brake fluid recommendations

Tedmeister

For now I'll stick with the Motul 660 for the brakes and clutch. I look forward to your review of the RF 650. Just got the FI oil cooler, so I'll be changing all the fluids before the next track day. I don't drive a lot of miles, so if I have to do the fluid changes every 6 months it is not a big deal.

KE_1508

Will do. So far, the combination of the Z1 BMCB and the Endless fluid have been good. I'll have to again follow up in the next few months.

Tedmeister

There were some comments advising against using the basic pressure bleeder.
Can these few minutes that the fluid is under pressure really absorb enough moisture to make a difference?

Chris_B

You will hear many different opinions on this, especially from those selling pressure bleeders. The fact is that brake fluid is highly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture eagerly. It is the #1 problem with brake fluid in general.

Pressure bleeders take atmospheric air (which has varying moisture content based on the current humidity) and forces it into the brake fluid. I take great measures to try to avoid anything even close to that. If you have completely dry air or nitrogen available, then I withdraw my objection. Most people don't.

The best way (still) is to bleed brakes it manually, which takes 3 people to do correctly. It's ALWAYS best to bleed front and rear systems at the same time, so the master cylinder piston can travel fully without interference from the other circuit, since all cars today use tandem designs. Race cars utilize dual master cylinders, and teams normally bleed all four corners at the same time. I don't have one of those crews at home (or enough 11mm flare wrenches).

Vacuum bleeders don't seem to have any negative effects and can be done with one person, as long as they are watching fluid level in the reservoir!

That said, many people swear by pressure bleeders. I just swear at them, but nobody listens...

Chris

Tedmeister

Installed FI oil cooler and Hotchkis front sway bar yesterday. Changed brake fluid with a cheap vacuum bleeder. Brakes had normal brake feel after each corner was done, but once I was done with the oil cooler installation I had to pump the brake pedal to be able to build pressure to stop car. Must have somehow gotten air in the system. I'll take it to the mechanic today to have it done.

Tedmeister

Turns out there are bleeder valves on the inside and outside calipers.

Swindler

Gonna change the brake fluid in my Z and G pretty soon, gonna try out the motive bleeder, I def haven't done anything like this before so excited to try it out. I haven't changed the fluid in my G at all yet and it's been about 5 years, I don't put toooooo many miles on them but still very embarrassing I never even thought about it before, I didn't know much about cars but I've been trying to learn a lot lately. Anyway, I don't track the car yet I just wanna change out the brake fluid for maintenance. So Motul 600 looks pretty expensive since I don't track, was wondering would valvoline synthetic brake fluid be acceptable? http://m.autozone.com/brake-and-powe...luid/33408_0_0 or should I just get oem fluid? Of course who knows how much oem would be I haven't even looked into it. Also would the high summer temp outside be bad while changing brake fluid or does not not matter unless it's real humid?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Swindler

I was gonna buy the valvoline dot 3-4 synthetic but they didn't have enough at NAPA but the guy told me that if the car doesn't require synthetic then it could be bad for the seals and brakes might go out blah blah blah. But I don't know of anywhere where it would say it is in fact ok to use synthetic I just know I read dot 3. It's cool to use synthetic in our cars though right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TreeSemdyZee

Synthetic is fine.
If we were driving a 70s Jaguar, it might be bad.
I hate going to ANY retail stores anymore.

__________________
Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

Swindler

Thanks! I was pretty sure it was fine but being told something like that is Lame


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rusty

What ever you do DO NOT mix silicone brake fluid with any other brake fluid. You'll be making jelly.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Swindler

Is the oem fluid silicone?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rusty

Thank GOD no. You should use a good DOT4 fluid.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

TreeSemdyZee

A lot on here use Motul synthetic, I put in Amsoil synthetic when I installed my new calipers.
There are quite a few good ones.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

__________________
Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

Swindler

What are some good dot4s that aren't too expensive ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk