Hey guys, Just like the title says I am debating between getting coilovers or springs. My plan is to mildly drop the car (0.9" F and 0.8" R), but I
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10-23-2010, 05:24 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Debating between COILOVERS or SPRINGS
Hey guys,
Just like the title says I am debating between getting coilovers or springs. My plan is to mildly drop the car (0.9" F and 0.8" R), but I will also be doing some track days too. However, the price of coilovers are way high and I am thinking maybe I should go with lowering springs with rear camber arm kit? If I do go with coilovers, I am definitely going with KW Variant 3's. What do you guys recommend? Also, since I'm doing less than a inch drop on both Front and Rear, I wouldn't need camber arm kits right? Or do I? Sorry for so many questions. I have used search function to look for similar case, but I am not finding it. Thanks! I have read that lowering springs are not adjustable in any way. |
10-23-2010, 05:29 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Spend your money one time. Go with coilovers!
Tracking on lowering springs leave no way to adjust, and fine tune the suspension. I'm on Eibach springs, with the Spc rear camber kit. I've found limits to the Eibachs on Hard driving. Its setup for dropping it slightly and daily driving. I feel that I need some fine tuning, and I'm only going to get that thru coilovers. That is on my wishlist. Last edited by Trips; 10-23-2010 at 05:42 PM. |
10-23-2010, 08:04 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Unless u can find adjustable dampers like koni yellows or tokico/hitachi d-specs dont waste ur money on springs. Ull end up getting dampers later anyways or coilovers all together.
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10-23-2010, 09:39 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Lowering springs for looks and coilovers for performance.
I have Tein MonoFlex coilovers and did a "mild" drop...3/4" in the front and 1/2" rear. I also go to the track once or twice a month in the summer time. From the reading I did on this forum, it was speculated that a drop of less than 1" didn't require camber kits. I can tell you first hand that this statement is false. If you don't mind your camber being a little out of spec, I suppose you could let it slide. It's my experience that even with the mild drop that I did, along with the use of spacers, my camber was enough out of spec that I decided to go ahead with installing camber kits. Front camber is not adjustable with the stock upper control arm. If you want/need to adjust the front camber after lowering (e.g. reduce negative camber to bring back to spec or increase negative camber to improve turn in response at the track) you'll need to buy a front camber kit. For our cars, it is a replacement front upper control arm. In the rear, negative camber as a result of lowering can be brought back to a certain degree with the stock components. I think they were able to bring my rear back to -2.4 degrees (from -2.9) without a camber kit. Nissan recommends up to -2.2 degrees, so in my case there was a 0.2 deg difference...not too big a difference. However, I wanted my final camber in the rear to be -2.0, so I opted to get both front and rear camber kits (SPC). Make sure you get the rear kit with camber arms, not just bolts only. This allows for greater adjustablility. You could do a wheel alignment after installing coilovers (wait 1-2 weeks to allow the springs to settle first) and see how far out of spec you are before deciding whether or not you want/need camber kits. However, in my opinion if you're going to bother getting coilovers, you might as well do it right and get the camber kits done as well. That way you can adjust your ride properly, front and rear. In fact, I also recommend, if you go to the track or do autocross, you should get your car corner balanced after the spings settle. Corner balancing and wheel alignment can be done together. Corner balancing fine tunes your suspension so that the cross weights (FR + RL = FL + RR) of your car are the same, and thus the car will respond the same while making left hand or right hand maneuvers. This is something that needs to be done once so long as your ride height is not altered...anyhow, that's some more food for thought for you.
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2012 GT-R Black Edition Jet Black 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary // SOLD Last edited by djpathfinder; 10-23-2010 at 09:46 PM. |
10-23-2010, 11:06 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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yes on coilovers... the jump from springs to kwv3's is pretty big... you might think about bc racing br/er series, which would save you some $$... i use ER series for competition paired with 18/16k springs
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10-23-2010, 11:11 PM | #12 (permalink) | |
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10-23-2010, 11:14 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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I was comparing between KW V3's and BC Racing ER type coilovers, but I decided on KW V3's because of their progressive spring rates, however BC Racing type ER IS cheaper than KW V3's I gotta tell you that. At the moment, I am leaning towards KW V3's more than BC Racing ER's. Who knows? I might change my decision when that day comes!
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10-23-2010, 11:32 PM | #15 (permalink) | |
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