brake fluid recommendations

Dragon_Ball_Z · 12-01-2015, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

they just changed the bottle. The white bottle with blue label is still synthetic
Its 480/311 which is fine for the street

I'm all for quality stuff, but anything more is overkill on the street, assuming like AP Chris said, you are going to change your fluid every two years.

Hey Mike, is this what you are talking about for Valvoline Synthetic? Valvoline/32 oz. DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid 601458 - Read 1 Reviews on Valvoline #601458

cossie1600 · 09-21-2010, 05:03 PM

you should always compare the wet boiling point, not the dry since you should assume there is some type of moisture in the system or bottle already

AP - Chris_B · 09-22-2010, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie1600

you should always compare the wet boiling point, not the dry since you should assume there is some type of moisture in the system or bottle already

If you plan on keeping brake fluid in the vehicle for over two years, then, yes, wet boiling points should be compared. Brake fluid, if made and stored correctly before use, absorbs about 1.5-2.0% moisture per year while in the vehicle. Most of this moisture comes through the OE rubber brake lines -- another argument for upgrading to stainless steel braided Teflon hose. It is also an argument against pressurized brake bleeders that don't have diaphragms.

Since the SAE WERBP (Wet Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point) test measures wet boiling points at 3.5-4.5% typical moisture content (the reference fluid is at 3.70% +/-.05%), we should only be concerned with the wet boiling point if we stay with OE rubber lines, use cheap pressure bleeders and aren't that concerned with regular maintenance. If, as enthusiasts, we choose to keep up on maintenance and use better lines and bleeding methods, the dry boiling point is much more relevant to our use.

Chris

cossie1600 · 09-22-2010, 02:53 PM

you should anyway

NewYorkJon34 · 09-22-2010, 02:57 PM

I just switched to a set of goodridge SS brake lines, & 4 bottles of Motul 600. The car is running great now.

Joehand1 · 10-24-2010, 12:53 PM

So am I understanding that even though Nissan recommends DOT 3 that we should uses DOT 4 if we track?

AP - Chris_B · 10-25-2010, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joehand1

So am I understanding that even though Nissan recommends DOT 3 that we should uses DOT 4 if we track?

DOT4 and DOT3 are immiscible, so there is no problem using DOT4 on the track or on the street. It is a higher spec than DOT3 as it pertains to boiling points. Most racing fluid "conforms" to DOT4, although the best fluids are quite a bit better than the minimum specs call for.

Chris

cossie1600 · 10-24-2010, 04:30 PM

yes

spearfish25 · 10-25-2010, 11:36 AM

If you guys are careful, you can bleed your brake system using a single quart of new fluid. Using the RBF600 and ATE SuperBlue alternating schedule, it's easy to know when you've adequately bled each caliper.

christian370z · 10-25-2010, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

If you guys are careful, you can bleed your brake system using a single quart of new fluid. Using the RBF600 and ATE SuperBlue alternating schedule, it's easy to know when you've adequately bled each caliper.

How often should you bleed the brakes if you run RBF600 on a mostly street driven Z?

ChrisSlicks · 10-25-2010, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christian370z

How often should you bleed the brakes if you run RBF600 on a mostly street driven Z?

Define mostly?

I bleed the brakes every 2 years on my street cars.

christian370z · 10-26-2010, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Define mostly?

I bleed the brakes every 2 years on my street cars.

99% of the time just street driving, I would like to think someday I can go to a track for the first time haha. Thanks for the information, I am upgrading the fluid and pads for my base brakes since the stock pads and fluid cannot cope with any serious sustained braking, that's for sure.

ChrisSlicks · 10-26-2010, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christian370z

99% of the time just street driving, I would like to think someday I can go to a track for the first time haha. Thanks for the information, I am upgrading the fluid and pads for my base brakes since the stock pads and fluid cannot cope with any serious sustained braking, that's for sure.

If you are just driving on the street RBF600 is a waste of money. Given that it is recommended that you bleed the brakes directly before a track event, go with something a little more economical (but meets the DOT4 spec) until you hit the track.

CFZ · 10-27-2010, 02:17 PM

For the Motul, I replaced mine on my other cars about every 6months. You should prob do it in smaller increments seeing as though it's a huge difference on the track everytime I flush the system.

Now I use Neo sythetic brake fluid, which lasts prob half as long, but I still replace every 6months. LOL.

SeattleLion · 10-27-2010, 05:50 PM

I use AP Racing DOT 5.1. It is compatible with ABS, etc. Stillen sells it for about $14 a pint. Three pints are enough for flush and fill. The dry and wet boiling points are way higher than the stock DOT 3. I also changed the brake lines to Goodridge SS. That way the brake fluid will stay drier.

10-24-2010, 12:53 PM	#6 (permalink)
Joehand1 Base Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Mississippi Posts: 7 Drives: 09 370 Z Rep Power: 235	So am I understanding that even though Nissan recommends DOT 3 that we should uses DOT 4 if we track? __________________ 2009 370 Z 2006 Ford GT 1987 Porsche 911 Carrera

10-25-2010, 11:36 AM	#9 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1857	If you guys are careful, you can bleed your brake system using a single quart of new fluid. Using the RBF600 and ATE SuperBlue alternating schedule, it's easy to know when you've adequately bled each caliper. physics likes this. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

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09-21-2010, 05:03 PM	#2 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	you should always compare the wet boiling point, not the dry since you should assume there is some type of moisture in the system or bottle already

09-22-2010, 02:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	you should anyway

09-22-2010, 02:57 PM	#5 (permalink)
NewYorkJon34 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Naples, Florida Posts: 3,041 Drives: 09 Fairlady Z Rep Power: 1065	I just switched to a set of goodridge SS brake lines, & 4 bottles of Motul 600. The car is running great now.

10-24-2010, 04:30 PM	#8 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	yes

10-27-2010, 02:17 PM	#14 (permalink)
CFZ Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: F-Town Posts: 134 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 234	For the Motul, I replaced mine on my other cars about every 6months. You should prob do it in smaller increments seeing as though it's a huge difference on the track everytime I flush the system. Now I use Neo sythetic brake fluid, which lasts prob half as long, but I still replace every 6months. LOL.

10-27-2010, 05:50 PM	#15 (permalink)
SeattleLion Base Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Seattle WA Posts: 226 Drives: '13 Mustang GT Prem. Rep Power: 234	I use AP Racing DOT 5.1. It is compatible with ABS, etc. Stillen sells it for about $14 a pint. Three pints are enough for flush and fill. The dry and wet boiling points are way higher than the stock DOT 3. I also changed the brake lines to Goodridge SS. That way the brake fluid will stay drier.