I agree that whenever possible, wheels with proper specs should be sourced in order to avoid the use of spacers. However, given that v1 Nismos only come in one size,
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06-23-2022, 12:22 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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I agree that whenever possible, wheels with proper specs should be sourced in order to avoid the use of spacers. However, given that v1 Nismos only come in one size, it's not like OP has a choice.
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06-23-2022, 01:25 PM | #18 (permalink) |
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So, 19x9.5 +40 and 19x10.5 +23 Nismo v1 wheels with stock size rubber. Swifts drop approximately 1". You may see rare rubbing in the front if traversing uneven surfaces at speed if you go with the 15mm spacers. 20mm in the rear will be fine as you have camber arms.Ideal fix would be to get some FUCA. Alternatively, you could go with 10mm in front. Either way, I would go with type I spacers in front and type II in the rear.
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06-23-2022, 03:15 PM | #19 (permalink) | |
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06-23-2022, 07:11 PM | #20 (permalink) | |
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And how spacers affect sizing
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06-23-2022, 07:30 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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Or I could ask for help or hire a mechanic. I don’t need to know how spacers affect sizing. I only want to know which ones are good and what would work best. If you don’t care to help me, thats fine.
Last edited by 2string1; 06-23-2022 at 07:32 PM. |
06-24-2022, 12:16 AM | #22 (permalink) |
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That knowledge would be useful to most. However, OP's history shows that he prefers to be spoon fed.
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06-24-2022, 12:20 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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Spacers on a Nismo
in short: no, bolt on spacers (type 2) will not work on the front. but will work on the back. you probably want 15mm front spacers, you want them to be hub centric. an you will need extended studs the studs can't be extend too much, (15mm = the the spacer width would be best) you can't use super long studs because the washer style lug nuts from Nissan are closed ended (though you could grind off the end if you really wanted super long studs) in the rear 20mm bolt on will be fine. the garageline don't look any different than any other spacer i've seen. i would suggest the easy route if you really need it to be black. mask off the faces and paint the edges. You won't be able to tell the difference. But H&R sells 15mm DRS spacers as well that come black if you are set on it. Last edited by SeeThruHead; 06-24-2022 at 12:35 AM. |
06-24-2022, 06:51 AM | #24 (permalink) | |
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06-24-2022, 07:03 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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I knew I was pushing it with my questions. Useful knowledge to most but not for me. I'm close to 75 years old and chances are I will never want spacers again in my life. I may not even want them now. My wheels and tire sizes are pretty common. So is my suspension. I was hoping someone with the same who has used spacers would enlighten me with their knowledge and real time experiences. Your pics and explanations were very helpful and I thank you for that.
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06-24-2022, 09:03 AM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Billet type 2 spacers, 20mm all around, measured flat, hub centric, OEM 19s Started to develop vibrations over months, constantly checking for looseness, rotated the spacers around, balanced wheels, etc. Upon doing rotors I noticed the surfaces of the rotors had hotspots all around the hub, rotor, wheel. I'm leaning more towards the spacers, I believe either the studs on the spacers were cheap and stretched unevenly over time or the nature of + scrub radius excerting more weight pulls on the studs and deforms the AL over time. I have my doubts being that 20mm of billet AL should be pretty strong to prevent deformations however a stretching stud in this spacer will wreak havoc on the rotating surfaces. It appears that my fix will require new hubs and rotors. |
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