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Brake Pad Reviews

Originally Posted by AP - Chris_B Not sure what you are asking here. If you already have a set of full floating rotors, I would need to see details to

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Old 12-07-2010, 12:35 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AP - Chris_B View Post
Not sure what you are asking here. If you already have a set of full floating rotors, I would need to see details to understand if they were capable of being modified to accept one of the anti-rattle solutions. There is no generic fix as the parts must all work together properly.
I have a complete set of Relentless Autosports two piece floating rotors. They have been shown on several threads. Do you think there is an anti-rattle solution available for them?
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:52 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Chris, I couldn't find a set of two piece bolted discs for the 370Z on the Stillen website, unless you have specific parts numbers for front and rear that's not on the website?
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Old 12-08-2010, 12:26 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Chris, I couldn't find a set of two piece bolted discs for the 370Z on the Stillen website, unless you have specific parts numbers for front and rear that's not on the website?
Still in the works, so nothing is on the site yet. I'm use the marketing crew will make some noise when these are nearly ready to go.
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Old 12-08-2010, 12:29 PM   #79 (permalink)
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I have a complete set of Relentless Autosports two piece floating rotors. They have been shown on several threads. Do you think there is an anti-rattle solution available for them?
You'll have to speak with Scott @ Relentless on those. I don't have a set here to check if they are suitable for that type of modification. I'm not sure, by what he has posted, that these were ever intended to have such a feature. It would appear these were mostly for track duty, in which case rattle is not usually a concern.
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Old 12-08-2010, 01:46 PM   #80 (permalink)
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RA also has two piece non floating setups available.

Chris B - What type of weight savings would AP's kit offer? Would slotted/drilled be options? Would the kit utlize the stock Akebono's?

I realize you may not be able to share these details, but I wanted to get the questions out.
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:24 PM   #81 (permalink)
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I certainly would be interested in a 2-piece bolted rotor replacement for front and back. Don't think I could live with the clanging of a floating system. Are the weight savings of a 2-piece bolted rotor close to a 2-piece floating one?
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:40 PM   #82 (permalink)
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I certainly would be interested in a 2-piece bolted rotor replacement for front and back. Don't think I could live with the clanging of a floating system. Are the weight savings of a 2-piece bolted rotor close to a 2-piece floating one?

Scott at RA mentioned to me that can do their Rotors with a fixed 2 piece design.

Scott - will you confirm?
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:20 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Chris B - What type of weight savings would AP's kit offer? Would slotted/drilled be options? Would the kit utlize the stock Akebono's?

I realize you may not be able to share these details, but I wanted to get the questions out.
This is being looked at. We don't consider the Akebono calipers up to the task of serious track duty, so full-floating rotors are not a good match to the OE units in our opinion. For a true track system, a caliper upgrade is required. Look for an even larger capacity system from AP Racing in the first quarter of 2011. I would expect that the J-hook option would be offered alongside slotted only. For other than full track use, cross-drilled/slotted also works great (if done properly!). Of course, there will be a large range of pad options for these calipers, including the Mintex F3R -- arguably the best all-out track pad available today.
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:32 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Reviving a dead thread here. but i just read thru 6 pages of this only to get nowhere on pad choice decisions. from what i see, Hawk HPS is garbage for the track but the HP+ will kill rotors. looks the same for all manufacturers, if they suck at the track, the are good on the street and vice versa. there has got to be something i can take to an occasional autocross and not destroy my rotors OR get insane fade. someone clear this muddy mess up for me please
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:31 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Reviving a dead thread here. but i just read thru 6 pages of this only to get nowhere on pad choice decisions. from what i see, Hawk HPS is garbage for the track but the HP+ will kill rotors. looks the same for all manufacturers, if they suck at the track, the are good on the street and vice versa. there has got to be something i can take to an occasional autocross and not destroy my rotors OR get insane fade. someone clear this muddy mess up for me please
You can use the Carbotech Bobcats for auto-x just fine (just don't track on them). All the other pads I like for auto-x are track pads. Mainly it depends on how long and brake heavy your courses are.

For track duty there is no good compromise, go full race compound and then swap back to street pads (preferably use something that is compound compatible).
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:15 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Reviving a dead thread here. but i just read thru 6 pages of this only to get nowhere on pad choice decisions. from what i see, Hawk HPS is garbage for the track but the HP+ will kill rotors. looks the same for all manufacturers, if they suck at the track, the are good on the street and vice versa. there has got to be something i can take to an occasional autocross and not destroy my rotors OR get insane fade. someone clear this muddy mess up for me please
We (wife and I) run carbotech xp8's all around all the time, they're a bit grabby and squeaky on the street but not too bad imo, you adapt your braking style to the harder grabbing pad for street use, etc...
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:56 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I've just gone back to stock pads for autox and street driving and switch out to Carbotech XP10/8 for the track days. The stock pads are fine for autox...you just have to push the pedal harder. They can lock the wheels just like any other pad, and it's hard to fade even the stock pads in a sub-1 min autox run.
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:37 PM   #88 (permalink)
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I've just gone back to stock pads for autox and street driving and switch out to Carbotech XP10/8 for the track days. The stock pads are fine for autox...you just have to push the pedal harder. They can lock the wheels just like any other pad, and it's hard to fade even the stock pads in a sub-1 min autox run.
Longer courses on hot days with more than 3 sequential runs will fade them however. But yes, at SCCA style events you are fine.
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:38 PM   #89 (permalink)
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We (wife and I) run carbotech xp8's all around all the time, they're a bit grabby and squeaky on the street but not too bad imo, you adapt your braking style to the harder grabbing pad for street use, etc...
This is what I'm thinking of doing. Just running XP8's at all four corners for DD and track. Which I really don't do much DD. It's mostly a weekend warrior type of car. Hell I havn't drove it in two as of now.
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:57 PM   #90 (permalink)
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I too read through this whole thread, and wasn't able to come to a conclusion. Part of that is because I am planning on running the Racing Brake 2-piece front rotors and powerslot rear rotors (maybe eventually get the RB rears as well). I was looking at XP8's all around for street/track however on the RB website it specifically mentions that Carbotechs may not be the right pads for their rotors, and they endorse Hawk and supposedly have worked with Hawk to make the rotors compatible with their pads. From what I have read in this thread, the HP-Plus pads may not be a bad choice as one would assume the RB rotors have been designed to take the 'abuse' the HP Plus generally does to rotors?
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