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-   -   Performance dampener w/ swift springs (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/39893-performance-dampener-w-swift-springs.html)

DJ-of-E 07-22-2011 06:25 PM

Performance dampener w/ swift springs
 
After using the "search" button, seems like shocks go bad after 25,000 miles of use?

These swift springs also recommend performance dampeners. What would constitute a performance dampener with these swift springs?

Baer383 07-22-2011 06:57 PM

Swift spring were developed to work specifically with OEM struts you should get 50k out of your front struts.

chuckd05 07-22-2011 10:35 PM

Ive had springs on for almost 20k miles... Eibachs. And my shocks are just fine...

when they go bad I will get coilovers

roplusbee 07-23-2011 08:17 AM

Just a quick quote from the Swift SpecR description:

Swift made Sport Springs Spec-R is made for true track racing enthusiasts that wants to take their vehicle to the next level.
Sport Springs Spec-R is engineered with 2 main characteristics.

1 Redesign lowering ride height to maximize the suspension performance allowing the vehicle to fully absorb road condition for maximum traction.

2 Increase in spring rate to further enhance cornering speed through entry & exit. The increase in spring rate is based on the vehicle factory stock valving settings. Sport Springs Spec-R is increase to the optimal rate that the stock shocks can handle. Higher performance shocks are not required, but recommended.

So, you can go with coilovers and have the extra comfort of feeling safer (knowing that they were designed to work as a unit), purchase performance dampers, or just run the springs until you need dampers and get performance parts at that time. I say just run the springs until you NEED to change out dampers.............

corner3garage 07-25-2011 04:00 AM

For many of our customers that run a "performance spring" we recommend performance dampers. These can range from Tokico blue's to adjustable versions like KYB AGX and KONI Yellow dampers. For customers that are more street driven I would recommend non-adjustable as they are cheaper and you dont really need the adjustment for the street, but as for customers that auto-x(some classes only allow springs and shocks) and track, we recommend adjustable.

kenchan 07-25-2011 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corner3garage (Post 1228543)
For many of our customers that run a "performance spring" we recommend performance dampers. These can range from Tokico blue's to adjustable versions like KYB AGX and KONI Yellow dampers. For customers that are more street driven I would recommend non-adjustable as they are cheaper and you dont really need the adjustment for the street, but as for customers that auto-x(some classes only allow springs and shocks) and track, we recommend adjustable.

do you actually have koni yellows for our cars or are you just posting general comments?

corner3garage 07-25-2011 04:31 PM

I was just stating that generally we recommend upgraded dampers for our customers, as we have with the 350z's. Last I spoke to Koni the 370z Dampers are still in development.

KamiSpeed 07-25-2011 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ-of-E (Post 1225880)
After using the "search" button, seems like shocks go bad after 25,000 miles of use?

These swift springs also recommend performance dampeners. What would constitute a performance dampener with these swift springs?

yea like everyone says, swift designed their springs for the oem shocks... so they won't damage the shocks any worse than stock springs... though with improved handling you'll probably drive more aggressive haha, anywho they're in stock if you want them or need pricing

cossie1600 07-25-2011 07:13 PM

they are more than 20 to 30% stiffer in rate than stock. how do you feel if i give you 20 to 30% extra work load with no other compensation. it's common sense.

Red__Zed 07-25-2011 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corner3garage (Post 1228543)
For many of our customers that run a "performance spring" we recommend performance dampers. These can range from Tokico blue's to adjustable versions like KYB AGX and KONI Yellow dampers. For customers that are more street driven I would recommend non-adjustable as they are cheaper and you dont really need the adjustment for the street, but as for customers that auto-x(some classes only allow springs and shocks) and track, we recommend adjustable.

got any of those available?:shakes head:

kenchan 07-26-2011 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600 (Post 1229693)
they are more than 20 to 30% stiffer in rate than stock. how do you feel if i give you 20 to 30% extra work load with no other compensation. it's common sense.

cossie- im impressed with your explanation. :tup:

most people run 20-25mm spacers so that will reduce wheel rate considerably and lower the extra work load to maybe 3-5%? (just a guess)

which brings me to the reason of posting just like KamiSpeed... my 25mm H&R spacers are for sale in the for sale section. lol

cossie1600 07-26-2011 01:20 PM

slow work day for us both....

i am just cheap. even though i have never kept a car more than 3 years, but i really dont want to prematurely kill my struts/shocks unless i am doing other dumb things (like ice racing a prius)

Red__Zed 07-26-2011 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1231030)
cossie- im impressed with your explanation. :tup:

most people run 20-25mm spacers so that will reduce wheel rate considerably and lower the extra work load to maybe 3-5%? (just a guess)

which brings me to the reason of posting just like KamiSpeed... my 25mm H&R spacers are for sale in the for sale section. lol

Why would spacers help?

KamiSpeed 07-26-2011 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1231030)
which brings me to the reason of posting just like KamiSpeed... my 25mm H&R spacers are for sale in the for sale section. lol

touche

kenchan 07-26-2011 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed (Post 1231092)
Why would spacers help?

basically like attaching a pipe over your breaker bar to get more leverage.

your wheel rate is the spring rate at the wheel instead of at the shell of the strut assembly or spring carrier in the back. the more you push out the wheel, the more leverage you get...easier to compress the springs so softens the ride.

for bound it makes it worse for the strut, rebound, makes it easier. there's give and take. usually people notice rebound undulations more, thus a lot of european dampers are only rebound adjustable vs simulateous.

cossie1600 07-26-2011 04:24 PM

you forgot the part about wearing the hub and studs out

kenchan 07-26-2011 04:48 PM

:confused:

cossie1600 07-26-2011 05:42 PM

Spacers can wear out hubs too, same with heavy rims/tires.

DJ-of-E 07-26-2011 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corner3garage (Post 1228543)
For many of our customers that run a "performance spring" we recommend performance dampers. These can range from Tokico blue's to adjustable versions like KYB AGX and KONI Yellow dampers. For customers that are more street driven I would recommend non-adjustable as they are cheaper and you dont really need the adjustment for the street, but as for customers that auto-x(some classes only allow springs and shocks) and track, we recommend adjustable.

Yeah, I want to do some "light" auto-x on the car as well, so I want to do my homework on the suspension to gain a little more cornering performance, but still retain enough of the comfort.

Otherwise, I would probably rather get the Tanabe Sustec Pro and have it installed there.

I'm trying to think of the pros and cons with the Swift Springs vs Tanabe Sustec being sold by Corner3 and have it installed there. I would like to install it on my own, but I'm hitting a point of my life where I don't have the time or energy to work on 2 cars at the same time. Also, after installation of either one, would camber kits be needed?

kenchan 07-26-2011 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600 (Post 1231570)
Spacers can wear out hubs too, same with heavy rims/tires.

You mean the wheel bearings? Yah, if you like hellaflushthetoilet. :icon17:

cossie1600 07-26-2011 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1231668)
You mean the wheel bearings? Yah, if you like hellaflushthetoilet. :icon17:

Technically yes as most hub cracking are caused by wheel bearing failures. I don't think you can change the hub without the bearing on the Z (I just saw a guy changing it on a 350 at the track Sunday).

Daishi9000 07-27-2011 01:33 PM

are the stock shocks and springs the same on a sport and non sport?

Red__Zed 07-27-2011 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daishi9000 (Post 1232931)
are the stock shocks and springs the same on a sport and non sport?

Yes.

cossie1600 07-27-2011 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ-of-E (Post 1231617)
Yeah, I want to do some "light" auto-x on the car as well, so I want to do my homework on the suspension to gain a little more cornering performance, but still retain enough of the comfort.

Otherwise, I would probably rather get the Tanabe Sustec Pro and have it installed there.

I'm trying to think of the pros and cons with the Swift Springs vs Tanabe Sustec being sold by Corner3 and have it installed there. I would like to install it on my own, but I'm hitting a point of my life where I don't have the time or energy to work on 2 cars at the same time. Also, after installation of either one, would camber kits be needed?

save your money and get tires.. springs will knock you into a class that you wont be able to win anyway

Daishi9000 07-27-2011 02:50 PM

Ok, thanks!

kenchan 07-27-2011 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600 (Post 1233074)
save your money and get tires..

:iagree: if you increase spring rate and/or damp rate, or even just the swaybars you put more burden on the tires. if you want to do handling mods correctly, do the tires first. :)

DJ-of-E 07-27-2011 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1233131)
:iagree: if you increase spring rate and/or damp rate, or even just the swaybars you put more burden on the tires. if you want to do handling mods correctly, do the tires first. :)

I'm still on stock sport rims. What tires should I get to replace with? Wouldn't better tires be around racing compound? Isn't that asking for bumping up a class anyways, wouldn't it?

cossie1600 07-28-2011 12:32 AM

It depends on the local club. Our club doesn't allow R comps in stock class, but SCCA and most others will. The street/race tires from Bridgestone/Kumho/Nitto/Hankook/Yokomama are about 1.5-3 sec slower than A6s, but it will be way better than your stock or the stupid V12s or whatever. It's an expensive way to go, but the better tires are better than any stupid spring setup you are going to put in your car. I believe Tirerack tested a full spring kit, the car gained .4 sec on their 30 sec course or something, which is nothing compared to a set of decent tires.

kenchan 07-28-2011 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ-of-E (Post 1233599)
I'm still on stock sport rims. What tires should I get to replace with? Wouldn't better tires be around racing compound? Isn't that asking for bumping up a class anyways, wouldn't it?

if you want to keep it Bridgestone people use RE11, i'd get another set of S04 pole positions for my car. they stick considerably better than the RE050A's and super sticky in the rain.

also note that there is a difference between RE050A and RE050A Polepositions. (RE050A PP's were discontinued replaced by S04 Polepositions).

also try the Pilot SuperSports. :D

the Continental DW's are pretty good too and sticks better than the stock RE050A's but it's a softer ride... not sure if you want that or not. for me it gives me a more touring car feel so it's not bad. i won't be buying another set though.

christian370z 07-28-2011 09:55 PM

Kenchan, how is the sidewall stiffness on the Polepositions? Same as the RE050s?


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