Shock replacement parts list?
 

This is what I was quoted. I'm putting on new OEM front and rear shocks. 44k miles. Should I change these parts along with the new shocks?? I know 44k is not.

E6110-1EA0C Strut $215.63 1 $215.63
E6111-1EA0C Strut $215.63 1 $215.63
54034-JK00A Spring Seat $32.41 2 $64.82
54050-4GE1A Dust Shield $47.64 2 $95.28
54320-1EA0B Strut Mount $99.50 2 $199.00
E6210-1EA1E Shock Absorber $146.11 2 $292.22
55036-AG001 Lower Seat $25.48 2 $50.96
55050-AL500 Upper Seat $59.32 2 $118.64
55240-1EA0B Bumper $48.77 2 $97.54
55320-JK00A Shock Mount $45.50 2 $91.00
55338-1EA0A Shock Mount Seal $42.54 2 $85.08
56219-AL500 Knuckle Bushing $10.84 2 $21.68

Subtotal: $1,547.48
Handling: $2.95
Total: $1,547.48 + Shipping

You certainly don't have to. Why are you even replacing the shocks?

You could upgrade to a better product if you just want to spend money for no reason :tup:

Better in what way? I'm not looking for a stiffer racing-type ride. Just everyday street driving. I'm putting on Swift Spec-R springs "not coilovers." Just want to lower it a little bit for the look. I figured it would be a good time to put new shocks on. Should I change out the parts that are on that list too? I know people are using Koni Yellows but I just don't want to screw with adjustable shocks.

I wouldn’t spend any money on any of that personally. Not at 44k. And not on new shocks either. Just swap your springs. Lots of other things in the car that need that money more!

If you want to throw money away. I'll give you my paypal account.

Just put the springs on. You will need adjustable camber arms and toe bolts for the rear. You will also need FUCA's up front to get your alignment back in spec.

give me $1500 and you can have my OEM nismo springs AND shocks

you need to pay shipping though

alternative, if all you want is a lower ride, pay for my time and ticket and i will cut your springs for you

I got it, springs only. Thanks

Are your wheels stock too? If so, if you lower with lowering springs like Swift Spec R, it's just not going to look right. Front will probably be fine, but the rear will be tucked in. You will need either 25mm spacers or 1in adapters. And then you might start rubbing. I may have some experience lol I would suggest going with Swift Spec R with Koni Yellow Shocks. I think that's what I'm going to do.

he doesn't want to modify his car too much

Most of the parts on your list are unnecessary. The Swift springs are going to lower your ride height and stiffen the ride. You could retain your stock struts/shocks but they are only going to last another 20K-30K miles. Might as well replace them. Koni Yellows will run you around the same as a new set of OEM struts/shocks (at the prices you've listed). For that matter, you could just spend an extra $100 or so and pick up a set of Powertrix Sport Street coilovers. That way you can dial in your ride height exactly as you desire. I imagine that would appeal to you since you seem to be all kinds of anal about your Z.

Depending on how much you want to lower your ride height, you may need other supporting mods if you want your tires to last. You may need one or more of the following to remain close to alignment specs: wheel spacers, rear camber arms, rear toe bolts, front upper control arms.

he doesn't wanna modify his car that much!

He's asking about Swift Spec-R springs and new OEM struts/shocks so, at a minimum, we're talking about those components. All the other supporting mods are only necessary if he drops his ride height a certain amount.

This is the drop the Swift springs give. I'll let them settle for a couple of weeks and have the car aligned. It shouldn't be off to much. Some Z's don't require the rear camber arms at all and some do.. We'll see.
Drop (Front): -1.2 inches
Drop (Rear): -1.0 inches

You will be one of the few lucky ones if you can get away without buying new arms. That is, if you are generally concerned with tire wear. My car feels much more planted in the corners than before, but the camber numbers are still out of range even after the alignment. Knowing how expensive decent rubber is for the car, I did not hesitate buying the SPL front and rear pieces, especially at the great cost that I paid 3rd party. It's not a necessity if you are casually putting 3k miles/year on your car (tires will likely age faster than the miles will wear them down), but if the car is a commuter or auto-x/track warrior, then the importance is more stated. As for struts and shocks, I've been impressed with Koni's performance and reliability over the years that I've used them. The dampening adjustability is a bonus. They say the OE shocks work alright with the Swift Spec-R's, but honesty, I don't expect much longevity out of them.

Bottom line is that It's your car. Spend your money as you see fit. So far, your vision has come along nicely.

I understand SPL is good stuff, but is it good because it has better adjusting capability or is it just made from better materials or both? Do I really need titanium quality? There are less expensive choices out there. Thanks for your kind words.

Adjustment on car
More secure locking mechanism that’s easier for your alignment tech
Better materials
Better QC
better customer service

See OZ's prior response, as he covered it all. Some have gone with SPC or Z1 rear arms, and for street cars, that may be just fine. Those options are indeed less expensive. That said, after handling the SPL parts while I installed them on my car, I feel really good about my purchase. They are solid.

You and I probably share the same driving habits. Do we need titaniun strength? Probably not, but it won't hurt if you go that route.

OZ has repeated himself so many times over the years, he should just have that response copy and pasted on a word document lol. Or just sticky it somehow.

I'll add my 2 cents from a different angle.

The arms' job is to hold the wheel in a specific angle and arc of movement. Any of them failing results in a catastrophic lost of control.

We've seen SPC rear arm snapped in half on track. Possibly due to the old design...or maybe impurity in the metal....or both....who knows? But "I don't track the car, so I should be fine" argument really isn't a black and white thing....it really depends on your risk tolerance.

Street driving can be equally harsh in case of an accident. Lose control, wheel hitting the curb at a weird angle, that can snap an arm. Seen those Cars N Coffee videos where guys show off, spin out, wheel bang on the curb, then the said wheel point at an angle that's all wrong, ripping out unknown amount of things with it...? So what would've been at most a bent wheel, now add thousands of dollars of bodywork and a tow fee.

On the other hand, I've seen a car losing it, jumped the center median and landed on sidewalk, and an alignment check immediately after reveal no adjustment needed whatsoever. This was a car with SPL arms.

It's ok to choose other options, odd is even the cheapest knockoffs of knockoffs are fine, just don't think for a second that only track driving benefits from the superior arm.

I would expect that street driving is harsher on something like an arm. Tracks are generally a lot smoother than your average city street. A couple decent sized potholes and a poorly made arm is toast.

I have the swift lowering springs, the SPL billet arms, lockout, toe bolts and Koni Yellows on the way. Going to see how the alignment goes before I decide on the front control arms. I didn't want to go with the BC coilovers because the description says a minimum of over 2" lowering. I don't want to go that low. The Vermont roads are terrible. Thanks to all of you for you wisdom and help and a big thanks to Alex Santamaria, Alliance Racing for setting me up with the parts.

Have you seen or driven COTA lately and how about those the love hopping apex curbs?

Put my Z up on a curb back in Dec. Bent wheel and bumper/fender damage. Thankfully no damage to my SPL FUCAs. Secured the bumper and drove it home from the incident without issue. A similar accident could have easily broken the OEM arms.

Yikes.

The Doran Racing guy's word stuck with me. A suspension arm should not break. I know I know, everything has a limit. But I'll rather buy the highest form of insurance possible (that I can afford).

My alignment guy loves those arms

As much as I would like to track my car regularly... I don't. I bought SPL for reliability for the long haul. Would love to be able to drive it across the country and hit the track(s) on the way. Rather not worry about parts breaking at 10+ yrs and 100K+ miles on those trips.