problems will be mostly gone. You may still overheat the rotors by the end of a 20 minute session depending on how fast and hard you are.

These cars are so hard on the brakes that I don't think there is a usable compromise pad that will work on the street and the track. HPS is a good street pad but wont hold up long at the track, HP+ are awful at everything, DTC are decent on track but can't be used on the street. Honestly 2 sets of pads are required. I like the sintered pads for that as there is no bedding required and they handle extreme temps with zero fade.

SPOHN · 09-15-2011, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

HP+ are awful at everything

Stop reminding me. But I am going to go ahead and use them up. Then I'll have to buy some street pads and track pads. Good thing I get hugh discounts on brake stuff.

MattP725 · 09-15-2011, 07:19 PM

I don't think anyone would claim that a slot (less material) would cool a rotor. The point is to relieve gas/liquid off the pad that causes fade. In essence it might "cool" the pad but regardless it could technically decrease fade but I doubt any more than a good set of aftermarket pads would.

ChrisSlicks · 09-15-2011, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattP725

I don't think anyone would claim that a slot (less material) would cool a rotor. The point is to relieve gas/liquid off the pad that causes fade. In essence it might "cool" the pad but regardless it could technically decrease fade but I doubt any more than a good set of aftermarket pads would.

Real pads only off-gas during bed-in, after that there should be next to none. Even modern street pads have hardly any off-gassing thanks to modern binders. If you get a street pad to the temperature that it starts to melt then a spongy pedal feel is a good signal to back the heck off.

edub370 · 09-15-2011, 11:28 PM

so basically carbotechs and motul 600 will make a bigger difference than anything?

m4a1mustang · 09-15-2011, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edub370

so basically carbotechs and motul 600 will make a bigger difference than anything?

Yes.

Guard Dad · 09-16-2011, 12:57 PM

Hi, I've been tracking a number of the brake related threads and I was wondering if Castrol SRF brake fluid would be a good choice as part of a pad and brake fluid upgrade? I know that it's really expensive but considering how much everyone is spending on brake issues it seems well worth it and the boiling-point specs are exceptional wet or dry. It would seem that it would make a significant improvement in preventing brake fluid boiling.

Any thoughts?

ChrisSlicks · 09-16-2011, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guard Dad

Hi, I've been tracking a number of the brake related threads and I was wondering if Castrol SRF brake fluid would be a good choice as part of a pad and brake fluid upgrade? I know that it's really expensive but considering how much everyone is spending on brake issues it seems well worth it and the boiling-point specs are exceptional wet or dry. It would seem that it would make a significant improvement in preventing brake fluid boiling.

Any thoughts?

It is good fluid, just you're paying an arm and a leg. I use Motul 600 or AP 600 and haven't had any boiling. I do a partial bleed of the brakes each event and check for air bubbles. I'd rather keep fresh fluid moving through the system than use super expensive stuff that gets left in there all year.

'10Anamoly · 09-16-2011, 01:12 PM

Just saying, if your car is a DD, I would go with Motul 5.1 brake fluid. It will not absorb moisture like RBF600 and is still much better than stock. It's also less viscous which is good for ABS.

DO NOT USE DOT5 BRAKE FLUID, ONLY 5.1. 5 is a no-no!

Guard Dad · 09-16-2011, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

It is good fluid, just you're paying an arm and a leg. I use Motul 600 or AP 600 and haven't had any boiling. I do a partial bleed of the brakes each event and check for air bubbles. I'd rather keep fresh fluid moving through the system than use super expensive stuff that gets left in there all year.

I was just recalling Car & Driver's retest of the Nismo where even a pad and fluid upgrade failed to prevent the fluid from boiling.

So from your experience on the track you've had no fluid related problems when using Motul 600 or AP 600 fluids? That's good news.

cossie1600 · 09-16-2011, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

Stop reminding me. But I am going to go ahead and use them up. Then I'll have to buy some street pads and track pads. Good thing I get hugh discounts on brake stuff.

You will need new rotors after the HP+ chew it up at the track....

cossie1600 · 09-16-2011, 01:25 PM

I use Amsoil and they have been fine.

ResIpsa · 09-16-2011, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guard Dad

Hi, I've been tracking a number of the brake related threads and I was wondering if Castrol SRF brake fluid would be a good choice as part of a pad and brake fluid upgrade? I know that it's really expensive but considering how much everyone is spending on brake issues it seems well worth it and the boiling-point specs are exceptional wet or dry. It would seem that it would make a significant improvement in preventing brake fluid boiling.

Any thoughts?

I only use Castrol SRF on the track. Worth every penny...

09-15-2011, 02:05 PM	#16 (permalink)
m4a1mustang A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 55,385 Drives: on two wheels Rep Power: 6962	Everyone seems to be running J-hooks now. Just look NASCAR, ALMS, Grand-Am, etc... everyone's running the J-hook. __________________ - Steve Zs & Coffee - Saturdays at 10AM in Fairfax, VA and Columbia, MD (Click the banner!) LIKE us on Facebook!

09-15-2011, 03:57 PM	#17 (permalink)
ResIpsa Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 564 Drives: 09 RACING HEN Rep Power: 338	The slots on the rotor are not there to lower rotor temps. This may seem counterintuitive but any type of slot or drilled hole in a rotor will increase temperatures. Remember, the rotor is a heat sink. The more metal available to collect and dissipate heat, the lower the rotor temperature will be. __________________ The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

09-15-2011, 04:21 PM	#18 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	Yep, slots won't help cool the rotor at all. They will act like a cheese grater on crappy pads however. Run good pads and good fluid at the track and the fade problems will be mostly gone. You may still overheat the rotors by the end of a 20 minute session depending on how fast and hard you are. These cars are so hard on the brakes that I don't think there is a usable compromise pad that will work on the street and the track. HPS is a good street pad but wont hold up long at the track, HP+ are awful at everything, DTC are decent on track but can't be used on the street. Honestly 2 sets of pads are required. I like the sintered pads for that as there is no bedding required and they handle extreme temps with zero fade. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

09-15-2011, 11:28 PM	#22 (permalink)
edub370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2011 Location: KCMO Posts: 3,458 Drives: 09 370z S/T 6MT Rep Power: 20	so basically carbotechs and motul 600 will make a bigger difference than anything? __________________ 09 370Z ST 6MT//Injen CAI//Greddy CBE//TP//TSW's//Swifts//Stillen lip//Whiteline sways 326whp/268tq

09-16-2011, 01:12 PM	#26 (permalink)
'10Anamoly Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: GA Posts: 882 Drives: 2010 370Z BS M6 Rep Power: 16	Just saying, if your car is a DD, I would go with Motul 5.1 brake fluid. It will not absorb moisture like RBF600 and is still much better than stock. It's also less viscous which is good for ABS. DO NOT USE DOT5 BRAKE FLUID, ONLY 5.1. 5 is a no-no! __________________ 2013 Ford Mustang GT 374rwhp, 360rwtq SAE / GT500 Axle-Backs / Brembo Pack / Track Pack / Recaros / 6spd

09-15-2011, 07:19 PM	#20 (permalink)
MattP725 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2011 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 1,904 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 17	I don't think anyone would claim that a slot (less material) would cool a rotor. The point is to relieve gas/liquid off the pad that causes fade. In essence it might "cool" the pad but regardless it could technically decrease fade but I doubt any more than a good set of aftermarket pads would.

09-16-2011, 12:57 PM	#24 (permalink)
Guard Dad Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South Orange County, CA Posts: 422 Drives: 2010 370Z Silver A7 Rep Power: 15	Hi, I've been tracking a number of the brake related threads and I was wondering if Castrol SRF brake fluid would be a good choice as part of a pad and brake fluid upgrade? I know that it's really expensive but considering how much everyone is spending on brake issues it seems well worth it and the boiling-point specs are exceptional wet or dry. It would seem that it would make a significant improvement in preventing brake fluid boiling. Any thoughts?

09-16-2011, 01:25 PM	#29 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	I use Amsoil and they have been fine.

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