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-   -   Would like some advice on brakes and rotors (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/136367-would-like-some-advice-brakes-rotors.html)

Rusty 07-15-2021 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tractionless (Post 4002778)
Curious to know if you're flushing and refilling that Motul yearly as suggested on the label. I've seen data demonstrating Motul attracts water at a much higher rate than other fluids and is why I chose Castrol SRF.

I used to use Motul in road racing motorcycles and noticed a softer lever as well as fade until changing to ATE.

Since I track. I'm now using Castrol SRF. I flush once a year. Both the brakes and clutch. When I was doing trackdays with the bike. I was using ATE until they changed it. Then I switched to Motul 660. My VRF has Castrol SRF in it now because of the Z. Plus my Power Wagon has Castrol SRF too.

ZoomZ 07-16-2021 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tractionless (Post 4002777)
Ease of swapping depends on whether you change them correctly or just dump new pads in. Also consider every time you change pads you'll have to wait for them to re-bed to your worn in rotors which equals less stopping power. Additionally, slotted rotors make the pads dust more.

On a pure street car like both of our are I prefer to drive it and not work on it, clean it etc. and is why I made my original suggestions. ;)

I think he means changing the pads when they are worn, not for the sake of trying out different pads. In that case, bedding will always be required with REPLACED pads.

As I said before, 3000km on ST slotted rotors, and the dust is no more or less than the stock pads/blank rotors.

I'll report on pad wear or damage next brake pad change.

ZoomZ 07-16-2021 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4002794)
Since I track. I'm now using Castrol SRF. I flush once a year. Both the brakes and clutch. When I was doing trackdays with the bike. I was using ATE until they changed it. Then I switched to Motul 660. My VRF has Castrol SRF in it now because of the Z. Plus my Power Wagon has Castrol SRF too.

Is this the same:

https://www.baysideperformance.ca/ca...-fluid-1-liter

Hotrodz 07-16-2021 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4002794)
Since I track. I'm now using Castrol SRF. I flush once a year. Both the brakes and clutch. When I was doing trackdays with the bike. I was using ATE until they changed it. Then I switched to Motul 660. My VRF has Castrol SRF in it now because of the Z. Plus my Power Wagon has Castrol SRF too.

Castro SRF FTW! like Rusty I have been using it for years and is used by many track goers. I change it out yearly as well but it really is overkill. I have yet to see a change in performance or color. I know some track guys that don't change it for up to five years. It is the real deal and provides additional brake and clutch feel.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Rusty 07-16-2021 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ (Post 4002887)

Yep. Boy has it gone up in price. :eek:

ZoomZ 07-17-2021 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4002901)
Yep. Boy has it gone up in price. :eek:

It must be Unicorn blood! :rofl2: ($97 USD :icon14:)

Well the RBF 600 works out to $40-45 CDN for a litre in my neck of the woods. That's an engine oil change, just to put things into perspective.

zz

Rusty 07-17-2021 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ (Post 4002999)
It must be Unicorn blood! :rofl2: ($97 USD :icon14:)

Well the RBF 600 works out to $40-45 CDN for a litre in my neck of the woods. That's an engine oil change, just to put things into perspective.

zz

The last time I bought Castrol. It was $79.00 USD a liter.

tRidiot 07-17-2021 02:14 PM

Well, I bought the R1 Concepts eLine set. I am sure it's not the best out there, but it was a decent compromise between price, looks and performance - read a bit on some other fora about how they hold up, didn't see anyone here using them. I've got other projects I need to pay for, too.

Rusty 07-17-2021 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ (Post 4002999)
It must be Unicorn blood! :rofl2: ($97 USD :icon14:)

Well the RBF 600 works out to $40-45 CDN for a litre in my neck of the woods. That's an engine oil change, just to put things into perspective.

zz

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4003003)
The last time I bought Castrol. It was $79.00 USD a liter.

Just found it on Amazon for $59.99. :tup:

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-SRF-R...a-600437179594

JARblue 07-18-2021 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4003023)
Just found it on Amazon for $59.99. :tup:

Good ol' Amazon... notice the 12 pk is $120 more than buying 12x single bottles :icon14:

cv129 07-18-2021 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4003023)
Just found it on Amazon for $59.99. :tup:

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-SRF-R...a-600437179594

But choose the seller wisely. On Amazon, one never knows if these good deals are legit or for rebranded/counterfeit/fake/imitation stuff.

In this case, lowest price seller (HRP/Power Oil Center) looks legit, but the
HRP also sells the exact same thing for $69.99. Maybe the $59.99 is for bottles of older stock (shouldn’t matter since it’s sealed).

Click on “other sellers on Amazon”, scroll down and you’ll find what I am referring to.

ZoomZ 07-18-2021 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cv129 (Post 4003096)
But choose the seller wisely. On Amazon, one never knows if these good deals are legit or for rebranded/counterfeit/fake/imitation stuff.

In this case, lowest price seller (HRP/Power Oil Center) looks legit, but the
HRP also sells the exact same thing for $69.99. Maybe the $59.99 is for bottles of older stock (shouldn’t matter since it’s sealed).

Click on “other sellers on Amazon”, scroll down and you’ll find what I am referring to.

Yes, I was goign to mention this. ALWAYS see "sold by". If there's Diapers and light switches in their inventory, watch out! :yum:

Tractionless 07-22-2021 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4002794)
Since I track. I'm now using Castrol SRF. I flush once a year. Both the brakes and clutch. When I was doing trackdays with the bike. I was using ATE until they changed it. Then I switched to Motul 660. My VRF has Castrol SRF in it now because of the Z. Plus my Power Wagon has Castrol SRF too.

Gotcha. Using SRF on the street due to the inherent nature of the Motul to absorb water. Used Motul on road racing motorcycles and noticed a mushy lever feel so I switched to ATE blue which never had an issue. Had to bleed the hell outta Motul during normal use. That was over 6 years ago. What has ATE changed since, other than no longer using blue color?

Tractionless 07-22-2021 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ (Post 4002883)
I think he means changing the pads when they are worn, not for the sake of trying out different pads. In that case, bedding will always be required with REPLACED pads.

As I said before, 3000km on ST slotted rotors, and the dust is no more or less than the stock pads/blank rotors.

I'll report on pad wear or damage next brake pad change.

Changing pads when worn still requires resurfacing rotors if reusing or swapping them out or braking power will be greatly diminished until the pads conform to the wear on the rotor face. If changing pad marcel type you may never realize their full potential when re-using rotors.

I've used slotted rotors in the past and experience much more dust.

Tractionless 07-22-2021 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 4002899)
Castro SRF FTW! like Rusty I have been using it for years and is used by many track goers. I change it out yearly as well but it really is overkill. I have yet to see a change in performance or color. I know some track guys that don't change it for up to five years. It is the real deal and provides additional brake and clutch feel.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I respect that you change yearly with track use, cheap peace of mind!
Have you ever tested the fluid prior to flushing? If so I'm curious to the water %.

I use test strips and an electronic tester to determine when a flush is needed for my street car. Do the same for coolant. No reason to change either if they're still within the proper parameters.


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