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-   -   Torque settings brake lines (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/18594-torque-settings-brake-lines.html)

Zxces50 05-03-2010 07:16 PM

Torque settings brake lines
 
Installing SS brake lines- Goodridge pkg "generic" says torque 12-16 ft lb. Read some posts about not stripping factory fitting- anybody know Nissan torque spec?

abakja1 05-03-2010 07:31 PM

Just make it tight enough...nothing should back off that line...
Worse thing you want to due is overtighten so that you cant get em off at a later date and end up stripping them, ....or bending or fracturing the oem hard line..

12-15lbs isnt much...go by feel.....

ChrisSlicks 05-03-2010 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zxces50 (Post 523465)
Installing SS brake lines- Goodridge pkg "generic" says torque 12-16 ft lb. Read some posts about not stripping factory fitting- anybody know Nissan torque spec?

The service manual calls for 12 lb/ft for all brake fittings.

Zxces50 05-03-2010 08:17 PM

Thnaks-
The existing factory lines were tough to get off- my Z is a year old and do not use in winter but probably still get a little salt so had some corosion- used a ton of WD40 and a lot of patience eventually got fittings un-done without damage

ChrisSlicks 05-03-2010 08:30 PM

Using a brake line wrench helps (also called a C-wrench). It connects more surfaces and is less likely to slip. I bought a combo 10/12mm at the parts store for short money.

CBRich 05-04-2010 11:42 AM

Always use a flare nut wrench on these. Also, you'll know how much to tighten them. They will simply stop turning at a certain point and just don't crank on it after that.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.gif

Modshack 05-04-2010 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zxces50 (Post 523559)
Thnaks-
The existing factory lines were tough to get off-

Some Gorilla assembled those, like most every other fitting/bolt/nut on the car.

Torque specs? We don't need no stinkin torque specs (at least at the factory it seems)...

Modshack 05-04-2010 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBRich (Post 524392)
Always use a flare nut wrench on these.

I'll vouch for that!.....:tup:

AP - Chris_B 05-04-2010 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zxces50 (Post 523559)
Thnaks-
The existing factory lines were tough to get off- my Z is a year old and do not use in winter but probably still get a little salt so had some corosion- used a ton of WD40 and a lot of patience eventually got fittings un-done without damage

Factories typically over-torque the OE line fittings. GM is the worst offender, but others do it as well. They find it reduces leaks on the showroom floor, even though they readily acknowledge the are damaging threads and flares in the fittings. It's just something we get to live with. Corrosion just makes it worse.

Chris

abakja1 05-04-2010 02:03 PM

Just be sure to clean and loosen with PB Blast or Silicone spray or WD40...
sludge doesnt help.

Flare wrenches are great, but if they are torqued/stuck on there good, it can strip as well....Best technique is not to slowly loosen, but a quick "snap" or turn to break it loose..IMO tho....

Modshack 05-05-2010 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AP - Chris_B (Post 524500)
Factories typically over-torque the OE line fittings. GM is the worst offender, but others do it as well. They find it reduces leaks on the showroom floor, even though they readily acknowledge the are damaging threads and flares in the fittings. It's just something we get to live with. Corrosion just makes it worse.

Chris

When we did the stainless lines on Zpirates car we ran into this issue, with a damaged short rear caliper hardline upon dis assembly. It was an $8 part, but had to be ordered, leaving John's car stuck on my lift for almost a week...:ugh2:


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