I track my car often, every couple of months or so, and I use the Motul 660.
How often should I change the brake fluid if I want to maintain the high boiling point?

I have 2 bottles of Motul I'm not using. That's the top dog for brake fluid....

If you want it you can have for cheap!

Just leave me a good rep :)

I've used Motul 660, Torque RT700, and Endless RF650. Car is on DBA Club Spec 4000 rotors paired with Carbotech XP10 F &R. In addition, I recently added the Z1 BMC brace, which I highly recommend for track guys. Even street users can benefit. Biggest difference is how much less of an effort on the pedal you need to use.

The Motul was alright. Not really the most cost effective/durable option in my experience. AZ is hot as hell. It didn't last more than a few months. It lost its "freshness" so to speak in terms of pedal pressure. The Torque RT700 actually was still clear/gold in color a year ago. Had 3 track days on them and when I flushed the system, it was as black as night.

-Keep in mind, the car was used on the street pretty often as well, but lasted atleast 1 year and a half, which IMO is exceptional considering how fluids break down.

Recently, I switched to Endless RF650 and all the small nuances that I was experiencing with the other two fluids were not occurring. I'll most likely be writing my review in the later months to see how it holds up with street use. On track, its phenomenal. No pressure change during sessions and very consistent.

So far my fluid is sill clear/yellow in color. I changed it October and have had
three track days. There are only about 2000 miles on the car since then. I am going to Sebring again in April. I was also going to change the clutch fluid to the Motel 660, prior to the event. It is still the original factory fluid, from when I bought the car last May.

It only took one session for the OEM fluid to boil for me. It just can't handle the heat.

For now I'll stick with the Motul 660 for the brakes and clutch. I look forward to your review of the RF 650. Just got the FI oil cooler, so I'll be changing all the fluids before the next track day. I don't drive a lot of miles, so if I have to do the fluid changes every 6 months it is not a big deal.

Will do. So far, the combination of the Z1 BMCB and the Endless fluid have been good. I'll have to again follow up in the next few months.

There were some comments advising against using the basic pressure bleeder.
Can these few minutes that the fluid is under pressure really absorb enough moisture to make a difference?

You will hear many different opinions on this, especially from those selling pressure bleeders. The fact is that brake fluid is highly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture eagerly. It is the #1 problem with brake fluid in general.

Pressure bleeders take atmospheric air (which has varying moisture content based on the current humidity) and forces it into the brake fluid. I take great measures to try to avoid anything even close to that. If you have completely dry air or nitrogen available, then I withdraw my objection. Most people don't.

The best way (still) is to bleed brakes it manually, which takes 3 people to do correctly. It's ALWAYS best to bleed front and rear systems at the same time, so the master cylinder piston can travel fully without interference from the other circuit, since all cars today use tandem designs. Race cars utilize dual master cylinders, and teams normally bleed all four corners at the same time. I don't have one of those crews at home (or enough 11mm flare wrenches).

Vacuum bleeders don't seem to have any negative effects and can be done with one person, as long as they are watching fluid level in the reservoir!

That said, many people swear by pressure bleeders. I just swear at them, but nobody listens...

Chris

The black color in your brake fluid is primarily rubber from normal seal wear or an indication of aluminum oxide from master cylinder or caliper wear or corrosion. The better brake fluids will hold these impurities in suspension, rather than be allowed to cause additional abrasive wear, which means they are dark when removed. There is nothing in brake fluid itself that will turn black with time or heat, although it can get darker "yellow" with extreme temperature use.

Chris

Installed FI oil cooler and Hotchkis front sway bar yesterday. Changed brake fluid with a cheap vacuum bleeder. Brakes had normal brake feel after each corner was done, but once I was done with the oil cooler installation I had to pump the brake pedal to be able to build pressure to stop car. Must have somehow gotten air in the system. I'll take it to the mechanic today to have it done.

Turns out there are bleeder valves on the inside and outside calipers.

Gonna change the brake fluid in my Z and G pretty soon, gonna try out the motive bleeder, I def haven't done anything like this before so excited to try it out. I haven't changed the fluid in my G at all yet and it's been about 5 years, I don't put toooooo many miles on them but still very embarrassing I never even thought about it before, I didn't know much about cars but I've been trying to learn a lot lately. Anyway, I don't track the car yet I just wanna change out the brake fluid for maintenance. So Motul 600 looks pretty expensive since I don't track, was wondering would valvoline synthetic brake fluid be acceptable? http://m.autozone.com/brake-and-powe...luid/33408_0_0 or should I just get oem fluid? Of course who knows how much oem would be I haven't even looked into it. Also would the high summer temp outside be bad while changing brake fluid or does not not matter unless it's real humid?


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I was gonna buy the valvoline dot 3-4 synthetic but they didn't have enough at NAPA but the guy told me that if the car doesn't require synthetic then it could be bad for the seals and brakes might go out blah blah blah. But I don't know of anywhere where it would say it is in fact ok to use synthetic I just know I read dot 3. It's cool to use synthetic in our cars though right?


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