H&R Springs Anyone ?

Bster · 04-05-2010, 07:10 AM

Coool... did you get them from a vendor on this forum?

docaam · 04-05-2010, 07:55 AM

kevr6...very nice stance or your car

can you pm me where to get these rear spats from? and offset of your wheels

jmlenz · 04-05-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6

So far I've had no problems. The base is contoured for the spring so I don't feel there will be any movement. This is how my wife's TT rear spring sits. If you leave it in it won't make that much of a difference anyway.

Nice stance Kev...looks pretty similar to the Megan stance. Are you getting any noise/chatter from the rear spring due to the lack of lower rubber seat? Thats what I would be most concerned with.

speedworks · 04-05-2010, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6

Just a few degrees off. The rears wore out quicker then the fronts and my front wear has been ok. The rears were wearing on the inside more. I put new tires on the rear and was able get extremely close to stock specs on the rear! Now to watch the wear!

A few degrees will make a lot of difference. Can you tell me what you were able to get to?

kevr6 · 04-05-2010, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bster

Coool... did you get them from a vendor on this forum?

No, It was a shop on Ebay. Best price at the time!

Quote:

Originally Posted by docaam

kevr6...very nice stance or your car

can you pm me where to get these rear spats from? and offset of your wheels

I know you said PM you but I got the rear kit from VIP Status along with the wheels. I can't make up my mind on the rest of the kit I'm going to use.
My wheel offsets are +10 rear & +15 front.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlenz

Nice stance Kev...looks pretty similar to the Megan stance. Are you getting any noise/chatter from the rear spring due to the lack of lower rubber seat? Thats what I would be most concerned with.

Zero noise!! Very solid feel!! No more of that stiff twist you feel with the Megans. Day three and the ride is getting better. Remember the difference is in mm if left in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedworks

A few degrees will make a lot of difference. Can you tell me what you were able to get to?

True!! Here are the final specs. Notice the front camber slightly off. The left rear was tough also. One adjustment dominoes all the other adjustments. Like chasing your tail. I'm not sure if it's due to using Ichiba links instead of the SPL. All is close enough for me though.

speedworks · 04-05-2010, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6

True!! Here are the final specs. Notice the front camber slightly off. The left rear was tough also. One adjustment dominoes all the other adjustments. Like chasing your tail. I'm not sure if it's due to using Ichiba links instead of the SPL. All is close enough for me though.

Interesting. At least they got the total toe within spec (little effect on steering and some crazy wear). Now, the front camber looks unchanged - this car doesn't have fixed bolts does it? Can it be changed? I am surprised there was no change at all.

kevr6 · 04-05-2010, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedworks

Interesting. At least they got the total toe within spec (little effect on steering and some crazy wear). Now, the front camber looks unchanged - this car doesn't have fixed bolts does it? Can it be changed? I am surprised there was no change at all.

You'd need the adjustable control arms to get it right on the OE spec.
Kinetix Racing 370Z Front Upper Camber A-Arms - performance parts

Mike · 04-05-2010, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6

You'd need the adjustable control arms to get it right on the OE spec.
Kinetix Racing 370Z Front Upper Camber A-Arms - performance parts

you don't want their stuff. GTE in Atlanta is a very reputable alignment shop where most of the racers go and they told me to run, not walk from their products. Eibach has some, but as noted elsewhere, they are made by SPC, which to me means, they must be ok for eibach to rebadge them. I prefer SPL parts though, myself.

kevr6 · 04-05-2010, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

you don't want their stuff. GTE in Atlanta is a very reputable alignment shop where most of the racers go and they told me to run, not walk from their products. Eibach has some, but as noted elsewhere, they are made by SPC, which to me means, they must be ok for eibach to rebadge them. I prefer SPL parts though, myself.

Thanks for the info!! I'm still learning about these cars and available quality products!

Mike · 04-06-2010, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6

Thanks for the info!! I'm still learning about these cars and available quality products!

wish I'd realized your were ATL,, would have like to gone for a ride with the Megans just to see how they are.

jmlenz · 04-06-2010, 06:20 PM

Kev > not to stray too off topic but when you installed the Megans did you set any preload on the rear (not sure if this can be set on front too?). When you reached under the car and grabbed the rear spring could you rattle it or was it solid? How about with the rear jacked up? I can rattle the crap out of mine which leads me to believe the installer set zero preload = noisy rear springs.

azn370z · 04-06-2010, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlenz

Kev > not to stray too off topic but when you installed the Megans did you set any preload on the rear (not sure if this can be set on front too?). When you reached under the car and grabbed the rear spring could you rattle it or was it solid? How about with the rear jacked up? I can rattle the crap out of mine which leads me to believe the installer set zero preload = noisy rear springs.

you need to preload the rears so the springs don't move when the tires are off the ground. You can't and don't need to preload the front.

jmlenz · 04-06-2010, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azn370z

you need to preload the rears so the springs don't move when the tires are off the ground. You can't and don't need to preload the front.

You cant and dont need to preload the fronts because the Megan coilovers dont offer this adjustment/feature or is that with any coilovers for the 370?

azn370z · 04-06-2010, 07:36 PM

You're not supposed to adjust the springs on the fronts. You use the shock to adjust height.

You have to use the rear springs to adjust height. Then you shorten the length of the shocks to add preload.

jmlenz · 04-06-2010, 07:47 PM

Azn370 > got it thanks. So you have the proper amount of preload set and your still getting clunks from the rear huh? Thats a bummer. Im hoping my noises go away after adding preload.

04-05-2010, 07:10 AM	#46 (permalink)
Bster Base Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Singapore Posts: 174 Drives: '09 PW Z34 Manual Rep Power: 16	Coool... did you get them from a vendor on this forum? __________________ TEIN Monoflex with EDFC \| H&R 20mm Spacer \| SPC Rear Camber \| HKS Hi-Power \| Berks High Flow Cat \| Stillen G3 \| EVO R Rear Diffuser \| Blacked out headlights \| Z1 34Row Cooler \| Z1 SS Brake lines

04-05-2010, 07:55 AM	#47 (permalink)
docaam A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Dubai Posts: 2,532 Drives: Z34/240z/Hakosuka Rep Power: 29	kevr6...very nice stance or your car can you pm me where to get these rear spats from? and offset of your wheels __________________ Old 370Z SOLD but not forgotten 370Z 40th, G37s, S30 RBZ, Hakosuka Skyline

04-06-2010, 07:36 PM	#59 (permalink)
azn370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,722 Drives: z34 - R1 Rep Power: 490	You're not supposed to adjust the springs on the fronts. You use the shock to adjust height. You have to use the rear springs to adjust height. Then you shorten the length of the shocks to add preload. __________________ 2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts

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04-06-2010, 06:20 PM	#56 (permalink)
jmlenz Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: San Diego Posts: 645 Drives: a car Rep Power: 643	Kev > not to stray too off topic but when you installed the Megans did you set any preload on the rear (not sure if this can be set on front too?). When you reached under the car and grabbed the rear spring could you rattle it or was it solid? How about with the rear jacked up? I can rattle the crap out of mine which leads me to believe the installer set zero preload = noisy rear springs.

04-06-2010, 07:47 PM	#60 (permalink)
jmlenz Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: San Diego Posts: 645 Drives: a car Rep Power: 643	Azn370 > got it thanks. So you have the proper amount of preload set and your still getting clunks from the rear huh? Thats a bummer. Im hoping my noises go away after adding preload.