Nissan 370Z Forum - Cracks in rotors

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)

- Brakes & Suspension (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/)

- - Cracks in rotors (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/136412-cracks-rotors.html)

Ok so why would you ever engage any braking method after hot lapping? Just stop it on a flat surface or chock the wheels?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 4003349)

Ok so why would you ever engage any braking method after hot lapping? Just stop it on a flat surface or chock the wheels?

Many do. Or just leave in first, or in park.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty (Post 4003354)

many do. Or just leave in first, carry a brick for a tire chock, or put it in park.

fify

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4003347)

Never apply the e-brake after coming off the track and parking. The e-brake shoes can stick the their drum.

For the record, this is what the Nissan rep instructed me to do at the Nissan Performance Academy at COTA years ago. He said find a flat spot (make sure car isn't rolling in N) and then lightly apply the e-brake :ugh:

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 4003386)

I've had a couple of instructors tell me not to use the e-brakes. There are a couple of different opinions it.

Opinions are like aholes... plenty of 'em around here. :D

I have never heard anyone at any HPDE, OTD, Race, say 'use the e-brake' when you park.
Unless you want to chisel your e-brake pads off the drum or call a tow truck..
drifting off topic..

Getting back on topic....

Definitely replace, and start monitoring rotor temps so you can figure out if ducting or better rotors are necessary.

Being able to run OEM style rotors is awesome (on the wallet) if you can make them work, because even the cheapest 2 piece rotor's rings are more than a set of Centric premiums.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4003176)

Your rotors are toast. You got cracks in the drilled holes. You should know better then to track with drilled rotors. :shakes head: They always start to crack at the holes.

I known now, I young and foolish

Quote:

Originally Posted by danegrey (Post 4003423)

I known now, I young and foolish

Learning the hard way gets $$$$

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4003176)

Your rotors are toast. You got cracks in the drilled holes. You should know better then to track with drilled rotors. :shakes head: They always start to crack at the holes.

Same could be said about removing the steering lock fuse. Fact of the matter is no one listens then wants to complain and send out an SOS when it all goes south. :shakes head:

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkJak (Post 4003341)

I avoid applying the E brake with my 7AT. Rear rotors get to 650F after cool down and the hat piece is right next to it, which is where the drum brakes are, too.
I have no idea how hot the stock drum pads can get before fusing but have always heard to not use the e-brake after getting off the track.

The 7AT has a parking pawl that locks so you get a transmission brake which has no chance of fusing due to heat.

That said, I don't move my car after it's parked either. Nor do I do it with my E36, which gets almost to just 100F less on rotor temps. While I worry a bit on uneven cooling due to the caliper trapping more heat, it hasn't been enough to crack a rotor.

I wouldn't keep my foot on the brake neither. I don't even do so on the street as you can see where the marcel builds up on the rotor which causes shuddering etc. that will then be diagnosed as warpage by someone trying to sell you parts. Can simply have the rotors turned to remove the marcel as long as they are within the service limits.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tractionless (Post 4003794)

Marcell? :wtf: What's hair have to do with it. :confused: Think you mean material.