I understand SPL is good stuff, but is it good because it has better adjusting capability or is it just made from better materials or both? Do I really need titanium quality? There are less expensive choices out there. Thanks for your kind words.

Adjustment on car
More secure locking mechanism that’s easier for your alignment tech
Better materials
Better QC
better customer service

See OZ's prior response, as he covered it all. Some have gone with SPC or Z1 rear arms, and for street cars, that may be just fine. Those options are indeed less expensive. That said, after handling the SPL parts while I installed them on my car, I feel really good about my purchase. They are solid.

You and I probably share the same driving habits. Do we need titaniun strength? Probably not, but it won't hurt if you go that route.

OZ has repeated himself so many times over the years, he should just have that response copy and pasted on a word document lol. Or just sticky it somehow.

I'll add my 2 cents from a different angle.

The arms' job is to hold the wheel in a specific angle and arc of movement. Any of them failing results in a catastrophic lost of control.

We've seen SPC rear arm snapped in half on track. Possibly due to the old design...or maybe impurity in the metal....or both....who knows? But "I don't track the car, so I should be fine" argument really isn't a black and white thing....it really depends on your risk tolerance.

Street driving can be equally harsh in case of an accident. Lose control, wheel hitting the curb at a weird angle, that can snap an arm. Seen those Cars N Coffee videos where guys show off, spin out, wheel bang on the curb, then the said wheel point at an angle that's all wrong, ripping out unknown amount of things with it...? So what would've been at most a bent wheel, now add thousands of dollars of bodywork and a tow fee.

On the other hand, I've seen a car losing it, jumped the center median and landed on sidewalk, and an alignment check immediately after reveal no adjustment needed whatsoever. This was a car with SPL arms.

It's ok to choose other options, odd is even the cheapest knockoffs of knockoffs are fine, just don't think for a second that only track driving benefits from the superior arm.

I would expect that street driving is harsher on something like an arm. Tracks are generally a lot smoother than your average city street. A couple decent sized potholes and a poorly made arm is toast.

I have the swift lowering springs, the SPL billet arms, lockout, toe bolts and Koni Yellows on the way. Going to see how the alignment goes before I decide on the front control arms. I didn't want to go with the BC coilovers because the description says a minimum of over 2" lowering. I don't want to go that low. The Vermont roads are terrible. Thanks to all of you for you wisdom and help and a big thanks to Alex Santamaria, Alliance Racing for setting me up with the parts.

Have you seen or driven COTA lately and how about those the love hopping apex curbs?

Put my Z up on a curb back in Dec. Bent wheel and bumper/fender damage. Thankfully no damage to my SPL FUCAs. Secured the bumper and drove it home from the incident without issue. A similar accident could have easily broken the OEM arms.

Yikes.

The Doran Racing guy's word stuck with me. A suspension arm should not break. I know I know, everything has a limit. But I'll rather buy the highest form of insurance possible (that I can afford).

My alignment guy loves those arms

As much as I would like to track my car regularly... I don't. I bought SPL for reliability for the long haul. Would love to be able to drive it across the country and hit the track(s) on the way. Rather not worry about parts breaking at 10+ yrs and 100K+ miles on those trips.