Anyone have luck with slotted rotors?

edub370

So i think we all know our cars brakes have their.... "issues" to say the least (COUGH car and driver). I know a lot of this has been contributed to them overheating. i see a lot of discussion about running ducts from the fangs to cool the pads/rotors in order to get some fresh air in there, which sounds like a logical solution. However, i dont see much about people upgrading the rotors.

I plan on hitting the track a couple times soon and am somewhat worried about the dramatic fade i have been hearing about. i drive my car on the streets mostly so i dont want to do any "pure track" upgrades to my brakes. So far i am looking to go to motul rbf 600 fluid and hawk hps pads..?

My question is, would sotted/drilled rotors possibly aleviate some of the brake fading issues that people are experiencing on track days?

Any other brake upgrades that help this fading problem?

Also, anyone with good recommendations for pads that work well on the street and for occasional track use would be greatly appreciated. i want something that can hadle an auto-x/occasional trask sessions, but arent noisy as hell, dusty as hell, and tear up my rotors.

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m4a1mustang

The brake fade/failures are all attributed to the stock pad and/or fluid.

The stock pads are not up to the task of track duty. And the DOT 3 oem fluid can boil quickly in a track environment. The rotors themselves are not the problem.

Upgrade your pads and fluid (track ready pad and a DOT-4 fluid) and you will be good to go for a track day.

I know you don't want pure track upgrades, but the pads and fluid are necessary if you want to last on track (in addition to an oil cooler of course). Pads are easy enough to swap in and out for a track day.

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edub370

i think a brake fluid upgrade would be smart. i have thought about jsut buying a seperate set of pads and swapping them out but i didnt know if there were any pads that performed both duties well.

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m4a1mustang

It's all a trade off. Track pads are designed to work in high temperatures... they can get you hurt on the street because you won't be able to keep them hot enough and they won't stop well.

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Lemers

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RoshDawg

What about track fluids? Do you really have to flush every time before n after a track day?

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m4a1mustang

Everyone's track days are different, so I think it really depends. I am sure some will tell you that you need to do it for each track days, others might say otherwise. A Dot 4 fluid will definitely need to be bled more often than a Dot 3, though.

Hopefully some of the 370 track junkies can chime in here soon with their thoughts.

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edub370

^^ agreed. where are the track gurus when you need em!?

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sig11

I run my XP10/XP8 combo all the time and I'm running Powerslot rotors now. I am planning on getting a set of Carbotech Bobcats to run on the street since they're supposed to be a compatible compound with the XP pads and I'm getting tired of the ear-piercing screeching whenever I brake lightly.

Ideally I would change every couple track weekends... but I'm mostly lazy and I haven't had much trouble yet.

SPOHN

If your worried about fade I wouldn't get the Hawks pads. I have the HP+ and they have let me down on a couple of occasions on spirited driving and I'm about to take them to the track in two weeks. Boooo. But I'm at least going to get the most I can out of them then I'm going to get some Carbotechs (XP 8's for myself). Then something else for driving on the streets, maybe. For I don't DD.

Slotted rotors help move gas and heat away from the surface of the rotor. But also can reduce the life of pads also. On of those trade off deals.

But your best bet is get some good (great) pads for the track and keep you stock pads for DD along with getting SS lines and good fluid.

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Scott@FontanaNissan

Hey Guys!

Just thought i'd chime in here if y'all don't mind. I've been racing and instructing for a little over 6 years now.

The problem with fade is cause by the OE pads heating up...heat transferring to the brake lines, fluid boiling and expanding in the OE rubber brake lines.

Stainless lines, Motul RBF600 or Endless RF650, and a higher temp pad should solve that problem.

I would stick with your rotors until they are done, and then upgrade to a slotted rotor to help aid in cooling. I dont recommend drilled rotors and they have a tendency to crack, and the holes just fill up with brake dust anyway! I have a rotor on display in my shop for those that insist otherwise.

As for pads, I'd recommend something like the Endless MX72 pads...they are a great pad that does well on the street and beginner/intermediate track driving. You will also find that they are quieter and less dust than the stock pads.

I'm a dealer for all this stuff...so if you need help with anything, feel free to shoot me a pm and i'll do what i can to help out!

Scott VanderHeide
Motorsports Director
Fontana Nissan
800-989-6173 x2253

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edub370

great info scott. i'll have to look into taht form you guys, seeing as you guys just hooked me up with lightning fast shipping for my swifts!

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Scott@FontanaNissan

No problem! Anything you need, just let me know!

Scott

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SPOHN

Scott I sent you a PM

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MattP725

Heating also partially liquifies the surface on a lesser pad which contributes. That is why they slot rotors, to alieviate the gas build up on the pad surface.

I always kinda felt they were somewhat of a scam (not literally but just not worth the money).