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Swift springs review!!!!!

Nah...I'm alright with a little negative camber than stock. I don't see a point in a camber kit just to correct a little negative camber. If I end up at

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Old 07-05-2012, 07:29 PM   #1216 (permalink)
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Nah...I'm alright with a little negative camber than stock. I don't see a point in a camber kit just to correct a little negative camber. If I end up at -2.5...fine with me!!

For those that have installed yourself...did you go by this DIY:
DIY: 370Z Lowering Spring Install
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:09 PM   #1217 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by joshs09slvrZ View Post
Nah...I'm alright with a little negative camber than stock. I don't see a point in a camber kit just to correct a little negative camber. If I end up at -2.5...fine with me!!

For those that have installed yourself...did you go by this DIY:
DIY: 370Z Lowering Spring Install
That's what I thought until I hit the alignment rack and saw the -2.8 on the rears! And that was max adjusted....

Not good for the new tires and especially not good for my 305's!

This is my contact area on the -2.8:
( car is on jackstands hence the skewed look of the camber)

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Old 07-11-2012, 09:47 PM   #1218 (permalink)
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Swift springs arrived today! Spent some time after work getting the rear springs installed and then will do the fronts tomorrow after work. I took the car for a quick test drive after I finished...and even with just the rears...the car already felt better and more stable. Here's a quick picture of the rear driver's side after the test drive:



I'll post more pictures tomorrow of everything else.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:35 PM   #1219 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by joshs09slvrZ View Post
Swift springs arrived today! Spent some time after work getting the rear springs installed and then will do the fronts tomorrow after work. I took the car for a quick test drive after I finished...and even with just the rears...the car already felt better and more stable. Here's a quick picture of the rear driver's side after the test drive:



I'll post more pictures tomorrow of everything else.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:35 PM   #1220 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
That's what I thought until I hit the alignment rack and saw the -2.8 on the rears! And that was max adjusted....

Not good for the new tires and especially not good for my 305's!

This is my contact area on the -2.8:
( car is on jackstands hence the skewed look of the camber)

Yes, that is a bit too negative.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #1221 (permalink)
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-1.2 is the current setup. Much better....
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #1222 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
-1.2 is the current setup. Much better....
I am around -1.6.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:57 PM   #1223 (permalink)
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-2 on my Zehind! Ouch!
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:26 AM   #1224 (permalink)
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Noob question: can you get it back to 0.0? I'm not tryin to squeeze every last ounce of handling out of her, I just want it to look nice. I'm also not super rich so I would like my tires to last as long as possible I stead of wearing through on one side. Can all that negative camber be put back to oem specs with the aftermarket arms?


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Old 07-12-2012, 01:03 AM   #1225 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Huck View Post
Noob question: can you get it back to 0.0? I'm not tryin to squeeze every last ounce of handling out of her, I just want it to look nice. I'm also not super rich so I would like my tires to last as long as possible I stead of wearing through on one side. Can all that negative camber be put back to oem specs with the aftermarket arms?


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You don't want 0 camber. Even the stock setup has some negative camber to aide with handling and response. Negative camber yields more grip. 0-1 degree of negative camber is better for tire wear, 1-2 degrees of negative camber is the optimal performance range for most cars while not completely sacrificing tire wear.

Basically, you want enough camber to enhance grip but not enough to put excessive pressure on the inside corner of the tire.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:05 AM   #1226 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
Noob question: can you get it back to 0.0? I'm not tryin to squeeze every last ounce of handling out of her, I just want it to look nice. I'm also not super rich so I would like my tires to last as long as possible I stead of wearing through on one side. Can all that negative camber be put back to oem specs with the aftermarket arms?


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correct me if I'm wrong, but a little bit of negative camber is good for the car performance-wise.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:23 AM   #1227 (permalink)
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So if I am doing mountain roads at 80-90% about half of the time I drive, should I get ~1.5 degrees negative on fronts and rears?
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:42 AM   #1228 (permalink)
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Is -1.3 front and -1.6/-2.0 rear camber ok?

Stock front range is 0.1 to -1.4

Stock rear range is -1.2 to -2.2
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:15 AM   #1229 (permalink)
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Is -1.3 front and -1.6/-2.0 rear camber ok?

Stock front range is 0.1 to -1.4

Stock rear range is -1.2 to -2.2

Yes I have that set up -1.4 front and -2 rear.
If you like driving hard on sharp curves this would be like a car on rails of a roller coaster.
Mine is not my DD. So Im good with this set up
If its your DD then a -1.2 to -1.5 is good to save on tires.
With my current set up with swift springs and V12 305's if it was my DD i should be getting about 6 to 10K miles on tires. Bummer right? This is my Ave daily miles of 140miles/day.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:24 AM   #1230 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by christian370z View Post
You don't want 0 camber. Even the stock setup has some negative camber to aide with handling and response. Negative camber yields more grip. 0-1 degree of negative camber is better for tire wear, 1-2 degrees of negative camber is the optimal performance range for most cars while not completely sacrificing tire wear.

Basically, you want enough camber to enhance grip but not enough to put excessive pressure on the inside corner of the tire.

A zero camber is only good if you drag race on a straight line.
But if you like to track or drive hard on curves then you loose grip and would be dangerous.
Besides Nissan designed the car to handle great on turns to take >1 g.

I would think you will loose what you have paid for... the performance of the car. That is the same reason why I got this Z vs the Z4M.

The Z4 is a better DD but performance wise the Z would be the best car under 50K.
Which you only get on a supercar.
I always say I have a poor mans Porsche.
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