Brake job, now brakes pull the car left

Cmike2780 · 06-16-2011, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unclemeaty

Update:

I just replaced the factory lines with aftermarket stainless ones built by Forged Performance; plus sucked out -all- the fluid and filled it with fresh Motul Dot4. Seems the problem is much much better now; to the point where I'd have to say its just about perfect. One things I did still notice is that the after a few hard stops I get out to check the termperature of my rotors with an IR Heat-gun. i find the left front is still running about 5-9% hotter than the right front, but the rear rotors now equalize in temperature.

So I'll have to give it a few days, but so far so good and the car brakes a bunch better than before. I'll probably give it just a few days and bleed the brakes one last time before I call it quits.

Either I had some air or a kink in the lines.

Unclemeaty · 04-03-2012, 01:57 PM

Well, It's been about a year since I had to deal with this issue. To date I've done the following:

Car now has 52,xxx miles, with about 20k on the brakes.
Changed the lines to stainless and the fluid to Motul.
Bled the brakes from the caliper side of things about a half dozen times.
Bled the ABS unit one time

By now I've learned to just live with the problem, where under normal driving/braking theres not much issue. Still though, under severe braking I am able to get the front left tire to almost lock while the right is still operating at about 90%. You can imagine the car does tend to wonder/vere to the left. For the past I've burned into my brian - countersteer under hard braking - if there is such a thing. My best car buddy drove my car the other week and said he hated how my brakes react and recommended I bleed them again.

So now I'm back on top of this. Could there be a problem with the master brake cylinder not applying even pressure to both halves of the system? its about the only thing I have left to check. Also now since I have a bunch of miles on these pads; I'll probably check again for un-even wear for a stuck caliper.

Any other ideas? I found some online place which sells rebuild kits for calipers so thats a good avenue. What about master cyl rebuild kits?

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04-03-2012, 01:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
Unclemeaty Base Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 203 Drives: 150cc Scooter Rep Power: 15	Well, It's been about a year since I had to deal with this issue. To date I've done the following: Car now has 52,xxx miles, with about 20k on the brakes. Changed the lines to stainless and the fluid to Motul. Bled the brakes from the caliper side of things about a half dozen times. Bled the ABS unit one time By now I've learned to just live with the problem, where under normal driving/braking theres not much issue. Still though, under severe braking I am able to get the front left tire to almost lock while the right is still operating at about 90%. You can imagine the car does tend to wonder/vere to the left. For the past I've burned into my brian - countersteer under hard braking - if there is such a thing. My best car buddy drove my car the other week and said he hated how my brakes react and recommended I bleed them again. So now I'm back on top of this. Could there be a problem with the master brake cylinder not applying even pressure to both halves of the system? its about the only thing I have left to check. Also now since I have a bunch of miles on these pads; I'll probably check again for un-even wear for a stuck caliper. Any other ideas? I found some online place which sells rebuild kits for calipers so thats a good avenue. What about master cyl rebuild kits?