Advice on how to fix rubbing
 

Going to try re-posting this in the correct topic area to hopefully gain more traction...

I just installed Swift springs and some aftermarket wheels. No other suspension mods. I do not want coilovers and I only do commuting and spirited driving with my Z. The front came out perfect. The rear has some negative camber and was tucked in slightly. I added one inch adapter to both sides on the rear and now it is flush to my liking.

Apart from the negative camber in the rear that I want to fix, my rear wheels rub against the wheel well and fender trim on bumps. How can I fix this? As for the rubbing, I was thinking about trimming the inner portion of the fender trim. However, if that doesn't work then I just trimmed it for no reason. My other thought was adding the adjustable koni yellows. Obviously this is more $, but I want to fix the problem correctly. I figured I could raise the back up slightly since they are adjustable.

Will an alignment, some toe bolts, and trimming fix these issues or will the Konis fix everything? Do I need other suspension hardware? Any input or experience is appreciated.

I don't know that koni yellow are going to help you at all.

They have no way of adjust shock length or preload?
What is the 1 inch adapter?

Fixing your negative camber would result in more rubbing no?

You need to reduce your overall suspension travel now that the car is lower.
Or adjust its distribution. So there is less bump travel and more droop travel.
I'm not sure buying koni yellow will help you in any way.

Thanks. I assumed the konis are height adjustable, unless I am understanding their adjustable function incorrectly. I figured adjusting the konis would allow me to ride a little higher or adjust the preload so it doesn't bounce low enough to rub. You are right, though, in that zeroing out my negative camber in the rear would probably make the rubbing situation worse. This is why I really need to fix both issues. The negative camber doesn't bother me as much as the rubbing. The camber looks kinda neat IMO.

The 1inch adapters are for the wheels to stick out enough for it be flush with the body. They're like hubcentric spacers.

The Koni's for are not height adjustable for the Z (at least the rears). The ones I had for my NA Miata years ago were, so I guess it's model specific.

I have the Eibach pro springs on mine. No rubbing at all and I'm using SPL camber arms with an aftermarket cam bolt to get alignment back in spec... Swift Springs must sit lower than Eibach.

Yeah, I think I misunderstood. I see that the damping settings are adjustable. That doesn't correlate to height adjustability. I feel stupid, but a lot of things are starting to make sense. I also feel like I'm kind of screwed.

Another idea I just thought of that may fix the issue is removing the 1inch adapters (which is approximately 25mm) and adding 20mm spacers. It should still be close to flush, but I think that'll fix the rubbing since it won't stick out as much. Then an alignment with some toe bolts should help compensate some of the negative camber. I hope someone can share their thoughts on this idea.

Oh the 1inch adapters are spacers! Ha I did not clue into that. That would help for sure.

You need toe bolts and camber arms for the rear. You spacers are too wide.

Thanks, Spooler. I'm starting to think my spacers may be too wide as well which is causing the issue. What exactly will the camber arms do and do shops carry toe bolts? I'm hoping a shop will be able to advise on the toe bolts once they run an alignment.

You will need at least SPC Toe bolts and SPL camber arms. Both are needed to correct the Camber on the rear. Once you get that done then you can see what spacers you need for better fitment. Do a search and you should be able to see what most folks run on the rear on stock wheels, if that is what you have.

Folks want to lower their car and have their wheels fit a certain way, let's say, aggressively

but they don't wanna do the stuff that will make all of it work


You have a spring/shock combination that is not height adjustable
You have OEM rear suspension that has limited adjustability
You didn't bother telling us your wheel specs so we can have some idea how bad the fit is

I dunno guys, we might be stuck?

:iagree:

Thanks for the details @Spooler and thanks for the confirmation @Rusty.

@OptionZero, see link below so you can see "how bad my fitment is" and specs

http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...ml#post4020204

Short answer is like Spooler and Rusty pointed out, dump your bigass spacer

But since OP didn't bother telling us everything despite asking for help

Here's his wheel setup:
http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/...ml#post4020204

The wheels are Momo Anzio:
https://momo.com/en-us/momo-rf-serie...=M10191165P55#

The available sizes seem wildly inconsistent across websites, with Momo listing them as only available in +55, Vivid not even listing them in 5x114.3, but it looks like GYW has the chart:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1786/2...f1541eeb_c.jpg

You added a 25mm spacer to a +19 offset making your effective offset -6

If this is up to date, this is your current wheel fitment:

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/w...1.12.43-pm.jpg

A few more things you left out. You still have those dumbass Nismo fender trimmings, take those off because the attachment clips are certainly rubbing, they protrude in and actually reduce fitment

Your rears should also be rolled from the factory in light of those clips

In order to clear you will probably need -2 camber, maybe more

Dumping your spacers will probably solve all of your problems

if you want to run aggressive sizes you can't be a baby

Thanks @OptionZero. I still think you can work on your passive aggressive behavior, but thanks lol It's kind of weird that you think I'm purposefully hiding info - I literally added all the specs and pics from that other thread. I try to contribute to this forum as much as I can, but I'm sorry for being such a baby...

I personally like the fender trim, but I get what you're saying which is why I'm thinking of trimming the inner portion. I'm trying to avoid rolling, because it may require body work, but it's still an option.

All that being said, I believe I would still need spacers, though, right? I'm thinking 20mm instead of the 25mm I have on right now.

They should be rolled from the factory

We cant tell you what size spacers will work. You are the only one who can measure

Agree with OZ that you should ditch the Nismo fender flares. They make it difficult to achieve a flush look without rubbing.Change your spacer to a 10mm. You probably won't get into camber spec without camber arms.

They are. All Nismo's are rolled in the rear.

Thanks, everyone. Really appreciate all the feedback. I now know the direction I need to go in. Hope this helps others who are having similar issues!

I still need to install the rear cambers arms and toe bolts (delivered on Fri!), but I was able to use a cut off tool (worked perfectly) to trim off the inner portion of the fender trim. This is a great option for those who like the styling and want to keep it. They really do take up so much space in the wheel well, so if you want any type of proper fitment you will definitely need to either completely remove them or do what I just did and trim them off. I was amazed to see how much more space my tires/wheels have now. I also removed the 25mm spacers...honestly not sure what I was thinking. Lesson learned for sure. Let me know if anyone needs 25mm spacers. I installed 20mm spacers and really dig it. I still haven't test driven the car to make sure it doesn't rub anymore. I did, however, put the car on jack stands, and used the jack to see if it would make contact with any part of the fender under compression. It can get close, but it clears. Again, definitely need to test drive to be certain. I think I will test fit some 15mm spacers while I'm at it, but definitely don't want to go lower than that. I'm just glad and thankful to everyone who gave me advice on finding a solution for this issue. I'll report back again once I get time to install the camber arms and toe bolts AND finally get an alignment. Kind of want to get some FUCAs now too...

Buy the FUCA before the alignment

Why pay for two alignments?