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DD, the ride height adjustment on ER series is completely independent of other adjustments correct?

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Old 04-30-2009, 10:59 AM   #61 (permalink)
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DD, the ride height adjustment on ER series is completely independent of other adjustments correct?
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:23 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Not sure of the minimum drop, I would guess that they can be raised to around stock height. There is quite a bit of upwards adjustment left on my set.
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Old 05-30-2009, 03:53 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LiquidZ View Post
DD, the ride height adjustment on ER series is completely independent of other adjustments correct?
The front is, yes... But the rears are not... the rear is a multi-link setup, so therefore all aftermarket 'coilovers' will have separate springs and dampers in the rear for this car... rears aren't really 'coilovers' for that reason... you cannot change the height of the rear spring, so it's a little tougher to dial in ride height in the rear
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:02 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by travisjb View Post
The front is, yes... But the rears are not... the rear is a multi-link setup, so therefore all aftermarket 'coilovers' will have separate springs and dampers in the rear for this car... rears aren't really 'coilovers' for that reason... you cannot change the height of the rear spring, so it's a little tougher to dial in ride height in the rear
The rear ride height is actually fully adjustable but it is adjusted differently than the front. The front ride height is set by turning the shock body after the spring pre-load is set, it is not adjusted by the spring. This allows the height to be adjusted at any level without taking away shock travel. The front is a true coilover.

The rear ride height is adjusted at the spring, the adjuster sits above the spring. Once ride height has been set, you also need to adjust the travel of the shock by turning the body to match your height adjustment of the spring. Like the front, with this design you can set height at any level without taking away shock travel.

Once static ride height is set, you will need to add ballast and perform full corner balance and alignment.
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:24 PM   #65 (permalink)
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thanks for clarifying, I shouldn't have said they weren't adjustable... that was wrong... just not adjustable like a typical coilover
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:37 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Mike, just wondering a few things here. I didn't want to start a new thread for something that I knew you could answer. I am in between the classic battle of coilovers Vs. lowering springs. I have only used lowering springs in the past but I want to go a different route with the Z. I actually want to race her. But I need to be able to keep her as my daily driver as well. What do you suggest? Also if I go with coilovers, I want to get the BR series. Will I "need" a camber kit (F+R) or will I be fine with just that set-up?

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Old 06-07-2009, 09:20 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rreign View Post
Mike, just wondering a few things here. I didn't want to start a new thread for something that I knew you could answer. I am in between the classic battle of coilovers Vs. lowering springs. I have only used lowering springs in the past but I want to go a different route with the Z. I actually want to race her. But I need to be able to keep her as my daily driver as well. What do you suggest? Also if I go with coilovers, I want to get the BR series. Will I "need" a camber kit (F+R) or will I be fine with just that set-up?
Coilovers are far better than lowering springs if your purpose is a trackable car. With coilovers you get dampers matched to the (typically stiffer) spring rate, and adjustability. The spring rate on the BR series should very street friendly, just turn down the shock setting at the end of the track day. Progressive spring is a little friendlier for the street but fixed rate is going to do a little better on track in most cases.

Whether you will need a camber kit is going to depend on how much you lower the car, even slammed the car doesn't seem to gain an absurd amount of camber due to the suspension design, but the more the better at the track. Look at Mike's car, he is lowered and still short on camber at the track (no front camber adjustment), just make sure you get an alignment after lowering to correct the toe-in as that will kill tires in no time.
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Old 06-07-2009, 09:42 PM   #68 (permalink)
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^^^Agreed.

Camber kits will be a great benefit though on track to get enough negative camber to use your tires to their full potential.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:48 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Thaks again for the info guys. I already contacted DannyGT on getting a DIY. I do have some general knowledge when it comes to suspension work and I've done lowering springs myself, in the past. Hopefully I can get that from him and it'll be smooth sailing. Any other tips/hints/tricks would be helpful too.
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:33 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rreign View Post
Thaks again for the info guys. I already contacted DannyGT on getting a DIY. I do have some general knowledge when it comes to suspension work and I've done lowering springs myself, in the past. Hopefully I can get that from him and it'll be smooth sailing. Any other tips/hints/tricks would be helpful too.
They come with step by step instructions.
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:48 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Even better!! That makes things easy enough.
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:09 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Mike, do the rear BC coilovers adjust without having to remove the wheels, via an extender?
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:10 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguez View Post
Mike, do the rear BC coilovers adjust without having to remove the wheels, via an extender?
Yes they come with an extender for the top adjustment.
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:13 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Great, thanks.
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