brake fluid recommendations

synolimit

Bingo, $10 for me cause they know me.

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13 370z-

MaDMaXX

I would have classed motul600 into a more expensive category than most brake fluids (not including race stuff) Can i assume that below there, they're all the same?

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'04.5 350Z - Very Motordyne.

JARblue

I'm as adverse to throwing my money away as the next guy, but IMO the price differences being discussed here are negligible considering how much brake fluid is used and how often. Less than $100 over the course of a year between the cheapest and most expensive fluid? Yeah, IDGAF. That's like using regular instead of premium gas because of the cost savings.

Like Rusty mentioned, Motul isn't expensive, and I can find it locally at the motorcycle dealer anytime I need it. I used Superblue for the convenience of the color when flushing brake fluid, but it has been outlawed because the color blue is toxic according to DoT I don't bother with the racing stuff because it's just unnecessary for me. If I tracked or auto-x at all I would be using it because the cost difference isn't significant enough to care.

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MaDMaXX

So what are you using now then?

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'04.5 350Z - Very Motordyne.

JARblue

Ate Superblue is actually in my brake system currently. But I have several bottles of Motul RBF600 around since I did some clutch work. I expect it is what I will use as long as its a DD.

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MaDMaXX

Running ATE blue in mine currently, but something isn't right, there is the slightest hint of needing to pump the pedal just before every use.
It's hardly noticeable if i don't do that, but if i do tap it first, i'll get a marginally higher pedal on the second push.

What's the standard size Motul 600? 500ml?

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'04.5 350Z - Very Motordyne.

Rusty

For a complete flush. You will need 2 bottles.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
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JARblue

Yes, standard size is 500 mL.

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MaDMaXX

Bottle isn't a size, so i'm guessing you mean i litre of fluid for a flush?

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'04.5 350Z - Very Motordyne.

Sylvia Rocks

Remember MadMaxx what your are experiencing is fairly normal. After a little brake use, you are experiencing what is called pad kickback. As you start to corner there is a little slop in the hub bearings and the rotor flexes just slightly in the hub and pushes back the pads a little. With more use this push back becomes slightly more pronounced and thus the pedal travel seems to get a little longer. Most racers have a technique which before reaching their braking point, they tap the pedal to get rid of this excess pad spacing so that when they do apply the brakes as needed, they will have a hard pedal starting and not have to pump them during the braking to get the pedal and brake pressure up hard. It also tells them if their brakes are ready to work before they really need them. Some of the newer computer controlled brake systems today now can prime the brake system if it anticipates a possible collision situation to make the brakes react even faster when applied. Unless your pads are really worn or you've got air in the system, I wouldn't worry about it.

Read T

FYI PFC665 is the same actual fluid as Castrol SRF but a bit cheaper (per a friend at PFC)

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
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Chris_B

I have heard that as well. Yet, is it not true. Castrol (a marketing company) does not private label for companies other than car manufacturers, but they would not PL their SRF for anyone. Reading the specs for both will add some clarity. The PFC fluid is made by a chemical company in the UK, just like the majority of the performance and racing brands on the market. Regardless, in the 35+ years since SRF was introduced, other options have been introduced that perform better and are more cost-effective.

cossie1600

What? WHat fluid are you buying that has a 500+ F WET boiling point. Forget about dry boiling point, all brake fluid will absorb moisture at some point

Chris_B

For daily drivers that don't get the brake fluid flushed often (2 year should be max), then yes. But for enthusiasts who track their cars occasionally, the primary importance is dry boiling point over wet. It takes about 2 years on average for brake fluid to go from "dry" to "wet" (3.7% absorbed moisture), so if we are flushing as often as we should, the wet boiling point hardly matters. This assumes fluid was poured from a freshly opened container and brake bleeding assistance did NOT include a pressure bleeder without a diaphragm.

For information 99.9% of what people will ever need to know about brake fluid, check here: Torque Brake Fluid ABC's

You'll see there that while boiling points are of a primary importance, other factors are also key in choosing the best fluid. My apologies in advance to any chemical engineers reading this as that page is a layman's synopsis, yet a very good one.

Chris

cossie1600

Unfortunately many bottles are not stored in ideally location or in proper setup. If you crack a bottle and don't use it up, good luck keeping it fresh.