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Lock up and ice mode

Thought I had this beat by disconnecting the yaw sensor but it’s bad worse than ever. Ultimately it comes down the sudden switch from 100% throttle to 100% brake. I

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Old 08-04-2021, 01:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Lock up and ice mode

Thought I had this beat by disconnecting the yaw sensor but it’s bad worse than ever. Ultimately it comes down the sudden switch from 100% throttle to 100% brake. I only experienced it once on track at a hairpin when I came in a bit hot. But autocross varies greatly from course to course. This weekends course had a loop where at one end I would get lock up as in no ABS and then ice mode at the opposite end. Considering pulling the ABS fuse but next course might not cause these issues. Anyone else still fighting this? Anyone found a solution?
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Old 08-04-2021, 08:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Evildky View Post
Thought I had this beat by disconnecting the yaw sensor but it’s bad worse than ever. Ultimately it comes down the sudden switch from 100% throttle to 100% brake. I only experienced it once on track at a hairpin when I came in a bit hot. But autocross varies greatly from course to course. This weekends course had a loop where at one end I would get lock up as in no ABS and then ice mode at the opposite end. Considering pulling the ABS fuse but next course might not cause these issues. Anyone else still fighting this? Anyone found a solution?
I had it happen the first time my last track day. Unfortunately this doesn’t seem to be an only 370z issue. My buddy would have it happen a lot in is bmw m3 and no one could disable it without disabling the entire abs system. He looked for years for anyone coding it out etc etc and I think we’re gonna be in the same boat. You’ll either get all the functions or nothing. He’s now on a full race Vette with an aftermarket abs unit for racing and it’s simply amazing according to him. it’s too bad software tuners haven’t looked into cracking the abs modules on vehicles to just code out ice mode because no one likes it on here or the bmw forums or the corvette forums and it’s really a stupid feature that’s potentially more dangerous. How many times are people really taking there 370z, corvette, m3 etc etc. to ice conditions and if anything every ar has an outside temp sensor on them nowadays so bus that data to the abs module and if it’s 85 degrees out it’s highly unlikely I’ll be hitting ice.
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Old 08-04-2021, 09:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There is an upgrade for that, but it is not cheap. Hotrodz is having it done.
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Old 08-05-2021, 10:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Unfortunately the aftermarket solutions aren't legal for the classes I run.
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Old 08-05-2021, 02:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I remember Robert Mitchel said he got ice mode even in a 675LT (or Senna, forgot) on Nurburgring. Hyper cars run into the some of the same issues we do when getting abused on track. I don’t feel so bad about what my Z can’t do anymore haha.
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Old 08-05-2021, 05:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I never had this issue with my 350Z, I can't imagine the abs systems are that different, but maybe they are. It also would be nice if it were either ice mode or full no ABS lockup, the fact that I get two different issues makes it harder to nail down. Thinking this Nismo pro 1.5 way is part of the problem. looking for a good used 3.692 diff to build with a wavetrac.
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Old 08-05-2021, 07:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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While I don't agree that 'icemode' is an actual programmed function in the ABS, I have no proof behind the statement.. I just call it a malfunction. After I wrecked my 350Z on track due to this malfunction, I ripped it out and piped in a proportioning valve for the rears. I could never trust the car again with OEM ABS in there.
Been running without it since (7 years now).

Good luck!
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Old 08-05-2021, 07:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ice mode has been talked about a number of times here over the years. It seems like some Z's get it, and some do not. It's hit or miss with who gets it or don't.
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Old 08-07-2021, 01:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by thekinn View Post
I ripped it out and piped in a proportioning valve for the rears. I could never trust the car again with OEM ABS in there.
Been running without it since (7 years now).

Good luck!
I just searched the DIY for proportioning valve and nothing came up. I'm interested to know what's involved for adding one to the rears.
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Old 08-08-2021, 02:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I just searched the DIY for proportioning valve and nothing came up. I'm interested to know what's involved for adding one to the rears.
Try google, this is a universal type thing, not chassis specific. Basically it's a valve you place inline on the brake tube going to the rear, it's got a know you use to reduce the amount of pressure that get through. It's commonly needed on older cars that are retrofitted wiht better brakes to get the brake bias to a minable level. race cars often have separate masters for front and rear and adjust bias by moving the fulcrum that the pedal pushes back and forth between the two masters.
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Old 08-08-2021, 06:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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.. and budget hobby race cars bypass the ABS by splitting the two outputs from the OEM master cylinder (MC). One output from MC splits to both front hard lines, the other output from MC first goes through a proportioning valve (wilwood), then splits to the two rear hard lines. Oh yeah, split the ABS unit in half. Get rid of the plumbing part, keep the electrical part.

Now, this doesn't look pretty.. but it works for me.

*Here's a link to the write-up on my350 - https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...bs-delete.html
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ABS(1).JPG (78.6 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg ABS(2).JPG (146.2 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg ABS(3).JPG (95.4 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg ABS(4).JPG (130.2 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg ABS(5).JPG (99.9 KB, 20 views)
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Old 08-06-2021, 10:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I didn't get at all until I started getting faster and adding aero and other mods. It is not an issue with the rear diff unless your lashing needs adjustment. I got mine with a Wavetrac and Nismo 3.69 gears. The issue is common to street cars that turned into track cars. Street cars are designed to function under track conditions. I have done a lot of research and talking with other Z track day goers and many just remove the system altogether or do a proportional setup as started above.

Most recently it seems that several Z track goers are doing a BMW MK60 ABS system swap. It is not cheap but not hugely expensive compared to a big brake kit. About 3k or so will get you there by competent shop. If you want a full blown race setup you can spend 10 to 12k on a Motorsports ABS system upgrade. My setup will be a hybrid of the two as I am adding the Motorsports controller to my system for better adjustability and tuning. Dang thing has like ten settings that can changed on the fly. According to my installer by adding the Motorsports controller to the MK60 it will bring its functionality to 90% or better of the Motorsports system. The total cost will be around 5 or 6k to me.

Austin Hertel who sometimes frequents the forum just installed the MK60 system in his Z and is racing this weekend at Gingerman Raceway in Gridlife Touring Cup. Find and follow him on Instagram as he will be doing a full review next week. The guy is incredibly fast and knowledgeable about the Z. He does all his own wrenching and has been a great resource to me and others.

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Old 08-06-2021, 10:30 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I have seen it happen to people with Zs, but I've never had it happen to me. I still ended up installing a kill switch for the yaw sensor, which helps with braking on turn in. It feels more natural.
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Old 08-06-2021, 10:42 AM   #14 (permalink)
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To be clear I have two separate issues, likely with different causes.

The ABS failure/full lockup I feel might possibly be due to the diff. The Nismo pro 1.5 is damn near full lock up all the damned time. it's quite obnoxious. I THINK that under hard sudden braking in a straight line the rear is locked so the two rear wheel speed sensors are in sync, the resulting nose dive lightening the rear and the fronts getting the majority of braking force need only lock in sync for a millisecond for the abs to think all for wheels are stopped and not engage their pulses. Pure theory, didn't have this issue before the diff swap, stiffer springs might aid in reduced weight transfer, my suspension woes are another topic all together.

The "ice mode" issue, i did have before the diff swap, though disconnecting the yaw sensor had fixed it, it didn't. The MK60 swap again is not legal for the classes I compete in. Might not be a real performance advantage over a correctly working stock unit but I sleep better knowing I play by the rules.
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Old 08-06-2021, 11:00 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I don't think anyone is suggesting you cheat but just providing information for all that have similar issues. I don't AX so I have little knowledge of the rules.

I think you should work with someone that knows how to set up the gears and lash if you are having issues with your diff not performing well. Also, what diff fluid and weight are you using, it can make a difference.

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