BC ERs with Swift Springs and RA Valving REVIEW / (Picture Heavy)

Jeffblue · 09-29-2010, 03:25 PM

how much are the extenders? I forget, but you can adjust the front dampening settings through the engine bay right?

^this is without the extenders correct? sorry if this was mentioned already, but couldn't you cut a hole in the black panels and then make some sort of cap out of the piece you remove so its accessible?

oh yea and how much was the total install of the coilovers, camber arms, and allignment? Thanks. REP for the review

daleks · 09-29-2010, 03:43 PM

Why not trim the extenders down to a shorter length? AFAIK, it's just a rigid rubber tube. The extenders just wrap around the top adjustment knob.

Mozen · 09-29-2010, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffblue

how much are the extenders? I forget, but you can adjust the front dampening settings through the engine bay right?

^this is without the extenders correct? sorry if this was mentioned already, but couldn't you cut a hole in the black panels and then make some sort of cap out of the piece you remove so its accessible?

oh yea and how much was the total install of the coilovers, camber arms, and allignment? Thanks. REP for the review

Quote:

Originally Posted by daleks

Why not trim the extenders down to a shorter length? AFAIK, it's just a rigid rubber tube. The extenders just wrap around the top adjustment knob.

Actually the cap is what im thinking now, that is without extenders yes. You could also do what Daleks is suggesting and cut the extender its self down so it goes through the hole you drill and then sits right outside the interior piece so you dont have to worry about tying it down. Either would look sharp i think.

Total install for coils and the camber arms was only 4 hours i believe and that included some adjustment and the swap back to shorter springs. Non Stop Tuning in Houston charges $75 an hour so $300 or so...The alignment was done later and it was $50 bucks. It was kind of hard for me to estimate time tho because they put all the mods i listed on the front page in at once so i just paid one large bill.

@ Daleks --- its not a rigid rubber tube, it is spun metal inside, that said, i like the idea. Im waiting to see how much of my interior is going to have to come out when i get the cage done tho before i worry about it.

Jeffblue · 09-29-2010, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozen

Actually the cap is what im thinking now, that is without extenders yes. You could also do what Daleks is suggesting and cut the extender its self down so it goes through the hole you drill and then sits right outside the interior piece so you dont have to worry about tying it down. Either would look sharp i think.

Total install for coils and the camber arms was only 4 hours i believe and that included some adjustment and the swap back to shorter springs. Non Stop Tuning in Houston charges $75 an hour so $300 or so...The alignment was done later and it was $50 bucks. It was kind of hard for me to estimate time tho because they put all the mods i listed on the front page in at once so i just paid one large bill.

@ Daleks --- its not a rigid rubber tube, it is spun metal inside, that said, i like the idea. Im waiting to see how much of my interior is going to have to come out when i get the cage done tho before i worry about it.

300 plus allignment is exactly what i heard. Thanks for the info. I'm gonna try and think of a cap design or something with a hinge, maybe even a DIY once i get mine done.

sig11 · 09-29-2010, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozen

Side note, we sourced the taping / clunking noise. It is something to do with the drive train since as i turn from left to right you can hear the noise move from side to side as weight transfers, and if i drop it in gear and do the same turn the noise is a lot less, and then only at low speeds.

Could it be the sway bars popping? May want to try greasing them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozen

Im out of time to try and figure it out, i head back to Iraq 2morrow

Keep your head down and come back safe.

Mozen · 09-29-2010, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sig11

Could it be the sway bars popping? May want to try greasing them.

Keep your head down and come back safe.

Thanks, will do.

Im almost positive that the front is the sway bar but its already greased. The rear is drive train related. Only heard at speeds under 40, the noise moves from left to right or right to left as i turn or goes away as i hit the gas. Secret Service Auto and Non Stop Tuning both took a look at it and everything is on the car right, its just something with the drive train.

Juruki · 10-01-2010, 11:23 AM

so which way do u think its easier to adjust the rear stiffness? Taking out the wheel and dropping the suspension or taking out the interior pieces?

Mozen · 10-01-2010, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juruki

so which way do u think its easier to adjust the rear stiffness? Taking out the wheel and dropping the suspension or taking out the interior pieces?

Interior pieces!!!! by a long shot!

Its easy, take a look in the back, you will see 4 plastic tabs with little D rings on them , pull those out, then pull out the 2 mats and the plastic shield below them. Then you gently pull on the center back piece and you will find a number of tabs you can slip a flat head screwdriver down to pop off the car with. Once you have that out, you will have to disconnect the light, and then gently pull on the 2 side pieces and find their tabs, pop them free with the screw driver, and your good. It takes me about 2 min or so do do it carefully after i figured out where the tabs were the first time.

Just take your time with it and you will be fine, If for some reason one of the plastic tabs breaks you should be able to pull it off the pannel and get a replacement tab from your local dealer.

Hope this helps!!

Juruki · 10-01-2010, 07:10 PM

^^ helped a lot! Thx man...
I set mine at 20 front and 20 rear but i think the rear needs to be softer

Jeffblue · 11-18-2010, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozen

Actually the cap is what im thinking now, that is without extenders yes. You could also do what Daleks is suggesting and cut the extender its self down so it goes through the hole you drill and then sits right outside the interior piece so you dont have to worry about tying it down. Either would look sharp i think.

Total install for coils and the camber arms was only 4 hours i believe and that included some adjustment and the swap back to shorter springs. Non Stop Tuning in Houston charges $75 an hour so $300 or so...The alignment was done later and it was $50 bucks. It was kind of hard for me to estimate time tho because they put all the mods i listed on the front page in at once so i just paid one large bill.

@ Daleks --- its not a rigid rubber tube, it is spun metal inside, that said, i like the idea. Im waiting to see how much of my interior is going to have to come out when i get the cage done tho before i worry about it.

have you tried cutting the extenders? is this something feasible or would it ruin them?

RedBullRR · 05-22-2011, 10:20 AM

You can cut the extenders I've done it. However I really want to find a plastic plug and make the hole big enough to fit my fingers in. Want it to look more OEM. Since I already drilled a hole in 1 side I'm fkd. But if i could do it all over again. I'd leave it alone and remove panels when need be.

RedBullRR · 05-23-2011, 12:11 PM

This is how I did mine this weekend. 3/4 hole will fit the extender perfectly and cut the cable to about half an inch and there you have it. I still want to find plugs about 1.5" in diameter and make a hole big enough for me to adjust it that way and hide it when not being used with the plugs.

Ztoon · 05-23-2011, 01:15 PM

Nice job! Looks really clean!
I didn't know the extenders could be trimmed like that. Might do the same with mine.
Hiding them with plugs is a good option as well. Wouldn't want somebody absentmindedly twirling the knobs.

M.Bonanni · 05-23-2011, 02:30 PM

Super clean! Nice work. I tried to do something similar but it didn't work out nearly as well for me so I just cut holes big enough to stick my fingers in and adjust haha.

RedBullRR · 05-24-2011, 10:19 AM

What does everyone have there dampening set at? I keep playing around with the settings. Is there any problems with constantly changing the settings?

09-29-2010, 03:25 PM	#16 (permalink)
Jeffblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: NY Age: 36 Posts: 9,192 Drives: Z32TT & 335xi Coupe Rep Power: 37	how much are the extenders? I forget, but you can adjust the front dampening settings through the engine bay right? ^this is without the extenders correct? sorry if this was mentioned already, but couldn't you cut a hole in the black panels and then make some sort of cap out of the piece you remove so its accessible? oh yea and how much was the total install of the coilovers, camber arms, and allignment? Thanks. REP for the review Last edited by Jeffblue; 09-29-2010 at 03:46 PM.

05-22-2011, 10:20 AM	#26 (permalink)
RedBullRR Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 336 Drives: 2010 370Z Red Rep Power: 15	You can cut the extenders I've done it. However I really want to find a plastic plug and make the hole big enough to fit my fingers in. Want it to look more OEM. Since I already drilled a hole in 1 side I'm fkd. But if i could do it all over again. I'd leave it alone and remove panels when need be. __________________ 2010 Solid Red Z: Mods: Stillen G3 Intakes \| BC Coilovers \| H&R 20/25 Spacers \| Stillen Splitter \| Stillen LW Pullie TBI \| Red GTR Start \| LED Interior \| Kenwood Double Din

05-23-2011, 12:11 PM	#27 (permalink)
RedBullRR Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 336 Drives: 2010 370Z Red Rep Power: 15	This is how I did mine this weekend. 3/4 hole will fit the extender perfectly and cut the cable to about half an inch and there you have it. I still want to find plugs about 1.5" in diameter and make a hole big enough for me to adjust it that way and hide it when not being used with the plugs. __________________ 2010 Solid Red Z: Mods: Stillen G3 Intakes \| BC Coilovers \| H&R 20/25 Spacers \| Stillen Splitter \| Stillen LW Pullie TBI \| Red GTR Start \| LED Interior \| Kenwood Double Din

05-23-2011, 01:15 PM	#28 (permalink)
Ztoon Track Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: B.C. Posts: 578 Drives: '09 370a7 Rep Power: 25	Nice job! Looks really clean! I didn't know the extenders could be trimmed like that. Might do the same with mine. Hiding them with plugs is a good option as well. Wouldn't want somebody absentmindedly twirling the knobs. __________________ Stillen G3\|CBE\|ground kit, F.I. H.F.C., C.F. fangs\|mirrors\|pillars, Hotchkis, SSR Type-F, RE-11, UpRev, BC BR coilovers 15% tint, LED black hdlts, color match handles, Dynamat, tail lt. tint, Mines C.F. frt. lip\|rear spoiler, Amuse rear,skirts, vented fenders, c.f. vented hood, gloss blk. roof

05-23-2011, 02:30 PM	#29 (permalink)
M.Bonanni The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 2,575 Drives: Fast Rep Power: 1321	Super clean! Nice work. I tried to do something similar but it didn't work out nearly as well for me so I just cut holes big enough to stick my fingers in and adjust haha. __________________ MikeBonanni.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/MikeBonanni Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/MBonanni36 Function > Form

09-29-2010, 03:43 PM	#17 (permalink)
daleks Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: St. Louis Posts: 424 Drives: 2011 Evo X MR Rep Power: 15	Why not trim the extenders down to a shorter length? AFAIK, it's just a rigid rubber tube. The extenders just wrap around the top adjustment knob.

10-01-2010, 11:23 AM	#22 (permalink)
Juruki Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 965 Drives: 370Z Tour/Sport/Navi Rep Power: 16	so which way do u think its easier to adjust the rear stiffness? Taking out the wheel and dropping the suspension or taking out the interior pieces?

10-01-2010, 07:10 PM	#24 (permalink)
Juruki Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 965 Drives: 370Z Tour/Sport/Navi Rep Power: 16	^^ helped a lot! Thx man... I set mine at 20 front and 20 rear but i think the rear needs to be softer

05-24-2011, 10:19 AM	#30 (permalink)
RedBullRR Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 336 Drives: 2010 370Z Red Rep Power: 15	What does everyone have there dampening set at? I keep playing around with the settings. Is there any problems with constantly changing the settings? __________________ 2010 Solid Red Z: Mods: Stillen G3 Intakes \| BC Coilovers \| H&R 20/25 Spacers \| Stillen Splitter \| Stillen LW Pullie TBI \| Red GTR Start \| LED Interior \| Kenwood Double Din

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