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Originally Posted by Red__Zed I don't have enough grip up front. Why would I want to reduce front camber? My plan is to go with a front camber kit, and

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Old 05-20-2011, 11:58 PM   #631 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
I don't have enough grip up front. Why would I want to reduce front camber?

My plan is to go with a front camber kit, and I think I'm going to try to run around 2.5* of camber up front. I'm also looking to go with a square setup, which should help dial out understeer as well.

Why do you suggest different camber on each side?
Less on the drivers side because with you in the car, it evens out
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:59 PM   #632 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Volcom370Z View Post
Less on the drivers side because with you in the car, it evens out
I do alignment with me in the car...it's the only way to do it right.
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Old 05-21-2011, 02:23 AM   #633 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZForce View Post
I know you have already gone for 2 alignments...but you may want to try my set up to give you more front tire grip. That is to back off the rear camber to a difference of 0.3 more postive from what you are running up front.

If I recall you are runnming:

Driver Front:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.4*

Pass Front:
Camber:-1.5
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.7*


I would suggest running the Rear camber at -1.1 drivers side and -1.2 passenger side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red__Zed View Post
I don't have enough grip up front. Why would I want to reduce front camber?

My plan is to go with a front camber kit, and I think I'm going to try to run around 2.5* of camber up front. I'm also looking to go with a square setup, which should help dial out understeer as well.

Why do you suggest different camber on each side?
No not the front camber but the rear. Different camber on rears based on non adjustable control arms up front. It makes the rear the 0.3 difference from the front.

So if you have up front (drivers side) -1.4 then the drivers side rear should be 0.3 difference which places it at -1.1. Same would go for the passenger side, whatever the non adjustable front is then minus 0.3 and you get your setting for the rear camber. Therefore no matter what the fronts are reading on camber the rears would be 0.3 difference on both sides on the rear.


As far as the 0.3 degrees difference goes, thats about normal for a front engine rear drive street car. The reason you need more negative camber up front....that's because the car has a front biased weight distribution (as front engine cars usually do). That means that in corners, the front is going to have more inertia than the rear, so it will fight you a bit when you are turning. That means that it will want to understeer slightly. To fight that tendency, we add a little more camber up front than in the rear.

It's only a suggestion as it appears you have a grip on the issue and a sound plan of attack to resolve it. Don't mind my yammering, I am still learning this stuff and I know you have more knowledge and experience.
So as to not throw a monkey wrench into it, I will gracefiully bow out and listen and learn.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:22 PM   #634 (permalink)
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Anyone have creaking from the rear springs?
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:14 PM   #635 (permalink)
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Did you reuse the rubber from the OEM springs?
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:25 AM   #636 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vpn2001 View Post
Anyone have creaking from the rear springs?
Yep. For me, it's from the lower spring mount being a bit loose and moving, not from the spring itself. I'll be working on it when I install my rear camber/toe kit in the next week or so.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:18 PM   #637 (permalink)
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Now that I have read several posts I would like to thank all of you guinea pigs (I mean that politely = P) because I was going to buy the h&r springs n now I'm placing an order for the swift springs, so much props for your posts!! One other thought for all of you that have the swift springs, which camber and toe kit do you recommend?....
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:44 PM   #638 (permalink)
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I purchased the Ichiba one from ebay. FYI- from what I've seen the 370 takes the same rear kit as the 350. Strangely enough, people charge more for the "370" arms than the 350.

Whatever, I guess.

As far as the front, you should be fine. I was in spec for both camber and toe post-install. My rear camber was out too far by about a degree. The rear toe is in alignment but the bolts come with the kit, so I guess I'll go ahead and install those while I'm down there (just in case).
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:33 PM   #639 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wheee! View Post
Did you reuse the rubber from the OEM springs?
I don't think the rear springs have stock rubbers - its just for the McPherson struts in the front...
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:00 PM   #640 (permalink)
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yup they do... the rubber boots at the bottom of the spring.
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Old 05-27-2011, 07:47 AM   #641 (permalink)
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They're at the top also- just held on to the top bucket by metal shim things.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:22 PM   #642 (permalink)
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Where are my springs at? I'm so impatient
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:13 PM   #643 (permalink)
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I ordered the swift springs and 20/25mm spacers I'm excited to do my first mod!
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:00 PM   #644 (permalink)
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Hey I got an update from Swift and it seems their shipment has been delayed for some issues I was not told about, anyways so it seems it'll be another week or two
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:03 PM   #645 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZForce View Post
No not the front camber but the rear. Different camber on rears based on non adjustable control arms up front. It makes the rear the 0.3 difference from the front.

So if you have up front (drivers side) -1.4 then the drivers side rear should be 0.3 difference which places it at -1.1. Same would go for the passenger side, whatever the non adjustable front is then minus 0.3 and you get your setting for the rear camber. Therefore no matter what the fronts are reading on camber the rears would be 0.3 difference on both sides on the rear.


As far as the 0.3 degrees difference goes, thats about normal for a front engine rear drive street car. The reason you need more negative camber up front....that's because the car has a front biased weight distribution (as front engine cars usually do). That means that in corners, the front is going to have more inertia than the rear, so it will fight you a bit when you are turning. That means that it will want to understeer slightly. To fight that tendency, we add a little more camber up front than in the rear.

It's only a suggestion as it appears you have a grip on the issue and a sound plan of attack to resolve it. Don't mind my yammering, I am still learning this stuff and I know you have more knowledge and experience.
So as to not throw a monkey wrench into it, I will gracefiully bow out and listen and learn.
That's far too upright for the front, and especially the rears. I'm thinking about running 2.1-5 out back and 2.8+ up front. I'm probably running a more aggressive setup than most though.
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