Clarification needed on camber kit requirement

Ralphatron

Whats up guys,

I tried searching for this and found a few threads with similar discussion but it's still extremely unclear to me.

For a Z that's dropped about 1.5 inches in the rear and is showing visible negative camber, I believe will need adjustable camber arms like these Z1 camber arms.

What I'm unclear on is if I ALSO need to purchase aftermarket eccentric bolts like these SPC camber bolts.

The description says something needs to be filed down with a rotary tool, and I find it hard to believe that this much modification is needed just to get the rear camber in spec.

I'm hoping I can get away with JUST the camber arms on a car that's only lowered 1.5 inches instead of ALSO getting the aftermarket eccentric bolts that apparently require permanently removing material from the car but everything I've found when searching doesn't really clarify this.

POS VETT

Wider-range eccentric/cam bolts are not needed when adjustable arms already used.

Ralphatron

oh perfect, thanks for the input!

Now, can someone tell me if there's a difference between the z1 arms and the spc arms? It looks like the SPC arms are angled a bit vs the z1 arms being straight, and, correct me if I'm wrong, but these arms can also be used to replace the spring bucket perch for greater toe adjustment?

thanks guys

Ralphatron

I realized this sounded stupid. I guess my question was does the angled design on the spc arms offer more adjustment or is it just aesthetic?

I ended up going with the z1 camber arms, and I learned that traction arms are used for extra toe adjustment but its adjusted with the spring perch eccentric bolts or in the case of true rear struts, the perch can be replaced with toe arms.

And those of you that recognize me from the other thread about sway bars... even though taking off the rear sway helped the darting and tramlining, I'm still getting it quite a bit and can only attribute it to my alignment being badly off. Finally going to get it done this week so I'll report back.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me out!

OptionZero

don't get either.

Get SPL. Millions of threads explaining why, but there are better in every
way

Rear camber is adjusted with an eccentric bolt BUT those have limited adjustment range AND are prone to slippage.

That is why alignment is CORRECTLY done with an adjustable arm - a QUALITY adjustable arm that is easy to adjust for your tech and will lock in place and also not break.

When you have the adjustable arm, you want to ELIMINATE the eccentric bolt entirely with whats called a LOCKOUT kit, which is . . . a bolt that will not spin. That is to ensure that your alignment does not fall out of spec when an eccentric bolts slips

Summary:
Camber is rarely the problem, it's toe. All suspension components work together
Adjust with arm, not bolt
Get the SPL arms (all of the rear ones)
Eliminate the eccentric bolt with the SPL lockout kit

Never worry again

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AlWakRa

If you are not getting SPL Mid Link, you need to use your toe bolt for adjustments, but it may be useless, because you are changing the adjustment range by lowering the car, so you may reach a point were the minimum value is not what it should be.

To clarify, lets say on stock height it goes from -0.10 to +0.20 degree, after the drop it only goes between 0.15 to 0.45, it is only an example, camber adjustment also changes this range. SPC toe bolt can do the trick but it is prone to slippage, unlike SPL arm.

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Rusty

The SPC arms have been known to break.

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redondoaveb

I believe he was talking about the spc toe bolts which I need to install because the spl camber arms alone wouldn't bring my camber into spec without throwing the toe out of spec.

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750whp/700ft.lbs

Ralphatron

Just curious how low you are to have your camber that out of spec that adjusting it would throw the toe out of spec?

I just got the z1 camber arms but haven't put them on yet, my rear height is above 26" from the ground to to center point of the fender wall which imo is nothing crazy. Visible negative camber is almost barely noticeable. Planning to get my alignment done this weekend, but now I'm worried I'll need the aftermarket toe bolts to keep it in spec.

Also, z1 instructions say to put RED threadlocker on which comes with the arms, but that sounds like a terrible idea because wouldn't this prevent future adjustments to be made during alignments? If I use the blue threadlocker during installation instead, will that allow the alignment tech to adjust it as needed and then secure the threads again?

redondoaveb

I'm at 27" and rear camber is -2.25. That was the best they could do without screwing up the toe. I want my rear camber less than -2.00. Depending on what you want your rear camber, you may not need the toe bolts.

I can't comment on the Z1 arms, I've got SPL but red loctite doesn't sound like a good idea

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
750whp/700ft.lbs