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Torque settings brake lines

Installing SS brake lines- Goodridge pkg "generic" says torque 12-16 ft lb. Read some posts about not stripping factory fitting- anybody know Nissan torque spec?

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Old 05-03-2010, 08:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Torque settings brake lines

Installing SS brake lines- Goodridge pkg "generic" says torque 12-16 ft lb. Read some posts about not stripping factory fitting- anybody know Nissan torque spec?
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Just make it tight enough...nothing should back off that line...
Worse thing you want to due is overtighten so that you cant get em off at a later date and end up stripping them, ....or bending or fracturing the oem hard line..

12-15lbs isnt much...go by feel.....
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Installing SS brake lines- Goodridge pkg "generic" says torque 12-16 ft lb. Read some posts about not stripping factory fitting- anybody know Nissan torque spec?
The service manual calls for 12 lb/ft for all brake fittings.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thnaks-
The existing factory lines were tough to get off- my Z is a year old and do not use in winter but probably still get a little salt so had some corosion- used a ton of WD40 and a lot of patience eventually got fittings un-done without damage
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Using a brake line wrench helps (also called a C-wrench). It connects more surfaces and is less likely to slip. I bought a combo 10/12mm at the parts store for short money.
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Old 05-04-2010, 12:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Always use a flare nut wrench on these. Also, you'll know how much to tighten them. They will simply stop turning at a certain point and just don't crank on it after that.

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Old 05-04-2010, 01:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Zxces50 View Post
Thnaks-
The existing factory lines were tough to get off-
Some Gorilla assembled those, like most every other fitting/bolt/nut on the car.

Torque specs? We don't need no stinkin torque specs (at least at the factory it seems)...
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Old 05-04-2010, 01:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Always use a flare nut wrench on these.
I'll vouch for that!.....
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Old 05-04-2010, 02:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zxces50 View Post
Thnaks-
The existing factory lines were tough to get off- my Z is a year old and do not use in winter but probably still get a little salt so had some corosion- used a ton of WD40 and a lot of patience eventually got fittings un-done without damage
Factories typically over-torque the OE line fittings. GM is the worst offender, but others do it as well. They find it reduces leaks on the showroom floor, even though they readily acknowledge the are damaging threads and flares in the fittings. It's just something we get to live with. Corrosion just makes it worse.

Chris
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Old 05-04-2010, 03:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Just be sure to clean and loosen with PB Blast or Silicone spray or WD40...
sludge doesnt help.

Flare wrenches are great, but if they are torqued/stuck on there good, it can strip as well....Best technique is not to slowly loosen, but a quick "snap" or turn to break it loose..IMO tho....
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AP - Chris_B View Post
Factories typically over-torque the OE line fittings. GM is the worst offender, but others do it as well. They find it reduces leaks on the showroom floor, even though they readily acknowledge the are damaging threads and flares in the fittings. It's just something we get to live with. Corrosion just makes it worse.

Chris
When we did the stainless lines on Zpirates car we ran into this issue, with a damaged short rear caliper hardline upon dis assembly. It was an $8 part, but had to be ordered, leaving John's car stuck on my lift for almost a week...
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