I haven't had any problem with the rears. Most of us are running one pad step down for the rear so that the rear doesn't lock up as easily.

WOW since 2010 jejeje.

just wanted to give my input in case this problem hasn't been resolved.

OK so, after reading every page on this thread Id like to make my input. Ive been to the same track over 30 times and driven more than 5 different cars. there are 2 layouts, 1) the whole track and 2) a smaller layout with tighter turns that would somewhat replicate auto X.

I went to to the track with my stock Z and experienced ice mode in the smaller layout, it was ridiculous. Didn't have any problems in layout 1.

Made some changes to the brakes, SS lines, motul 600 fluid, EBC yellow stuff pads, cooking ducts and in layout 1, the brakes are MONEY with the stock suspension. HOWEVER when I had the tein lowering springs, Ice mode came in pretty much every corner on layout number 1 (tein springs are progressive and way too soft for the track). So looking that some guys have higher spring rates in the front (18k) and Ice mode went away, I assume that the problem is in the rear like some of you have said.

Another member posted that he went with some carbotech 10 front and 8 rear and ice mode went away.

I went to the track last wee and went around layout number 1 and didn't experience ice mode (stock suspension), however yestersay, with the EXACT same set up I experienced ice mode in making stops from about 60 to 20 and 50 to 20. not just once but like 3 or 4 times.

Would it help if I go with some less aggressive pads on the rear?

I will leave my Z stock since I have another car that's for tracking only with no ABS :)

It's a complex issue for sure. The bottom line seems to be that the best way to trigger ice mode is to have 1-2 wheels lock up, even for a split second, when the other wheels are still spinning and have a good margin of traction just based on speed sensor inputs and whatnot. Depending on suspension and brake config, usually what ends up happening is you're getting one or both rear wheels to momentarily lock up while the front still has grip left, and that pushes it into ice mode.

The rear has that tendency to "artificially" lock up early because the stock rear calipers are just a bit oversized compared to what they really need to be, and depending on your suspension config the rear can also be a little "skippy"... by which I mean if there's ripples in the pavement under braking, the suspension might let a rear tire catch air for a split second, during which time it immediately locks up and triggers ice-mode. Hell even if the rear tire doesn't actually get free of the pavement, just the suspension response to the ripple could unload enough weight from one or both rear tires to let them lock up faster.

Biasing the brakes via pad choice definitely helps - weaken the rear pad's bite and it's less likely to do the above under heavy braking. Softening the swaybar in the rear (e.g. go less-stiff on the Hotchkis settings) can make the rear maintain better traction under braking on an uneven surface as well. Of course all this about the rear is what most of us seem to experience, but someone's car could be producing ice-mode in a totally different way (e.g. via front lockup) if their suspension/brake setup is unusual and different.

Where can I find the diagram for the whole braking system on our cars? I have someone who would like to take a look at it.

search this forum for "service manual"

There is nothing to look at unless you want to reprogram the abs conputer

Yep you can minimize but not eliminate this problem. But minimizing means not braking at threshold and being very smooth with brake modulation. In general you want pads that don't have much initial bite if you keep stock abs system. To be frank if your an aggressive corner entry braker stock z abs probably isn't going to be for you.

I wonder if Nissan has changed any of abs programming on newer cars? Or have they just left wonky abs system that came in the car initially?

There doesn't seem to be much ongoing engineering on this platform at all... stark contrast vs GTR

Just so I don't read a million posts, no ones opened the fuse with the abs, vvel and power windows and broke the tab to sever the connection on the abs? Or no ones tried to install 3 separate fuses in that location? What about killing power to the abs by unplugging it?

^ 14 pages my friend, and yes those have been covered

And?? The car doesn't have standard brakes still and will just lock up?

Okay the brake cooling ducts and the biasing of the pads aren't going to solve your ice mode problem as I can still get it at will. I am sure it helped minimize it, but you will still get it. The problem lies in the programming of the ABS computers, there is nothing to get around it other than buying a new Bosch computer at a couple thousands.